MGR5755QDW Maytag Range - Instructions

watched video provided when ordered part; follow the steps, easy as pie

Undid screws on front and some on the back and replaced part and put screws back on and it fixed the proble

Remove back panel(4 screws). Unplug igniter and sensor. Unscrew the igniter and the oven sensor from inside oven(4 more screws). Pull old igniter and sensor out of oven. Replace with new and tuck wires through holes. Replace the four screws. Plug new wires in at rear of oven and replace back panel with the other four screws. Push the unit back to the wall and fire it up. As easy as that. 15 minutes to save at least $200.00 dollars.

The feedback from other customers was excellent. It does come apart in layers, and it helped me to number each layer with a sticky note as I dismantled it. I also kept the screws for each layer right next to the layer, so that I knew how many screws each layer used. The only thing I can add is that the tabs to remove the innermost glass from the frame are on one of the shorter sides of the rectangular frame. The tabs are part of the frame, and when you bend them outward the side of the frame detaches and you can replace the glass easily. In addition to the #1 Philips screwdriver, all I needed was a pair of pliers to bend the tabs.

Got the part, changed it, works great. That's all

opened the oven door, remove racks, remove lower drawer, unscrew protective panel on lower part, take out the bottom plate, unclip the old igniter, clip in new igniter, put everything back together and you are done!

The igniters burn out periodically, light bulbs, and have to be replaced. There are two of them, one for the oven and one for the broiler. To get access to the one for the oven, I removed the shelves and the floor of the oven. It lifts out. Two screws hold the igniter to a mounting bracket by the burner. The wires on the igniter pass through a hole in the back of the oven. There was not be enough slack in the wire to get the connector through the hole, so I had to get acess to it from below. I removed the storage drawer from the range. At the back, behind the drawer is a panel that's held on by two screws. I removed the panel and disconnected the igniter wires. I fed the new igniter wire through the hole in the oven and connected it. Then I replaced the panel and the drawer, screwed the igniter in place and replaced the floor of the oven.

1)Completely removed racks, oven bottom and broiler drawer to access unit. 2)Shut off gas supply by by pulling horizontal lever on left side of safety valve forward to close valve. 3)With screwdriver, removed heat shield covering safety valve and connector from igniter. 4)With socket wrench, removed the two mounting screws on igniter. 5)Installed new igniter, connecting to safety valve. 6)Turned on gas supply by pushing horizontal lever to left of safety valve back to open valve (see step 2). Turned on oven to test. 7)Upon gas igniting, shut off oven and install oven components in reverse order.

Hello,

Your website and prediction that this replacement part was the problem were exactly correct. This part was easy to remove and replace, it is the starter for the oven so it comes with a heating element and a built in connector. I simply pulled the old wires up, unhooked the connector and removed the two mounting screws. Plugged in the new part, pushed the connector back down past the insulation, re-installed the screws and turned the oven on and poof, it started up again. We have also noticed that the oven stays hotter now, just like it did when we bought it.

Thank you very much for the advice and for supplying the correct part. A $65 part is much better than having to buy a $500 new stove/oven. We are very happy we found you and will use you again should some other appliance break down.

Sincerely,
Jim Arao
Seaside, CA 93955

I searched Whirlpool, Sears and random appliance stores and Part Select was the only company to have the lens available. All other manufacturers said the lens was no longer manufactured as a stand alone piece and I would have to buy the entire light assembly. Thank you Parts Select!!!!!

Replaced the igniter as I've done with other products with similar problems. My amp tester wasn't working so I didn't test the igniter. The igniter wasn't the problem so I contacted a repair man who came up with the conclusion that the problem was actually the gas control valve. The valve wasn't letting enough gas to ignite the burner.

I had to pull the range out from the wall and loosen the rear cover to free the connector for the sensor as it got stuck on a corner guide. Put the new sensor in, rear cover back on, range back in place and tested the oven. Oven heats fast now and keeps a more even temp. Makes me wonder how long I was trying to cook with a bad sensor.

This is a no brainer. I am only doing this because you asked. Pull out the stove, tilt it back, remove broken leg, install new leg.

got new horizontal igniter from Parts Select pulled stove out from wall unplugged old igniter took out bottom oven pan loosened two screws. used same two screws to put new igniter in place, put back bottom oven pan pushed bake button on front of oven and the old was lioke new again

My top burners and broiler were working fine so I knew it was not a gas pressure issue,after reading other peoples oven issues I felt comfortable that my problem was the oven igniter, the igniter was only building about 50 to 75 percent of the normal glow/heat needed, thereby not creating enough heat to trip the sensor that opens the oven burner gas valve. 2 Screws hold a drip pan which after removed allow access to the igniter. 2 Screws hold the igniter in. You need to access the rear of the stove to plug in the new igniter connector at a 1 screw access panel in the center of the back of stove. My oven has been working great since the repair. I would recomend partselect anytime, I ordered the wrong igniter, the diagram is confusing so be carefull , and had to send it back , I got my refund in less than a week. Good luck from beautiful western new york state.