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Power cord was cut
I removed the 5/16 inch hex head nuts holding the rear access panel where the power cord was connected. Once removed, I released the Molex plug and ground wire. I connected the new cord, screwed in the ground and installed the rear panel. Having the exact OEM part made the job quick and easy.
Fridge side not cold when freezer is blasting cold
I knew it was either the thermostat or defrost control board. Checked resistance with multimeter across the thermostat and heater element. Both check out ok so I replaced the board and all is good. Board on my model was in the controls panel.
1 - Look at the schematic for the "Fountain" on Partselect.com 2 -Order the ice chute door and seal (seal is rubber and eventually it will stop sealing - while you are in there go ahead and change it) 3 - Unplug the refrigerator then remove the sump tray by pulling it straight out from the door 4 - Unscrew the two screws hidden behind the sump tray - hold the dispenser front housing in place so it doesn't drop downward - after removing the two screws slide the dispenser front housing downward while pressing it against the refrigerator door - there are two clips on the back of the housing that hold it against the refrigerator door 5 - Gently pull the dispenser front housing out of the refrigerator door an inch or two - you will be able to see the electrical connections between the dispenser front housing and the refrigerator. 6 - Continue pulling out the dispenser front housing until you can reach the multi-wire connector on the left - the connector is held together by a clip on the bottom center - squeeze the clip at the end closest to the wires to release it - gently pull the connector off 7 - In the center of the back of the dispenser front housing is a black plastic box (the limit switch) - again, gently pull it away from the two clips holing it on 8 - Set the dispenser front housing aside 9 - Slip the water hose out of the clips holding to to the chute 10 - Unscrew the three screws holding the chute to the door (two on the left and one on the upper right - Slide the chute out of the door 11 - Hold the door hinge so you don't accidentally break it (personal experience) and unclip the top then the bottom of the ice cube door from the hinge (the ice chute seal and ice chute door insulation are attached to the ice cube door - take all three out at the same time) 12 - Slip the ice chute seal off of the ice cube door - pull the ice chute door insulation out of the ice cube door 13 - Put the ice chute door insulation into the new ice chute door - Slip the ice chute seal onto the ice cube door (the schematic will give you the proper orientation for all of the parts) 14 - Again holding the door hinge - slip the two "L" shaped clips onto the bottom of the ice chute door - rotate the ice chute door assembly and snap (gently) the two side clips into place over the opening in the door hinge 15 - Breath a breath of relief if you didn't break anything 16 - Slide the chute assembly over the white pin on the lower right of the refrigerator opening that accepts the chute 17 - Replace the three screws that hold the chute assembly to the door - replace the water line 18 - Clip the limit switch onto the back of the dispenser front housing 19 - run the multi-wire connector behind the water line - connect it to the back of the dispenser front housing 20 - Slip the wires back into the clips along the sides of the opening in the refrigerate door 21 - Rest the dispenser front housing on the bottom of the door opening - it must fit flush to the door (top, bottom and sides) - Slide it gently upward until it stops - replace the two screws at the bottom rear of the dispenser front housing - slide the sump tray back in place 22 - Plug in the refrigerator 23 - Dispense ice cubes into a high ball glass and enjoy a job well done
remove front grill. with pry bar and wooden block, elevate side with broken wheel and insert wooden block behind assemble from the exterior bottom. With roller wheel assemble lose from the wooden block remove front elevator screw from the front frame. next remove cotter pin with the pliers and pull assemble pin. next elevate assemble out. drill out axle on the crimp side insert from the hardware store one 5/16 x 21/2 bolt with nut and new wheel. reinsert assemble in the reverse order. Remove wooden block and adjust height of wheel. replace grill. job complete. good job
Freezer too Cold. Evap fan would not stop running.
Inside top left of frig, remove outer panel by 1st removing freezer and frig temp control knobs by pulling out fwd, then, remove socket screw. Once inside, gently remove styrofoam cover at back. Locate freezer control which is behind where the freezer temp control knob was located. Unhook ground and two wires with hand or needle nose pliers. Work part out of base along with long wire with bulb on the end which is inserted at back of frig in small whole. Replace with new therm. Bright light is helpful. Turn power off.
The plastic wheel broke in half at the right front of the refrigerator.
The good news is that the part (the wheel was available.) I bought two in the event that the other wheel may break in the future. The bad news is that the housing that holds the wheel was riveted together by the wheel axle. It would have been nice to know that before I bought the part and if the housing with the wheel installed was available. The refrigerator was at my summer house a hundred miles away. Anyway, we had to grind the end of the riveted axle to dislodge it from the wheel housing. With the axle dislodged from the housing we were able to install the wheel and then hammer the end of the axle flat to keep in place, like the original rivet installation. It is not perfect but it held and should be fine. I am glad I was able to get the part and will be back in the future, if in need of other parts.
Took the front panel off,replaced the parts inside on the door ,Replaced the panel ,Tested Now found out that it is the solniod that is bad ,Part on order ,Thanks
Ice maker eitehr wouldn't make ice, or made odd shaped cubes
First, I shut off the water going to the refrigerator, then removed the ice bin. Then I loosened the two screws on the top of the ice maker (the one toward the front was a little tricky, since you can't see it at all), then removed the screw that fastens the lower bracket to the side of the frig. Then I lifted up on it slightly to remove it from the two upper screws, then unplugged the wiring harness from the side of the refrigerator and lifted the whole unit out of the frig.
I then removed the plastic cover on the front of the ice maker, pressed on the tab to remove the wiring harness from the old ice maker, and installed it on the new ice maker. I then removed the metal arm from the old ice maker and installed it on the new unit as well. The last part that I moved from the old ice maker to the new one was the lower bracket, as the bracket on the new ice maker was bent during shipping.
Once those parts were swapped, I put the plastic cover on the new ice maker, plugged the wiring harness back into the side of the frig, routed the fill tube into the back on the ice maker assembly, and set the unit back on the two upper screws. I then put the screw back in the lower bracket, tightened the two upper screws, and then put the ice bin back in and turned the water back on. After a couple of hours, I threw out the first couple of batches of ice and it is now working as it had in the past.
I also noticed, when looking at the old ice maker, that the black plastic coating was coming off the ice cube tray, so it was a good time to be replacing it anyway. Overall, a very easy job (I was prepared for swearing, parts being slightly off, etc.) and it would have been a shame to have paid someone to do it.
Removed ice container, replaced end cap that holds Auger shaft that connects to shaft that turns the Auger. End cap plastic nubs wear where it makes contact to the turning stub. Removing a few screws on the front of ice container allows the Auger shaft to slide forward and away from the end cap. Maneuver end cap from shaft, replace using same maneuver and that is it. Pretty easy, even for a novice like me. A $6.00 end cap verses the whole assembly at around $70.00 I'm pleased.......
The Ice maker unit had to be removed and the shaft had to also be removed, which required dis-assembling the motor drive. The thickness of the shaft and the bearing fill cup prevents it from simply pushing it in place. Other than that I have Ice.
Used socket set to remove screws. Removed the wire harness, then removed lift arm from old ice maker and then put lift arm on the new ice maker. Reinstall wire harness then installed back in freeze with the screws. Video was very helpful. I will do business with Partselect in the future. Shipping was very fast. Thanks Partselect
Refrigerator would cool for a very short period of time. Then the compressor would shutdown via internal thermal overload or high head pressure. This was caused by the lack of airflow across the condenser coils and compressor.
(1) Slide out appliance and remove power source. (2) Removed lower access cover on rear of refrigerator. (3) Disconnected plug to the condenser fan motor. (4) remove blades by pulling gently forward (5) remove mounting hardware holding the fan motor (3 screws) (6) motor is now free and new motor can be installed
Watched video. Unplugged refrigerator and popped out switch. In plugged connector and pushed switch in place. Plugged in refrigerator and the light worked
