KGCD807XBL02 KitchenAid Cooktop - Instructions

It was very simple two Phillips head screws to remove the burner and one screw to remove the ignitor. It was probably less than a 5 minute job per burner. Unfortunately one burner had a very rusty screw holding the ignitor and the head stripped out. I tried a stripped screw removal tool with no success so I used a drill press to drill the screw out. It still took less than 30 minutes. Now both burners work like new

Installed new spark module by removing back panel of stove. Removed two screws holding old module. Disconnect lines, marking colors. Installed new. Problem not solved. Out $128 since new module was not returnable after install.
Called Judd and Black service department. Tech came on service call. Said it was bad gas valve. They ordered part. Than needed two weeks to install. I installed it and problem persisted. Could not return part because I installed it myself. Out $180. I had cleaned ignitor with alcohol from top. Took apart cooktop and cleaned from bottom. Problem fixed for free. Out over $500 in parts and labor.

removed the two screws holding the burner to the cooktop, disconnected the wire clip from the electrode then removed worn out electrode from burner. Re-attached the new electrode to the burner, re-attached the igniter wire then put the burner assembly back onto the cooktop

Unscrewed burner assembly and removed wire. Unable to remove electrode screw. Striped head of screw. Tried penetrating oil but no luck. Tried to drill and use easy out bit but ruined burner assembly and had to order new burner assembly. When assembly came it had electrode in place but website does not show electrode with assembly except on one burner. With mail and all it took about a week to fix 2 burners. Returned unused electrode for credit. Overall, cheaper then a service call by far.

Removed the two fastening screws with a small square head screwdriver,lifted the burner head disconnected wire from damaged electrode. To install just reversed the steps,total time less than ten minutes.

Replaced burner assembly.

The porcelain cracked on the burner igniter, it wouldn’t spark and light the flame. I got tired of using the fireplace lighter to light this main burner.

If you have to replace your igniter, it should be very very easy. Remove the two torx screws Holding the cast iron burner to the stainless steel top. Pull it up and the wire connected to the igniter should pull through the small hole in the stainless steel top. Turn the cast-iron base over, pull the wire off, and there is a little screw Fastening the igniter to the bottom of the cast-iron Base. Remove the old igniter and screw the new igniter in place, reattach the wire, and screw the base down to the stainless steel top. That’s it, or how it should be. After years of spaghetti water, gravy, etc. boiling over, I was only able to remove one of the torx screws after using some WD-40 and a torch to heat it up. The other screw sheared off at the head. And a little screw holding the igniter in place, the Phillips head was stripped! I had to leave the roof or the igniter in place, break off all the porcelain, and then break the rest of the metal off leading the screw in place. So I had to use my Dremel grinder to remove some of the metal on the new igniter, then use some tinfoil underneath it to stabilize it in place and then tighten the cast-iron base down using only one screw. Even with one screw and using the tinfoil, it is stable and everything works now. This $27 part was a heck of a lot cheaper than paying $5000 for a new range top!

Installation is simple and very straight forward. Problem, was i stripped the torx screw to release electrode because the screw was frozen. I then tore electrode out leaving space to use penetrating oil (inaffective ) then using a chisel to pop the screw out. It came out intact and did not damage the threads in the burner. So what could have been a 20 minutes job, turned into over an hour. But still worth doing myself.

Removed the gas deflector; unscrewed the burner body; pulled off the ignition wire; unscrewed the bad electrode; screwed in the replacement electrode; reversed the steps. Voila! Perfect operation once again. My one mistake? Ordered the wrong electrode initially. Make sure you get the right part the first time around.

This should be a 5 min job. Lift off the burner cover, remove two screws to lift of the burner base and then remove a Phillips head screw that hold the burner igniter in place.

Unfortunately, the screw holding the burner igniter was rusted and it could not be loosened. WD-40 did not touch it. I used a stronger penetrant, "Blaster". Still it would not budge. Then I used a small Phillips head screwdriver and a hammer which I used as an impact driver. I twisted the screwdriver slightly to loosen and hit it was a hammer. Then I twisted the screwdriver slightly to tighten and again hit it with a hammer. After the penetrant and a couple of more tries, the rusted screw finally moved!!!

With no rust, this should be an easy 5 minute replacement. The burner now works great!!!

First reviewed other review on this repair. Disconnected ignitor system from electrical source (pulled plug); removed 2 screws holding casing in place; removed it from the cooktop; & removed additional screw holding ignitor. Replaced ignitor and reversed the process. Done.

Removed two star screws from the top of the burner, disconnected the wire going to the Ignitor, removed the old ignitor held in with one phillips screw, installed new ignitor and re-installed the burner assembly. Simple!

Ordered a replacement, removed the old burner and installed the new one. Works perfectly.

Removed two screw securing wburner and disengage igniter.

Just align knob where it says off on the knob and off on the range and Pop it on. No tools needed.