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F1 code and oven wouldn't operate
I was told by appliance repairman that sensor and electronic panel were out - so ordered both as PartSelect was less expensive (about 1/2) than service call price. Sensor was in stock and arrived in 2 days, panel was special order from factory. Replaced the sensor. Pressed Control Lock pad for several seconds and oven clock came on. Was able to set baking temp, broiler, and convection operation as normal. Canceled order on panel as Sensor fixed my problem.
Lower bake element started sparking and split in to.
Removed 2 phillips head screws, disconnected the 2 wires. Installed new element, connected wires then installed screws. Took less than 3 minutes. What i liked was how fast I received the new element. Ordered online on Friday around 12:30 and received Saturday morning by 9:00 AM. Excellent transaction!
Turn off breaker. Remove knob, pulls off. Pulled stove away from wall. Removed front panel with switches attached. There are screws in front and back. Removed screws that hold switch in place. Transferred wires one at at time to get proper location. Reverse process for reassembly Gary in Ohio
I removed the door from the oven and set it on towel on the table, and started the repair of the door. I removed the screws one at a time, and one layer at a time. Becareful you need to take the whole door apart, and remember how it goes bact together. In the end it was worth it. The hardest part was getting the right part. I thought I could order the whole door, and found out after several calls they don't sell the whole door. Part Select both times I put in my order had the parts at my door within 2 to 3 days. I also had to return one of the parts and within 2 to 3 days the part was credited to my account
I had some confusion about the correct series number associated with my stove and called Partselect. They confirmed the part I was looking at was correct in less than 5 minutes. I then completed the order online. Even with standard shipping my order was processed immediately and I received the heating element the next day.
Turned off the breaker. Removed the two screws in the front holding the range top down. Loosened the screws holding the element in place while balancing the range top with my shoulder. Removed the wires from the older element one at a time and attached them to the new element. Put the new element in place and screwed back in place. If I had a little help with the range top I think I could have completed it in 5 minutes but I was at home alone and the other stories of doing this repair made it seem easy enough and it was.
I first removed the drawer from under the oven, then I used 2 strips of packing tape to hold the front glass in place. Next I loosened the 4 screws on the bottom side of the door to the point just before they would fall out. Next I had someone help hold the glass as we removed the tape and slid the glass from under the handle and set it aside. Once the glass was off I removed the 4 screws on top of the door and the 4 screws (2 each side) holding the handle brackets. From that point it was just a couple of screws on the back of the handle to swap the broken part for new and reassembling everything. Could be done in 30 minutes, 40 by yourself. Maytag wants $24 to tell you how to do this, it's not worth the money. Also, PartSelect.com sold me the part for 30% than Sears or Maytag advertise - they've earned a permanent bookmark in my browser!
I removed the two small screws, gently pulled the element outward, slid the wire connectors off the ends of the element legs and reversed the process to install the new one. THE ELEMENT STILL DOES NOT HEAT. There must be a bad switch or thermostat at the ON switch area. That will be checked out by a Repair man as soon as I can get a schedule from him.
I pulled the range away from the wall to gain access to the back.I turned off the power to the range at the circuit breaker panel. I unscrewed all little screws on top of back plate then removed it carefully.I took several pictures on the connections to the ECR board.I watched a video on You Tube which was helpful.The difficulty was getting the connectors off without breaking them. By carefully putting the edge of the flat blade screwdriver under each connector and twisting it gently I was able to get this little plastic locking pin to let go.Once this pin unlocked I was able to remove the connector from the prongs on the range. After removing the ECR board I carefully removed the decal from the front of the old board by pushing the edge of a sharp putty knife slowly under the decal. Following the pictures I took I was able to connect the new ECR board connectors properly and re-assemble the board into the top of the range after attaching the decal being careful to line it up properly.Once the range was back against the wall I turned on the power and set the clock then proceeded to test the small top oven which now worked fine.I found the people at at this stie to be very knowledgeable about what parts are needed to fix common problems.
SHUT OFF BREAKER FOR OVEN! pulled oven out to get at backside,removed 3 screws on back coverplate,removed 2 screws inside oven at sensor in top left corner of oven,disconnected plastic clip at back ,pulled old sensor through hole.replaced sensor with new in reverse order. 15minutes tops.
First, I would like to appreciate providing a diagram of the product with a clear schematic. It was very easy to identify the item that I was looking for(an element). The serial number shown against the schematic enabled me to identify the item and pace the order.
Second, the item was delivered on time as promised.
Finally, the item that I purchased was very easy to replace. It came in as a full assembly. Just removed 4 screws, removed the damaged element and plugged in the new one. Thats it!!!
l certainly recommend this site to others to perform a self repair of their home appliances.
Upper broil element starting getting super hot. I think it actually started melting! Obviously had to be replaced.......
Make sure you unplug your stove before you start! You should probably shut off the power at the breaker box too.
Since the upper oven is so small, I found that I couldn't reach the connectors well enough to work with them. So I pulled out the whole oven, took the screws off the back cover and from the back I was able to easily reach where the wires connected to the element. Then it was a piece of cake.
Just use a small knife to unbend the little metal things that hold on to the metal ends of the element. Slide them on to the new element, and crimp them tight with pliers.
Oh, you also have to take off the bracket on the ceiling of the inside of the oven to get the old element out, and the new one in.
Burner would only cook on high setting or not heat up at all.
Shut off power to stove. Moved stove out. Loosened screws in top and middle back of stove and removed cover. Took mental note of color order of each wire and unhooked each wire from old switch and reattached to new switch in exact order of color of wire as original. Remounted cover on back of stove and reattached screws. Turned on power and turned on burner and tested burner for heat. Turned off burner, slid stove back and bingo - done. Saved a lot of money.
Repair would have only taken minutes, but upper support plate screws were rusted and almost fused to the plate. Once the plate screws were out (had to pry plate out) installation was done in 3-5 minutes.
As for the replacement part, worked perfect on the first try. Very happy with price, speed of delivery and preformance.