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using Phillips screw driver, remove 5 screws - take off cowl (cover)l. remove 2 screws holding speed control assembly unplug old speed control assembly (4 plugs) and plug in new speed control unit - reassemble cowl .
Speed control would go from a "mix" setting 1 to a whip setting "10" by itself.
When I ordered a replacement assembly, I was sent a "new" replacement. As I had read up on your site to number the 5 wires BEFORE I removed them, this was a great idea. The new assembly was wired differently than the original board. Although no install instructions came with the new part, it was just a matter of connecting the NUMBERED wires to the new configuration. The first time I fired it up after plugging everything in, nothing happened! I removed all the plug-in wires and reinstalled to ensure I had not gotten a tight connection because of the plastic covers over the end connectors. On my second try, everything worked as advertised! VIOLA!!!! It was a bit tough because of the tight spaces within the motor housing and the new wire routing. Just take pictures of the area BEFORE you disconnect anything and you should do o.k., since I did. 20 minutes.
Found a kitchen aid repair video. Found your site for the part I needed. The connections were not like what the video showed but there were enough connector symbols that I was able to understand where they needed to connect. Marking the connections helped for making the new connections when the new circuit board came.
Speed switch bad and Initially thought new part was wrong!
At first thought part was incorrect as the electrical connection tabs on the circuit board were not inline as the existing part. However, upon closer examination I realized that the same quantity of tabs existed on the new part and although not inline, were clearly marked the same as the original part. Unit was easily replaced and is operating just like new.
Mixer slow to turn on and/or register a change in speed
I followed the instructional video closely. My old circuit board was labeled and laid out slightly differently than the new one, so in addition to labeling the wires with "color" or "motor" label from the old board, I also made sure to label with more identifiers that were included on both boards such as "P1" or "P2". Once I labeled the wires with all the information, removal of the old board and installation of the new board was straightforward. This isn't the first repair I've made on my KitchenAid but it was by far the simplest.
Removed 2 screws holding the switch unplugged the one at a time. opened the gear box cover 4 Philip screws, cleaned out the grease removed the pinion gear, removed pin, removed the planet gear assembly replaced gears in reversed order greased it up put gear cover back on and tested worked great.
Board fails, causing motor runs at high speed only
3d time in 20 years, but the mixer itself is built like they did 20 yrs ago PartSelect had the part in my mail box in *20 hours* from online order! See https://www.ereplacementparts.com/kitchenaid-4kp26m1xmc4-professional-stand-mixer-parts-c-114958_114959_115101.html for instructions. BUT - they changed the design so a power switch previously separate from (to the left of) the circuit board is now a microswitch integrated on the board, leaving you with ONE LESS WIRE. Attached is the fix diagram & directions for the new design.
removed top housing, removed gear housing cover, removed all gears, cleaned out all grease, obtained gears and new housing cover, fit all gears in housing, filled with grease and put on housing cover. Reassembled mixer.
2nd speed on mixer would not come on at times without jiggling switch
Removed top cover of mixer which was very easy. Then marked the 4 wires so they could be plugged back to new switch correctly. Removed 2 attaching screws to remove switch and one squeeze connector. Installed new switch after plugging on 4 wires. Snapped squeeze connector in place. Reinstalled top cover.