LDEA500ACL Admiral Dryer - Instructions

the video was very well done and able to understand. disconnect power ,remove lint trap,remove 2 phillps head screws, push putty knife in front seam line about 1'' in from corners to release top assembly ,lift up and support, disconnect wire connector ,remove 1 screw in each front corner lift front panel off while holding drum, remove broken belt,install new belt with grooves against drum ,feed around tensioner pulley and onto motor shaft pulley ,spin drum by hand to make sure belt tracking etc. reassembly in reverse.

Learned as I went along, from various YouTube videos.

I lucked out opening the top of the dryer in that I didn't break anything when I popped the top up, since I didn't know to use a putty knife to depress inward the retaining clips.

Found the belt lying on top of the drum, and when I lifted it, it easily came free since it was broken.

Watched the YouTube from PartSelect, finally, and Steve made it seem so easy. Unplugged it, turned off the gas, too.

Front two screws unscrewed no problem. Front panel lifted away, no problem. Tons of lint in the front housing, so I decided to clean away as much lint as possible since this was the best opportunity, and I also vacuumed lint out of the sheet metal exhaust all the way to the outdoors exit port. Then I had to get that sheet metal pipe back in place, perfectly, and that was a little tricky

The roller kit was a bargain compared to separate parts I thought I'd need (one roller only) so I replaced both rollers and their posts, spacer, and washers.

Another vender video recommended high temp lithium grease to lube the new posts, but I just used "plumbers grease" that I happened to find lying around the house.

The most difficult part of the whole process was pre-fitting the new screws into the plates of the new posts because you are self-threading the screws and I didn't have a nut driver. (I was trying to do it using two wrenches, one to hold the plate, the other to turn the screw. The torque required is so high that you'll start to round the hex edges of the screws and ruin them. So, I went out and bought a 5/16" socket for $2.49, and self threaded the screws by holding the plates with a wrench, and using my power drill with the 5/16" socket.

This is where you risk ruining everything because as soon as the screw has self-threaded the plate, the resistance drops to near-zero, and the drill zooms the screw down hard onto the plate. I found, afterward, one ribbon of thread lying on the work area, which means I stripped one of the threads by one winding. (I'm not too worried, but it did make me wonder if I had screwed up. Keep the old screws to use as replacements for the new ones if you encounter the same problem where you inadvertently strip a screw too far.)

Then, the plates go back into the dryer, and the left side plate has a much larger gap, because you have to remove/replace it through the rear wall slot by turning it in-situ; the right one just falls down into your waiting hand, and is replaced by raising it up from behind its slot.

Finally, you come to the belt replacement, and just follow the way Steve showed in the YouTube. However, I tried and tried, but it was difficult for me since I'm left handed and you do it with the right hand. I was finally able to get it by getting the belt around the metal drive, first, and then bringing the white wheel over and working it into position by pulling the belt forward to clear the white wheel being positioned to receive the belt's tension.

This is a very doable dryer repair, it will save you hundreds of dollars, you'll do a better job than a repairman (since you vacuum all the lint out too), and its a great story to tell your friends.

Learning how to do it, actually doing the repair, and then double checking that I got everything "right," I'd guess that I put in 8 hours of my time.

It was fun… but keep your cool since there will be a little aggravation, and maybe a trip to the hardware store to get tools you don't own.

watched your video on 'how to' and did it like man showed..no problem

Absolute First thing to do - Unplug drier from power source.
1st I looked up the parts drawing on line. 2nd Took the front of the drier off . It was held on by two
hex head screws. iIused a four-in-one screwdriver as a nut driver. 3rd. Lifted the front off the two post that held the front on, being careful not to strecth the wiring. 4th Took old wheel off, by removing snap ring with a pair of pliers,it came right of, no puller was needed because the hub was out of round. 5th Pushed the new wheel on, being sure to line up the "D" shape to match the motor shaft.
I could not push the wheel all the way on so I took a short piece of 1/2 copper tubing and used that to drive the wheel into place. The tubing fit over the motor shaft and was smaller than the hub. Be careful to tap the plastic wheel on, you do not want to crack the wheel. 6th Put snap ring on -with pliers. Reassembled front. Finished.

Lifted top lid of cabinet using putty knife to release clips then removed front panel. Removed drum from unit and set aside. Found that one of the drum support roller wheels had lost the rubber roller. Removed old roller and secured new one which was an easy fix.
Installing the drum belt was a bit more difficult as I had to do it alone. I threaded the belt through the pulley/control arm and held it taugt with one hand and then inched the belt around the drum while holding it in place with my knees. Took awhile but I got it secured. Would definitely help to remove one of the side panels of dryer or have someone assist you.

Checked the voltage to the high limit switch. Found that the element was bad. Ordered the part from partselect.com. and received the part in two days. Unplugged the unit, pulled the lid on the dryer, used the 5/16" nutdriver, removed 3 or 4 screws, pulled out the old and installed the new. Saved a $100.00 service call from the repair man! Novice in home improvement can do this. Thank you Partselect!!!

First I was told by the maytag repair man that the motor was shot and it would be 467 dollars to repair. Since I didn't have that kind of money I decided to take it apart to see if I could replace the motor myself. Once I had it apart I saw the part that held the motor in place was broken off and the motor was out of place causing it too shut itself off. Once I figured it all out it took about 2 minutes to replace the less than 6 dollar part! Thanks partSelect!!!

Ordered the leveling bolts, very fast shipping, parts correct as shown. Purchased a condo by the shore, frige had no levelers, they went in smoothly & was done in no time.
Steve

I took apart the dryer by unscrewing the top and the front, front comes off by just undoing the two top screws on the inside. I figured it was something to do with the rollers since the noise was ciclycal. The hardest part was to put the drive belt back on. It helps to have a second person for about 5 minutes.

I watch the video and played it again while I was working.
I am a 54 year young woman and I did it.

Disconnect power. Removed front panel and lifted top. Removed belt around spring pully and motor assembly. Carefully eased belt around back of drum and gasket. Reverse process.

Pull dryer out from wall about 6 to 8 inches step 1 - romove front/bottom access panel. Step 2 - remove lint trap and remove 2 screws (philips type) that is under lint trap door. Step 3 - push in 2 wood shime in front edge between lid and front panel (angled shims like door shims - a putty knife will work to, just be carful not to scratch finish) step 4 - fold lid upward and back (like on a hinge) step 5 - looking from where the bottom/front acces panel was losten 2 screws - one left one right about 3 turns - 9you can remove them it just makes it easier to reinstall the front panel. Step 6 - find appropriate pot or stacked 2 x 4 pieces - something to hold up the drum when you remove th front cover, and from underneeth support the drum. Step 7 - look thru bottm front access hole - there are 2 springs that come down from the door - and clip onto the frame of the fryer - unclip them and place on the side. Step 8 - remove 2 upper screws that hold front panel on, and remove front panel, if you left the bottom screws attached but loosened you have to lift up on the front panel a bit. Step 9 - looking from the bottom thru where access panel was - you will see motor on right with a additional roller (tensioner) - push upwards on tensioner to relieve pressure on motor and pop off belt (remember where tensioner is and how it clips in to base. Step 10 - work belt off of drum towars front - to remove it all the way you will have to lift up the drum slightly off of the pot or whatever you used for support so the belt can clear. Stem 11 - new belt goes on the same way you took to old one off - plat side away from drum with ribs against drum. Step 12 - again lift up on drum and work belt back on. Step 13 - tricky part is how to get the belt back on the motor - prentend you are threading a needle wht a folded over piece of thread - hold the belt with about a 4" loop with your left hand - hold up on tensioner and feed it back thru and work belt back over end of motor pulley, after front panel is back on with the 4 screws tightened spin the drum and make sure belt is between the 2 lines marked on the drum and remove the pot or whatever u used to prop up the drum. Dont forget to attach the springs for the door assemble all other components in reverse order. And dont forget to take the pot back out

I removed the lint trap then the dryer cover from top and front side. I placed the belt around the dryer drum being sure to put it on the correct side with the grid side against drum. I coiled the belt around the pulley and motor tract. Replaced everything in opposite order in which it was removed.
Video from website was very informative and helpful. I was able to follow along step-by-step to replace the dryer drum belt. I am officially a do-it-your-selfer!!!

The repair was much easier than anticipated. Next time I could do it in less than 30 minuites.

Replaced the axel that holds the rollers as well as the rollers. Just rotate the left one 90 degrees and it slides out.

Probably what took the most time was puting the belt back on. It is old so I was being careful. It took a couple of trys to keep it on the rollers as I moved the drum into position. So easy I am convinced to buy another Maytag.

Wife was impressed so that's worth something!

Took two screws out of the Lint tray on top. remove to bolts from under hood then put new belt on. Always make sure there are no twists in belt when put back on