JSD2488GEW Jenn-Air Refrigerator - Instructions

First unplug AC power from the back of the refrigerator and I then removed entire fountain bracket assy that hold by 3 screws. Pull toward with some angle to able to access to a plug of wires and then disconnect it. Pull fountain assy downward. Set it on work place, remove all screws and transfer wires, switch, ice dispenser controller unit,solenoid, spring, flapper...and then install them to a new fountain bracket. Please note that this problem is 100% relating to mechanism. To test this work: Hold Fountain bracket assy vertically, press a flapper,position "open" and make sure return spring is working properly (enough pressure) . Now, install this unit back to my refrigerator. During installing screws, check flapper that can shut tightly enough and secure all screws, check a flapper again. I got it right for the third time because I was not aware of some parts alignment.

I Removed the two wires from the old relay. I Then pulled the old relay off the compressor. Next, I had to get the overload seperated from the old burnt relay, which took some care not to break. The old relay and overload is in a plastic compartment. Then I followed the directions that came with the new relay. The only confusion came with getting the two wires back onto the terminals of the new relay, mainly because the old relay was burnt so badly I didn't have any idea how it was originally wired. I crossed the two wires on the terminals of the relay. The compressor would click off and on, but would not start blowing cold air. I swapped the wires on the terminals and it started working immediately.

I don't know anything about repairing a refrigerator - I'm a computer tech. I noticed that the outside of the fridge was warm to the touch and the inside was not getting as cold as it should. I took the lower back panel behind the fridge off and noticed that the fan was not spinning. The local parts dealers did not have the condenser fan motor that was needed but they did say that they do go bad. I decided to order one from PartSelect.com and do it myself. Using a 1/4 inch nut driver and a flat head screw driver to pry the old motor out of the casing, I got the job done in about an hour or so. It's a relativly easy job. Besides the ouside panel screws, there's 3 screws on the inside near the fan blades you have to reach in to get. Pop out the whole assembly, unscrew the nut that holds the blades on and pry out the old motor and replace.. Try it yourself and save a couple hundred bucks!

getting it apart wasn't to bad. except when the small part that functions with the door flap fell out before i could see how it was installed orginally. after a few moments of trail and error figuired it out. previous messages you had posted from other customers helped alot, especially the gentleman who said screws were left handed made a big differance in getting it apart. glad you had the part.
works great.

Very simple. Matched female plugs with respective male color coded prong; pushed together then inserted unit in slot of freezer sidewall and rotated into position...job done.

followed the instructions provided and that's it!

I had to cut off the old yoke since the threads had stripped and it would not come off. Once I did that all I had to do was to remove 4 screws on the auger motor and replace it with the new auger motor. Then I put the yoke on the new auger motor shaft and then put the unit back in the freezer. Work time was less than 15 minutes with no problems.

Removed about 6 screws. Replaced the solenoid and door kit. Replaced the screws. These parts were easy to replace. They were also super easy to identify and order from the site. I received them two days after I placed my order.
Thanks partselect.com!

Replaced the water valve with the new part by removing 2 screws to allow folding back of the cover, removing 1 screw and pulling valve assembly out. 1 more screw took the two valves apart, unscrewed the water lines, replaced them on new valve (with newer push-in connections it was even easier), reassembled unit, turned the water on, checked for leaks, none found. Works great, was very easy.

Overall, replacing the ice maker wasn't too bad but it wasn't nearly as easy for me as it seems to have been for some. In my case, the fridge was an Amana and the ice maker was mounted in such a way that disconnecting the power connector was difficult. The ice maker had to be completely dismounted before any access to the power connector was even possible. The short power cables made it very difficult to get the ice maker into a position where I had a good view of the power connector enabling me to see how to release it. The only other challenge was the cup that the water line goes into. The replacement ice maker did not come with the right cup - the instructions said to replace the provided one with the old one. No instructions for this procedure were provided and it looked to me like it might involve significant disassembly, something I wanted to avoid for fear of breaking a plastic part on the new ice maker (something I had already done when disassembling the old ice maker). So instead of replacing the cup, I modified the new one to match the old one. This involved removing a cutout on one side and covering a hole on the other. Installation of the new ice maker went fine and the water leak problem was fixed.

R & R Icemaker Assembly. Took out 3 screws and unpluged Icemaker & replaced with new part. very easy and the service from PartSelect was fantastic.
Very Satisfied,
Ron Martin

1. Turn off fridge and Pull plug from wall.
1a. Turn OFF water supply!
2. Remove rear dust cover to gain access to water valve.
3. Mark power connectors(red/green) attached to water valve before removing them. Remove connectors.
4. Remove supply line from old valve.
5. loosen mounting screw holding old valve in place.
6. remove valve.
7. disconnect two plastic water lines from valve.
8. Cut 1/2 inch off the end of each plastic line to get to un-streached line. Make sure you have enough line to still reach valve!
9. Insert plastic lines FIRMLY into outlets of NEW VALVE to lock in place. outlets are different sizes so you can't reverse them!
10. Install new valve and tighten mounting screw.
11. replace/tighten supply line to new valve.
13. Replace dust cover!
14. Plug in, Turn on fridge.
15. Turn on water supply, bleed air out by drawing a glass of water at door, and check for leaks!
All Done!

unplug refridgertor shut water off. took off water line at valve un plug wires unsrew mounting valve. srew water line back plug wires back and mount vavle. turn on water. plug refridgertor in

Icecubes came out half-way, and refrooze. I figured out, that the melter does not work (HEATER in the icemaker) Voltage measured 105V no load. Studied the Internet, and folloved an advice: shorted the back wire and the blackwire with white stripes.these go to relay contacts. It seems, that the relay contacts are no good on Infrared receiver boaed. I turn off manually the icemaker, when needed

Received the union I ordered, then discovered that the tubes were different sizes, so I had the wrong part. I had read elsewhere that it was necessary to trim the two ends of the tubes with a box cutter to stop the leaks - I did this, and the leaking stopped. I was then able to go to a local hardware store and get a 5/16 to 1/4 union and replace it. The leaking is stopped, and the water supply in the door is now working like new. No problem with partselect, but I did buy a caliper so that I can check tube diameters if I ever have a similar problem! This is a great site to find instructions - well worth the time to search!