MFD2560HES Maytag Refrigerator - Instructions

Part arrived in 2 days. Repair very easy

removed old water head valve and replaced with the new one.

Ordered new center rail which arrived next day (!) my husband took the shelf out, inserted new rail into slots, replaced shelf, put the bins back and it works perfectly again. No problem at all, took less that 15 min. including removing food items from shelf and putting shelf back into the refrigerator.

Unplug refrigerator. Remove the food trays in the freezer section. Unplug the wire connector to the icemaker. Remove the three screws to the icemaker then remove the icemaker. To remove the back panel, first remove the plastic cover on the top by inserting a screwdriver in the indicated slots on the sides then prying until cover snaps off. Remove the plastic cover for the temperature probe in the upper right corner by snapping off the cover and carefully fishing the probe through the hole in the cover. Remove the 4 screws in the rear panel and carefully pull panel out from rear of freezer section. Fish the temperature probe through the hole to allow the panel to be removed. Snap the plastic icemaker plug connecter mounting bracket out of rear panel and fish it through the panel. Now the rear panel can be completely removed. Locate the defrost thermostat in the upper section of the freezer compartment and unsnap it from the copper coil. Cut wires to the thermostat, being sure to leave enough length to splice the new thermostat in. Crimp the wires to the new thermostat using a butt connector and heat shrink tubing to seal up the connection. Snap the new thermostat onto the copper tube where the old one was positioned. It is a good idea to check the heater element with an ohmmeter while you have this all apart. Do this by unplugging the element on the right side and connecting one side of your meter to the plug there and the other side of your meter to the plug connection that is on the icemaker plug (trace the wires). If you do not get any continuity, then your element is bad and will need to be replaced. Replace the rear cover after re-installing the plug assemby for the icemaker and temperature probe. Dont forget to fish the icemaker tube and the temperature probe through the rear cover before screwing it back in place. re- install the plastic covers on the rear panel and the temperature probe, then reinstall the icemaker.

Couldn't believe how complicated this part is with heaters. It is used in at least a billion refrigerators and functions well. But I had to tear it all apart to adopt it. Got it all done and stayed awake all night for waiting for Ice. Nothing! Then a Erika moment! Turn the ice arm full switch off! Then Ice poured out every hour. Expecting many years of ice. Thanks for speedy delivery especially before Christmas..

need instr. to repair

Remove light lens by pushing straight back (needs some oomph, but not too much). Remove control housing by prying spring clips in back of housing with thin screwdriver or knife. Remove old control board by releasing plastic clips on both sections and removing 2 wiring plugs. Be careful snapping new control board in ; the alignment of the 4 switches and the 2 readouts is critical - easy to hang up a switch. Snap the control housing back into place, making sure that it is all the way in. Position the light lens so that it is lined up and about 1/2" back and then slide it forward (toward you) into place. The instruction sheet calls the refrigerator section the "fresh food" section. There are 2 light switches, one for each door. Both have to held down to get light to go out and enter programming mode. Easiest to close the right door, then push left door switch and quickly push the freezer DOWN button 3 times. Follow the instructions to set the program on the display and then push AND HOLD the freezer DOWN button until the display starts flashing. Release the freezer DOWN button, close the doors, open the doors to check. Display will indicate two 4s. (that was what mine indicated). Done.

The repair was a lot easier than I thought. I first ordered the ice-maker part from PartSelect. Followed the instructions from the how-to video and I was done within 30 minutes. Unplugged the fridge, took out the two 1/4" nut screws holding up the ice-maker, disconnected the wiring harness and then re-attached the new ice-maker in reverse order. Had to use some of the parts from the old ice-maker, like the cover, ice wire (the wire that moves up and down, letting you know when the ice box was full or starts the ice-making process) The whole process along the PartSelect video made it easy.

Viewed the viedo - it showed what to do

Watch the video and then do the repair.

Repair was very easy. I don't have many tools so I had to buy a quarter inch socket to remove the screw

First of all, I do not consider myself very handy. Most of my simple home repair projects include at least 2 trips to the local hardware store and take twice as long as they probably should. So if I can do this anyone can. For once, rather than just blindly throw new parts at a problem I did check the water pressure to the icemaker first and then even tested the icemaker with a multi-tester to determine what was wrong. I had $5.00 mulit-tester in my workbench but had never actually used it before, so I found step by step instructions on another website on how to test the motor and it turned out that one of the circuits in the main motor was in fact bad. Since the motor was around $80.00 dollars and the Whole unit that's inside your freezer is about $120.00 I decided it was best to just go ahead and replace the entire unit rather than just the motor. From what I saw online normally replacing an Ice maker is fairly simple. Remove 3 screws swap the prewired plug along with the metal arm then just reinstall it. Somehow whenever I try a home repair it's never that simple. First of all, our freezer is on the bottom so removing the screws holding the ice maker meant that I had to climb over, around and under the freezer shelves in order to get to the ice maker itself. Also one of the screws is not visible from the front so I had to hold a mirror in one hand while I tried loosening the screw with the other. Since the metal arm that turns off the ice maker is not included in the replacement it had to be moved over. Of course it was stuck, so it did take a little time to get it loose because I was being careful not to bend it and have to order another one. Finally installing the new icemaker meant once again that i was climbing over under and around the basket in the bottom level freezer. There is probably an easy way to remove the entire drawer but I couldn't find the release tabs so when just pulling harder on the drawer didn't work, I thought it best to just work around it. Still all in all, not a difficult job, just a little time consuming. The guy in the video did the swap in about 6 minutes, it took me about 45.

It was simple. Took longer to empty the fridge than to do the repair itself. For the center rail no tools required. For the pantry end only needed a 1/4" nutdriver. 2 hold on the rail which has to be removed. Then 3 on the pantry itself. Came right off just have to be careful not to disrupt the temperature control that runs through it for the pantry. It is rather flimsy and thin plastic that could break easily. Assembled the temp control back onto it and reassembled. Literally 15 minute repair for both.

Installation was really easy since the replacement part was identical to the OEM part. Removed the three mounting screws with a nut driver. This allows one to remove the icemaker from the wall and disconnect the wire harness plug from the icemaker. I never unplugged the harness from the rear wall of the refrigerator. Put the new icemaker in place, making sure to place the water fill tube in the proper hole. Plugged the wire harness into the new icemaker and tightened the three mounting screws. The icemaker worked perfectly from then on with clean ice cubes and no leaks.

Unplugged appliance. Using a small putty knife I moved the switch out far enough to grab it with pliers. Moved wiring to new switch and pushed into place after testing.