MGR5755QDW Maytag Range - Instructions

got new horizontal igniter from Parts Select pulled stove out from wall unplugged old igniter took out bottom oven pan loosened two screws. used same two screws to put new igniter in place, put back bottom oven pan pushed bake button on front of oven and the old was lioke new again

My top burners and broiler were working fine so I knew it was not a gas pressure issue,after reading other peoples oven issues I felt comfortable that my problem was the oven igniter, the igniter was only building about 50 to 75 percent of the normal glow/heat needed, thereby not creating enough heat to trip the sensor that opens the oven burner gas valve. 2 Screws hold a drip pan which after removed allow access to the igniter. 2 Screws hold the igniter in. You need to access the rear of the stove to plug in the new igniter connector at a 1 screw access panel in the center of the back of stove. My oven has been working great since the repair. I would recomend partselect anytime, I ordered the wrong igniter, the diagram is confusing so be carefull , and had to send it back , I got my refund in less than a week. Good luck from beautiful western new york state.

After reading about my problem, I determined it was the igniter. I immediately ordered one. It came two days later. I took the bottom drawer out and removed the shield. To get to the plug wires, I unplugged the old igniter. I used my power nut driver to take off two threaded screws so igniter could be removed. I then pulled the old igniter out. Plugged new one in and reversed process to install new one. I installed it when I got home from work in less than 30 minutes. all is well. We were looking at buying a new stove for $700.00. I fixed it for less than $60.00. Thanks

took the bottom of oven out.Took the ignitor off the bar. Took the center panel off of the back of stove. Unplugged the ignitor, plugged new one in. Attached ignitor to bar.Put bottom panel back in stove. all done.

removed oven door, removed all shelving....unplugged the electrical cord........unsrewed the igniter(2 screws)removed some of the insulation on back of oven that was covering the wire and plug......disconnected the wire plug...........reversed the process and 15 minutes later I was done............the oven works great.......the new igniter arrived 2 days after I ordered it. thanks

It was necessary to take the decorative glass and metal safety panel off using a screwdriver in order to get to the frame that holds the safety glass. It was hard to slide the new glass into the frame without help from a second person to hold the other pane in place.This was an easy repair to make I would just suggest having 2 people to hole things in place while replacing screws.

1.) Remove door from hinges (open slightly and pull up). 2.) Remove racks. 3.) Remove oven floor to expose burner. 4.) Remove wing-nut and burner cover. 5.) Remove two ignitor mounting screws. 6.) Pull wires and connector through back wall. 7.) Connect new ignitor and mount to burner. 8.) Replace components in reverse order.

I disconnected the electrical power, but not the gas line, and pulled the oven unit away from the wall. I unscrewed the old temperature sensor mount and only realized then the simple configuration: A wire from the sensor runs through the back of the internal oven space to the back of the oven unit through a thin space filled with insulation. The old sensor was easy to disconnect behind the oven unit and pull the old sensor and wire forward through the opening in the oven. The most challenging part was threading the new sensor wire from the oven interior through the back of the oven unit. The instructions and comments provided on-line by previous customers was EXTREMELY helpful. I wish I could do many more household repairs like this!

Ordered the oven sensor. Two screws to remove to replace old sensor. Since this was a slide in unit, you had direct access to the wiring harness. Used the adaptor. Total repair time about 20 minutes. A very easy do-it-yourself project.

removed the door, removed the bottom, removed the glass. The handle bracket it attached to the door but though the vented part. After removing the old handle just had to put it all together again, Not hare just a lot to take a apart.

easy

I unscrewed the door's top edge, removed the bottom drawer to loosen the oven door's bottom edge to where its screws were hanging in by a thread. The outside glass was then removable and exposed the screws holding the door handle mounting pieces. I unscrewed the four screws that held the mounts to the door, then the two that held the handle to the mounts, replaced the broken handle with my promptly delivered new one and reassembled the door in reverse order of above. Oh yeah, reading the other accounts of how to do this was the most important step in all this.

My used stove had been dropped by the previous owner. While I could live with the minor scratches on one side the wooden shims holding up one corner were annoying. A new leveling leg was less than $2. I used a pair of needle nose pliers to straighten the mounting hole and screwed the new leg in. This used stove was originally $2000 but I bought it for $999. the new leg plus shipping was about $10. What a deal.

I opened the door partway to remove the door. Then I removed the bottom heat shield plate by pulling it towards me and lifting it up. I removed the two screws holding on the igniter, then with the the disconnect removed the old ignitor. I plugged in the new ignitor, replaced the screws, replaced the heat shield, replaced the oven door, and was done in ten minutes.

Replacing the vertical mount igniter was very simple. Remove 2 srews and one plug. I did pull out the oven to unplug te igniter. The process could not be easier.