JDG3000W Jenn-Air Dryer - Instructions

Started by buying the High limit Thermostat by its self that did not correct the problem. Bought the High Limit Kit that had the thermostat and thermal fuse (for less dollars) that corected the problem.

First I unplugged the dryer and shut off the gas. I popped the top loose at the front and raised it up on its rear hinges. I removed the two retaining screws near the top of the front panel, unclipped the door switch and removed the front panel. I rotated the drum by hand to cause it to rattle and noticed the blower impeller was barely turning. I then removed the panel in front of the blower and found part of the shaft that clamps to the motor shaft had broken off. This explained why no heat was reaching the dryer drum and why the ratttle was so bad and continued for a few seconds after I turned the dryer off. I removed the clamp and the retaining clip and the blower impeller and replaced all three parts with new ones. This is the second appliance I have repaired in the past month and I cannot believe how quickly I received the parts from PartSelect.com. In both cases replacement parts arrived within one day of ordering them and the operator was very helpful and patient helping me order the correct parts. NOTE: The original impeller had a round hole and was held in place on a "D" shaped motor drive shaft by a clamp and retaining clip. The new impeller had a "D" shaped hole and was very dificult to install on the shaft. Before reassembling all the panels on the dryer, I made sure the impeller was on straight and turned freely without striking any panels. I also spent a considerable effort cleaning a huge amount of lint and dust out of the dryer. My dryer now works perfectly and quitely. It is nice to have it back.

I bought from you and received part in timely manner. I got it out of the box and replaced. It's better than the one I got new with dryer. Thanks, P.Blades.

Lifted top off dryer using a putty knife to release it. Took off front door using a nutdriver, disconnected door switch. Put door to side and reconnected switch. Dryer would turn on but the igniter would not come on. Disconnected gas valve assembly from gas line. One bolt holds the igniter assembly and gas valve. Took out whole assembly and replaced the igniter. Old igniter had a hairline crack. Put it all back together and Works like a charm. Also cleaned out tons of lint from interior.

unhinged top panel. removed front panel. installed belt and reinstalled front and top panel.

I removed the old door seal and installed the new one algining the slots with the inserts and the seals. Old filter out, new filter in. Install was successful but dryer still not drying even though it's producing heat. I guess I will need a replacement.

Replaced the flame sensor since it was believed to be the problem contributing to the lack of flame in this gas dryer. However, this part did not correct the problem.

open machine up and replaced the new belt.

removed frt cover & drum, replaced solenoids, cleaned the unit interior

just took off the front panel took off the belt and replaced it with the new one we watched the video pretty easy

My suggestion is to read all of the items that may result in no heat, or insufficient heat, you will find your problem in one of the reply's and the right part to replace. The repair was made much easier, as I installed a Maintenance kit at the same time. Drum rollers, drive belts and tensioner. With the drum out, the coil retaining clip was a LOT easier to re-instal. If the drum isn't out, you can lift the drum up a little and squeeze a stubby screw driver in to loosen the retaining screws. You have to use the proper size screwdriver so you don't strip the screws, and maybe a pair of gas pliers around the handle of the screwdriver to give it a little torque to help loosen the screws, while keeping downward pressure on the screwdriver.

I just knew it had to be the heat sensor unable to activate the actual ignition. I following the directions and video for the installation of the heat sensor #PS344761. It went very smoothly. Upon completion of the installation, the click, then the flame roared to life and I felt like a real do-it-selfer!! This was short lived. The wetness of the clothes had no effect. Something I did not do and I certainly know better was to check and see what was taking place before I replaced the "damaged" sensor. No, I was just so sure there was no need of that. You say, put the old back in and watch what happens....I recycled the old one immediately. Sigh! We have had two weeks of rain and I'm really tired of damp clothes everywhere. I will read other alternatives and report back. DClark, TX

Pulled up a You-Tube vid on how to install the belt. Went perfect.

i first watched a video on U-Tube and did exactly as they did. removed screws from the lint tray, pried up the top panel of the dryer with my putty knife, unscrewed the 2 hex screws at the top, disconnected the plug for the dryer door,and installed the new belt it really was pretty easy. the only thing I would recomend would be when installing the belt put towel or anything that would protect your arm from the botttom piece of sheet metal. I got a pretty good cut on my forearm while I was putting the belt on the bottom pully.

unplugged dryer and removed front panel. removed the screw that holds flame sensor and unplugged electrical wires. then replaced with new. Did not solve problem so I ordered the replacement coil kit and installed them using phillips screw driver and this solved problem. Dryer is working fine now. I found this site very helpful and would recommend it to a friend.