KGCD807XBL02 KitchenAid Cooktop - Instructions

Take out 2 T15 torx screws. Lift burner assembly, disconnect igniter. Make sure wire does not return into hole. I put A paperclip on it. Connect new burner assembly. Clean under old burner. Install burner assembly with screws. Test burner.
Voila!

Once I got over my first time jitters this was easy. Lucky for me the old screws went back in just fine. The recommended 8/18 x 3/8 screws were way to small to be usable. Check the length of your existing screws if you can before purchasing the recommended ones.

I used a star head driver to take of burners ,then pulled wires out about 2 inches unplugged old ignitors and plugged in new ones

Remove the burner cover to reach the burner assembly. From the top of the cooktop you will see 2 screws holing the burner assembly. Using a T drive (6 point screwdriver)remove both screws and the burner assembly will come out of the cook top. Using a phillips head screw driver, remove the old ignitor from the burner assembly. Mine was galled up, so I had to use some penetrating oil and let it sit for a half hour. I then used a hammer and a phillips head screwdriver to tap the screw as I twisted to un-tightened the screw. Once it broke loose, I placed the new ignitor and reassembled the burner into the stove.

First I removed the burner, two screws held it in place. The ignitor is attached to the burner with one screw remove the screw then remove the one wire connection. Reverse the steps to put back together. The whole job from start to finish takes about five minutes.

Simply removed the old ignitor and install the exact replacement part. Work great.

remove two screws then unplug the wires put the wires back on the new one

First I tried twitching my nose....after I stopped sneezing I got a screw driver and put the new electrode in and gosh in gahiggy, it worked!!

First step is to turn gas off to cook top and also disconnect power to the unit. Than using a crescent wrench disconnect the gas line going to the unit from the Regulator. Than again using the crescent wrench disconnect the regulator from the bottom of the unit. Next remove the nipple that connects the gas line to the regulator from the old unit. Apply new pipe dope to the threads and screw it into the new one and tighten down. Next install the regulator to the unit and install the gas line to the regulator. once done with the install you can now plug the unit in and turn on the gas. You are now ready to use the cook top again

Do not buy just the burner electrodes. The screws that hold the electrode will break off. Purchase the burner head with electrode. I would recommend placing anti-sieze lub on the new screw that holds the electrode to the burner head so if the electrode fails again it can be replaced. The screws that hold the burner head to the top top are mild steel and will rust and snap off. I would use a rust penatrent on these screws several days before trying to remove but most likely they will strip or break off. Replace all these burner head screws with stainless steel screws with anti-seize applied. If any of this sound difficult call a repair company.

A crack in the porcelain caused the spark to not go in the proper direction, therefore the burner would not ignite. To have the job done by a professional would have cost $200.00 plus parts. Remove two phillips screws lift the burner out then remove the one phillips screw that held the electrode. Then with the new electrode in place reverse the previous steps.

Installed new igniter, but would still not light flame. Determined it was a design flaw. On our range, the 2 right hand burners have "lift-off tops" that are farther away vertically from the igniter than the smaller left hand burners. I placed asmall nut from a nut-bolt assembly on top of the igniter, and now the igniter sparks higher to the "lift-off top" and the flame ignites everytime. Without that added heigt, the igniter just sparks uselessly around the base of the burner. There should be a higher igniter designed for the higher distance between the igniter and that removable top. Good luck with your own modification.

Screws holding burner base and ignitor were plain steel. If they had been stainless they probably would not have rusted in so tight. One in the base broke off, and the one holding the ignitor could not be removed, even with heat from a torch. I ended drilling it out and re-tapping the hole. If I wasn't mechanically inclined I would have had to give up and order a new burner base.

removed grate and cap.unscrewed burner plate.disconnected spark wire and replaced with new part.fired it up .now it workes again.

unscrewed old ignator---replaced w new--done deal!!!!