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Rocker on switch broke off
Eased the putty knife under the edge of the switch housing and pried it off. Pulled two wires off the old terminals and hooked them onto the new one and reinstalled into the refrigerator body.
This problem is caused by a "Duckbill" rubber grommet attached to the bottom drain tube of the freezer. This duckbill opens up during the defrost cycle and allows water to drain down the "water slide" to the evaporator pan. It doesn't take much to gum the Duckbill. Once gummed up the defrost water is trapped. The Defrost Cycle eventually makes the water flow out of the coil area to the bottom of the freezer then eventually to the floor. The repair involves unplugging the unit, removing the bottom back cover with a 1/4 nut driver, pop the power clip out to give you room, reach in and pull the duckbill grommet and the water slide, then installing this replacement drain kit. This is a p trap replacement that actually fixes the root cause of this problem. A tricky part is removing the water slide, you can see the white snap that holds the slide in place. Using a small flat blade from the top releases the snap and the unit is pulled upward rather easily. This replacement drain clip snaps in the same place. If I had to do this again it wouldn't take more than two minutes to replace. Oh, one major thing, you need to manually defrost the unit. I pulled the front door off, it is held with 4 screws ... don't remove them just loosen them and it pops off easily. I pulled the bottom tray out an it gave me room to squirt hot water with a baster into the back freezer area. Eventually everything thawed out. If I had it to do over I would have waited on connecting the tube to the evaporator pan and placed the bottom of the tube into a small sauce pan or something to collect the drain water and easily dump it into the sink. I used a sponge and that took forever. BTW, just to reiterate, use this item and not that Duck Bill for replacement, this actually fixes the root cause of this problem!
Removed the access panel on back of unit located the Run Capacitor on the compressor and removed the bad one and put the new one on and pugged refrigerator back in and it started up and works fine now
bulbs were not burnt out. received the new switch in a few days. watch the short video, was good to see how it comes out. used a putty knife to release the defective switch, removed wires put them on the new one and posed the new switch back in. Not bad Part cost $11.00 7 dollars shipping so for 17 bucks it works great. nice to see what is inside the refer!
Refer lights not working, there are two lights and neither worked. Decided the switch was the problem.
The switch fix but did not fix the problem. I assumed the wires go on the same way as on the old switch. Is it possible if one light Burns out, the other will not work either?
Everything went as planned except the cold temperature (freezer door switch located inside freezer) made deflection of the switch locking tab difficult to remove. Letting the switch warm up was not an option.
Unsnapped and pulled off small cover exsposing two phillips head screws. I removed larger cover and styrofoam insert fully exsposing the damper unit. i unplugged same and with a 1/2 inch wood chisel was able to release the "snaps" holding the old unit in place. Simply reverse procedure to install new unit.
