This is a burner electrode for your oven, range, or stove. This part has a male spade. It helps your burner ignite by creating a spark, producing a flame, and lighting the surface burner. If your burner will not heat properly, you may have to replace the burner electrode. Your electrode is located under your burner. This is an OEM replace...Read morement part that will be sourced from the genuine manufacturer. This part measures less than 1.5 inches long. It is sold individually. If you need a wire lead to complete your repair, you can purchase them locally.
This is a multi-use and multi-appliance screw. It can be used on a microwave, refrigerator, range/oven, air conditioner, dehumidifier, washer, or dryer. The measurements of this screw are 8 x 1/2 inch. It has 6 threads. Refer to the manual provided by the manufacturer for further information on repair and accurate guidance. Remember to wear work gloves as a safety precaution.
This is the burner head and electrode for your gas range. If your gas igniter glows but will not light, or if the element will not start or heat entirely, you may need to replace the burner head. This burner head is approximately 4¼ inches in diameter and is sold individually. Please note that the mounting screws for this burner head are ...Read moresold separately. To replace the burner head, simply unscrew the old, defective burner head and screw in the new one.
This blower wheel attaches to the ventilation motor to draw in and exhaust smoke, steam, and cooking vapors, helping maintain clean airflow in your kitchen. Built from durable metal for heat resistance and long-lasting performance, it measures approximately 7 inches in diameter and under 4 inches deep for a secure, efficient fit. Designed...Read more to spin smoothly on the motor shaft, replacing a worn or damaged blower wheel can restore proper airflow, reduce noise, and ensure reliable ventilation performance.
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Ignitor stopped working on gas cooktop
87 of 91 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Jeff from Lake Orion, MI
Difficult
More than 2 hours
Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
As others reported, there are 2 torx screws that need to be removed so that the burner element can be removed. One came out with a little effort, the other one did not as it was corroded. After breaking a torx bit, a second torx bit succeeded in breaking off the screw head. This then required a drill to drill out the broken shaft and th
... Read moreen rethreading the screw hole. On to the ignitor replacement. The tiny screw holding the ignitor was corroded and would not come out. It too had to be drllled out and rethreaded. It was a 1/3" #4 screw with fine threads. Had to get it an appliance repair store as the local hardware places don't carry fine threaded screws. Finally got it all put back together after a week. My advice before ordering an ignitor is make sure you can take the current burner off the cooktop first to do the repair in the first place. BTW, the ignitor I ordered came quickly and was the correct part!
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The ceramic insulator on the burner ignitor cracked & the spark shorted so that the burner would not ignite.
32 of 35 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Loren from San Luis Obispo, CA
Really Easy
Less than 15 mins
Screw drivers
Firts I removed the 2 screws that held the burber in place. Then I lifted the burner up & disconnected the wire that connected to the ignitor. Then I removed the one screw that held the ignitor to the burner. I then reversed these steps, replacing the cracked ignitor with the new one, replaced the screw holding it to the burner, then reco
... Read morennected wire, returned the burner to the stove and replaced the two screws that held it. All Done!
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Burners kept clicking after ignited
32 of 36 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Robert from Ranchos de Taos, NM
Really Easy
15 - 30 mins
Screw drivers
This problem was driving me crazy for months. Of course, after I bought and installed the part and it still was not fixed I finally found a website that told me how to fix the clicking. The problem is that the removable head burners (#8 on the top assembly diagram) are not making good electrical contact with the base burners (#22). What I
... Read more did was grab the head burners and grind them back and forth into the base burners with the weight on the heal of my hand. Steel wool or sandpaper would work too--you just want to clean the surfaces to restore electrical contact. If you still want to know how to replace the spark module start by removing #24. This will allow the removal of #9 (after you take the knobs off). You may have to do some fiddling cause the rubber gasket is sticky. Next there are 2 obvious regular screws for #14 and 2 not so obvious star screws in the space where the burner valves are. After #14 is off there are 2 screws on the spark module to be removed and one that you can't loosen that is in a slot. You wriggle the module out of that one.