HTW200ASK1WW Hotpoint Washer - Instructions

Drain all the water out of the tub with a shop vac
Remove rear drain hose and drained rest of water into a bucket
Remove small rear panel (bottom left hand corner) where the drain hose connects
Tipped washer up about 45 degrees to get underneath it - Supported it with a few paint cans
Remove internal drain hose/clamps from pump - w/ pliers
Remove belt cover (gray plastic) with socket - 3 bolts
Remove wire assembly plug from socket
Remove old drain pump with socket - 3 bolts
Install new drain pump - 3 bolts - plug wire assembly into socket
Reinstall belt cover - 3 bolts
Reinstall hose to drain pump (note panel will be inside washer)
Feed drain hose panel through hole and reinstall - 1 nut
Re attached drain hose to exterior drain plug
You are done !

Very simple to repair. Be sure to drain the tub outside or into the sump pump then lay the washer on its side. The pump is right there on the bottom of the basket with 3 bolts. You will also need to remove the belt cover to get to the plug. So simple and saves you hundreds off repair man prices.

Lift up door removed lid lock with screwdriver installed new part

Laid washer on the floor to expose the bottom. Cleaned up the residual water that leaked out on to my hardwood floor. Removed the three nuts that hold the belt cover on. Slipped off the two year old stretched, oil soaked serpentine belt. Cleaned the rugged plastic pulleys with alcohol. Put on new belt. Small serpintine pully first, then rotate pulley to install belt to large pulley. Easy fix but doomed to fail again soon. Seals are Junk on the transmission. They leak oil already. Washer is JUNK. Not my first rodeo with GE garbage. It needs a new transmission to truly fix the problem. When it fails again out to the curb it goes. 2 years old, just two in the house so usage was minimal. No more GE appliances for me.

Use putty knife to unlock top panel from base. Remove 2 bolts from back of washer holding control section. Don't take completely off. 2 bolts needs to be removed to unsecure top from base. Lastly 2 screws hold lid in place. Remove lid. Slide top panel to left just to access lid lock. Unplug sensor. 1 screw and tabs hold lock in place. Watch position coming out so you don't get confused putting new lock in. Squeeze tabs, replace screw. plug in sensor. Reverse procedure to put top section back together.

The replacement part looked absolutely nothing like the defective part. The old part was easily accessible and was easily unplugged from the wiring harness. I assume when the new part came, I would just plug it into the wiring harness, snap some of the trim pieces in place and be done. 5 minutes. But no. The replacement part was completely different and came with its own wiring harness and length
of wire which had to be installed. The installation of the wiring harness was extremely complicated which involved popping off the control panel of the washer, prying up the top and disconnecting some other pieces to complete the install. There should have been a clear warning on the replacement part, that it was completely different and likely too difficult for a non-professional repair man.

Tilt washer back.
Remove belt gaurd.
Remove belt.
Remove pulley.
Remove clutch and shifter.
Install in reverse order

Unplug the connector to the old lock release. Plug the connector into the new lock release. Snap in the tabs that hold it into place. Then the bezel just snaps in and you're good to go!

Replacing was easier than opening the box it came in. Used a 7/16 socket and a few extensions to reach the bottom of the agitator. It came out super quick cleaned out the fabric softener older than my kids from under it. Lined up the groves of the new one and it slid easily. I took a small piece of painters tape and crumbled it into a small ball and put it in the socket to keep the bolt in place while it lowered it into the agitator. Made it snug and we were back in business good as new!!!

Removed the two 1/4" hex screws (one on each side of the control panel). Lifted the control panel off and let it hang behind the washer. Removed the connector on each side of the valve assembly. Removed the two 1/4" hex screws on the valve assembly and lifted the assembly out. Reversed the process to install.

I unplugged the machine from the power source and removed the drain hose from the back and allowed any remaining water to drain out of the machine. I then tipped the machine back so that I could work underneath it and secured it in that position. I removed the old drain pump assembly by first disconnecting it from the outflow hose, then removing the three bolts which held the motor housing cover on and disconnecting it from the power source. This part was the the most difficult and time-consuming as the wires are plugged in very tightly but once those were separated, it was just a matter of unscrewing the drain pump assembly from where it was anchored to the underside of the washing machine. I simply reversed those steps to install the new one and it was in place within 10 minutes. Set the washing machine down in the correct position, reconnected the drain hose, and plug the machine in. I did reset the fault codes by using the manual found taped to the underside of the machine, but this was very simple to do and only took a few minutes. I’m not sure if it was necessary to do that step at the machine works perfectly now. I am a woman and found this repair very easy to do.

Dipped water out as much as possible,tited washer at a 45 degree angle and propped it up. Took the 3 bolts out holding the pump assembly and the 3 bolts holding the belt guard.Unplug wire connecter,pull out assembly and than pull drain hose off of assembly. Reinstall the same as you take apart. Was a easy fix, and worked as it should.

Put washer on it side. Removed shield belt and pulley from motor.
Unplugged and unsnapped speed sensor and replaced with new one . Washer spinning like it should. Problem solved

part select help

unplugged old part plugged in new, took about 2 minutes.

this is a great web site, I didn't have to wait for a serviceman to come. and maybe not have the part and come back again. ........thanks