LAT7300ABW Maytag Washer - Instructions

First I looked it up on the computer and clicked on Part Select's page and it came up with the part needed and then I watched the video on installing the part. It was easy to follow their instructions and the repair was made. I was so pleased with everything I ran across a man in the hardware store this morning and he was having cloths dryer trouble that I told him to just click on your site and the rest would be easy. He said he would do that. In fact I took the Wife out to dinner on just part of what money you saved me. Thanks, Harold

I watched the video and everthing went pretty well. The only problem I had was removing the Clamp Nut. My Washer is more than 10yrs. old so there is a lot of water and lime build up. I use a Cole Chisel and a Ball Pen Hammer to break the Clamp Nut. Because you can dispose of it anyway a new Clamp Nut comes with your Mounting Stem/Tub Seal Kit. The Tub wrench comes in handy for removing the Mounting Stem and to reseat the Mounting Stem. You are also going to need the Tub Wrench for reseating the Clamp Nut. You can order a Tub Wrench online there are various web sites.

Repair was very easy. I watched the video once and followed all the instructions to replace the water inlet valve, injector valve and nozzle. If I see it done once, I can do the repair. I was very impressed with PartSelect's web site, instructions and video. I'm glad my wife found you on the web. Will do business with you again.

Install new siphon break connector: 1. Loosened the clamp holding the drain hose in place on the elbow at the rear of the washer. Removed the hose from the elbow. 2. Removed the round upper access plate on the rear of the washer. 3. Removed the 4 screws holding the elbow in place, thereby releasing the siphon break connector and internal drain hose inside the washer cabinet. 4. Reached through the access port, grasped the siphon break connector end of the internal drain hose, pulled it through the access port. 5. Loosened and removed the clamp on hose, then removed the old siphon break connector from the end of the hose. 6. Installed the new siphon break connector onto the hose, clamped it in place, then returned the hose into the washer cabinet through the access port and positioned it onto the elbow, tightened the part down by reinstalling 4 screws at elbow on rear of the washer and then reconnected/clamped the external drain hose onto the elbow and replaced the access port cover.

I got all of my repair information from your website. I started with 'Maytag washer leaks' and found out that, statistically, the rubber injector valve was the first most likely leak source. Then, to check if this was actually the leak, I lifted the top of the machine during the fill cycle, and watched the water spritzing from the housing that enclosed the Rubber Injector Valve. Next, I watched one of your repair videos associated with replacing the valve. Next, I ordered the part from you. When it came, I installed it. The whole process, from beginning to end, was very good.

Tried replacing timer, mixing valve, drain pump to no avail. Bought the lid switch assembly. That worked, here's how to do it. Unplug washer. Remove two philips head screws on top control panel to remove front. The lid switch assembly is mounted on the back behind the timer, and easily recognizable by the fuse. Remove wires (I needed wd40 for this part) from old assembly and connect to new assembly. Use nut driver to remove nut that holds the assembly to the washer, being careful to note exactly where the assembly was mounted, because it's adjustable. Bolt new assembly in place. Replace control panel cover (be sure that the bottom lip fits inside before replacing the screws on top. Plug in washer. Turn on washer. You're done.

Removed the old one installed the new one

Replaced the pump. The front panel screws were rusty. I also replaced the belts at the same time. The repair video told me just what to do. I wouldn't have known about the belt tension otherwise.

Everything basically went as planned. Putting the belts on was a breeze, but I had trouble getting on the screws that anchored the pump in. The pulley didn't allow access for a nut driver or socket, even with a universal, there still wasn't enough clearance. I went back and forth between using a screw driver in the end of a socket and using the socket on the end of a tiny breaker bar. It wasn't bad, just took a little patience. Everything works like a champ now.

Same technique as the PartSelect video, except the result leaked to the outside at the outlet port because the two halves of the mold that made it were slightly misaligned, and there were two steps, one on each side of the fitting. Filed the steps away, and used Evinrude gasket sealant to make sure it wouldn't leak, and it didn't.

My husband did the repair. Since he owned a laundry quite a few years ago, he knew what he was doing. After hooking everything back up, the cold water was coming in hot. When hooking up the hoses, he had hooked the cold into the top intake. After watching the online video, he realized that the plate that was to be installed over the hoses, on the back of the washer, clearly stated "H" on top and "C" on the bottom. So we switched the position of the hoses and everything ran perfectly after that. I would suggest to ANYONE doing this repair, to watch the online video first, before starting, because it is very, very helpful.

Watched your viedo, pulled the power plug, pulled the washer away from the wall and tilted back to expose the belts. Rolled the old belts off and put the new ones on. Just be sure to put the correct belt on the pump and agitator drive as they are a bit different. Adjusted the pump belt as described in the inclosed instructions. What was strange was the same instructions was enclosed with the aggiator drive belt which appears to not be adjustable. Once adjusted put washer back in normal position, plugged in power and was ready to go. Seems to work fine now, least no complaints from the wife.