MGC5536BDS Maytag Cooktop - Instructions

Simple as a dimple. Over time the plastic connections have gotten cracked or broken all together. Why they don't make them out of stainless is beyond me. Make more money, duh! Anyway, old off new ones one. Nothing else. This company speedy delivery - ordered Friday received Saturday. Thanks!

First I drilled out the screws on the burner as they were fused. I opened the stove top cover to access the underside of the burner. Removed the orifice holder, by disconnecting the gas line with a line Wrench and the electric cord.

The trick is to be careful with the gas line. Also when you go to replace the orifice holder you will notice that the holes are not threaded. The metal is soft and you're supposed to just screw the screws into the holes and let them bite into the metal. Then you reattach the gas on the electric and put the stove top back together.

I simply took off the broken one and replaced it with the new one

R&R. Couldn't be easier. Lift and push. Just do it straight or the knob shaft will fracture.

I pulled off the old and replaced with the new.

after I received the cap in the mail, I removed the grillwork and set the cap in place. then replaced the grill and my wife fixed my supper.

Not much to share. Once I figured out the model number and the right color, just popped them on.

replacement harness was an exact replacement except the connector for the supply side. the cook top had a female spade connector and the new harness had a female single pin connector. i had to replace the connector on the harness.

A very simple repair.
I inserted the brackets and screwed them in position

cut off terminals and replaced with the right size one's stove lights every time now wlrowe

I shorted out the igniter assembly snd called a recommended repairman. He came over and called the appliance warehouse he deals with and they quoted him $169.00 for the part with 15 to 20 working days for delivery. He told me it will be a total of $300.00 to repair. After he left I checked on your website and found the part and ordered it. It took 2 days for delivery and was less than $30.00. After reading your simple instructions it took less than 30 min to repair. I took the screws holding the burners off and raised the burner assembly. I removed the old ignitor assembly and installed the new. The lead attachments were different so I cut and spliced the old attachment onto the new. Easy.

The trickiest part was locating the elusive spark module. I am not certain I took the best route, but not considering all the wrong routes in trial and error, it was the most expedient. Certainly there must have been a single something to remove to get to this frequently faulted part..

Anyhow, thanks to the great part, the stove works really well again.

First step is to turn gas off to cook top and also disconnect power to the unit. Than using a crescent wrench disconnect the gas line going to the unit from the Regulator. Than again using the crescent wrench disconnect the regulator from the bottom of the unit. Next remove the nipple that connects the gas line to the regulator from the old unit. Apply new pipe dope to the threads and screw it into the new one and tighten down. Next install the regulator to the unit and install the gas line to the regulator. once done with the install you can now plug the unit in and turn on the gas. You are now ready to use the cook top again

removed rear cover where the spark module was and change it

This repair is only if your old igniters are working but they are so cracked that the spark is not going where it should be. TURN OF THE GAS SUPPLY VALVE BEHIND THE STOVE AND UNPLUG THE STOVE FROM THE WALL.I had to drill out most of the old screws to remove the burners plates because of all the old baked on spills. I bought replacement screws when I bought the igniters because I felt this would be a problem. My repair time included scrubbing the stove top. Once all the parts that make up the stovetop burners were removed (NOTE WHICH BURNER PLATE CAME FROM WHICH LOCATION, THEY ARE DIFFERENT SIZES) and I could see the pipes beneath the stove top, I cleared off the top and used a spreading knife to push in the clips on the left and right sides near the front of the stove. It was thin enough to fit in the space between the stove top and main body. Push the clip inward and pull up on the stove top and it will let you lift the top. Be careful because it may release suddenly so be gentle. I also removed the top section of the back of the stove to access the igniter terminal block. A few screws, nothing more. Be sure to take note of which wire goes where. (They are color coded). Unplug the old igniters. it is easiest to cut he old igniters off of the end of the wires and pull out three wires leaving only one. At the back left of the top of the stove there is a rectangle channel that the wires are running through. There is a clip that holds the wires loosely together. Remove the wires from that clip or the next part will be difficult. Run each of the new igniter wires through their respective holes in the stove top. BE CAREFUL NOT TO DAMAGE THE WIRE INSULATION IN ANY WAY. When you put the burner plates back on the igniters will be sandwiched in between the plate and the stove top. Using electrical tape, tape the connector ends of the new wires to the one remaining old wire. Gently pull the old wire through the rectangle channel, pulling from the back of the stove. Take your time so no damage occurs. Once the wires are pulled, plug them in to their respective terminals and place the wires in the loose clip. Make sure the new wires are not crossing the pipe openings where the burners are located. You can close the stove top and double check there are no wires across any of the burner openings. Re-assemble the burners and plug in the stove. DO NOT OPEN THE GAS VALVE. Turn on the stove and check to make sure the new igniters are working properly and sparking to the burner plate assemblies. You should see a controlled spark. Do not touch the burner plates or igniters or you will be shocked. If all are working then you may put the back cover on and open the gas valve. If none are working make sure the stove is plugged in. If some are working then check the connection on the terminal block and the wire insulation. If they are still not working then you've got bigger fish to fry. Good luck my friend. Happy fixing!