GSS20IEPHWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

The ice machine auger blade broke a chunk off. I decided to try to replace it myself. I bought the new auger blade and then sat there and stared at it and the ice machine for a few, trying to figure out how to change out the part. Turns out it was a qute lengthy process. The auger is threaded on one end and the ice chopping blades are on it. So I had to take each blade off the old one and put it on the new one. The blades have to be positioned just right on the shaft so it's best to just draw a line down over all the blades so as to put them on the new auger successfully. The problem I had was the end cap that screwed on the end of the shaft. It was the part I ordered here. It is made of plastic with plastic threads and at first I couldn't figure out to get it off. Turns out the threads are opposite normal. By the time I figured that out, I had just about destroyed the cap using pliers to try to unscrew it. There is a washer and half moon clip that fastens on this end nut so if you mess the nut up, chances are you won't be able to get the half moon clip to go back on. I finally did it right and now how the ice maker working right again. A hard part for me was figuring out how to set the spring shaft that works a lever to either give cubed ice or crushed. I had to keep fiddle with it before I finally got that right. At first I was only getting crushed ice even with the cubed setting and then only getting cubed ice with the crushed ice setting. After some fiddling, I got both to work but to this day can't figure out what changes from the crushed setting to the cubed setting.

First, I removed all the shelves and the light guard. Second, I removed the nuts that held the fan guard and the freezer back in place (2 just under the fan guard and removed the freezer back. Third, lifted fan guard out of way (being very careful not to crack it..... cold plastic). Fourth, unpugged fan from pug then removed nuts that held fan bracket in place...removed fan. fifth, then removed fan blade and remove fan motor from bracket, removed two wires that went to freezer light (pay attention to where they go) and installed them into the new wireing harness. Sixth, installed fan blade on new motor, bolted new assembly in fan bracket, plugged in and reistalled fan into the freezer, replaced fan guard and freezer back (reverse order of above) and then replaced freezer racks. works beautiful.

Removed the front panel on the door that has the ice maker controls. Removed the screws and parts. Reassembled the parts and it works better than new. Ice door closes firmly and holds tight.

First I removed the vegetable drawer and glass shelf. I matched up the 'new' drawer slide rail next to the broken slide.
I then used a phillips head screwdriver to remove the 2 screws that held the slide in place.
After removing the broken slide rail, I installed the new rail, replaced the vegetable drawer and glass shelf. New item worked like a charm.
The drawer slide arrived really quick after my order was placed. Approx. 2 days after ordering the part, it was on my front door step.

removed ice tray, removed drive unit. removed solenoid and replaced, screwed on auger drive. reinstalled drive assembly. replaced ice tray. job done.

First my wife and i took the panel off the back, unscrewed the old mainboard, unplugged all the switches from it and prayed that the new one would work. We were without a fridge for 2 weeks beginning 2 days before Christmas!!!!! Gingerly, we put the new board in place, screwed it into the fridge, connected the switches, attached the ground wire, and held our breath as we plugged it back in. Within seconds, the familiar sound of water filling the icemaker was hear and there were cheers all around!!!

From Google to PartsSelect. Reading the forum, the consensus was that to fix the nonworking dispensers the main refrigerator motherboard had to be replaced. I ordered it which is easy to do because the diagrams show all the parts clearly. Great website. I also ordered the front trim piece because I had snapped one of the prongs holding it on. They arrived quickly. The trim just snaps on the front which takes a few seconds. The motherboard which is just a circuit board, even came with replacement instructions. It takes a few minutes to wheel the refrigerator out, then take off the back panel (3 screws), unplug all the connectors, unsnap the circuit board, snap the new one in, plug the connectors in, reattach the back panel, and wheel the refrigerator back to the wall.

The water dispenser promptly froze up. To make sure that it is not the solenoid valve, unhook the water hose under the freezer door. Pressing in the water dispenser should pump water out of the hose onto the floor. It did for me. Since there is only plastic tubing after that, it has to be clogged with ice. I took a thermocouple, inserted the wire into the water dispenser outlet, it would only go in about 3 inches and displayed 31 F. I took a plastic funnel which slipped onto the end of the outlet and used a blow dryer to heat up the outlet a lot several times. Eventually the ice unfroze and it has been working ever since. I think if this happens again, I'll get a cheap aquarium aerator to pump air, for the hours it might take, through a thin tube (using wire insulation) to the frozen spot to melt the ice.

While the refrigerator was away from the wall, I took off the screws holding the large bottom panel in the back off. This exposes the condenser cooling which visually needed to be cleaned off with a vacuum cleaner. After doing this, it seemed to make the refrigerator run much more efficiently.

The refrigerator has been working perfectly for past month and it makes me so happy.

Checked the internet for reports of similar problems and concluded that it was probably the main control board. Not being particularly handy, I would never have attempted to change the board myself if I had not read the comments and instructions from people on this site. Thanks.

The job was as straight forward as others have described. The only time I had a problem was pushing in the white tab to be able to pull the old board out. That was a bit of a fiddle.

The only thing I found different was the grounding wire. On the original board, this wire was at the bottom of the board and hooked into a wire that ran into the refrigerator. On the new board, the wire was at the top of the board and had a metal loop on it. If I understand it correctly, with the new grounding system the wire is pushed into the space above the board. Then when the back plate is reattached the metal loop makes contact with it , thus grounding the refrigerator.
I chose to run the grounding wire through the original wire into the refrigerator. That meant cutting off the metal loop, slicing in an extra piece of wire to connect the grounding wire on the board to the grounding wire into the refrigerator.

I also now use a surge suppressor for the refrigerator. The “Moaning Myrtle” syndrome started after Hurricane Ike. I suspect the surge when the power was restored damaged the control board. And as so many people seem to have this “Moaning Myrtle” problem, I suspect the control board has little or no surge protection.

My husband did the repair, and even though our refrigerator is roughly 20+ years old, he was able to adapt it to work in all the right spots and we now have ice cubes! I'm very happy we did not have to spend $2000 on a comparable refrigerator.

The existing light switch was very hard to remove. I ended up having to grab it with a pair of pliers and pull it out. Once it was out, it was very easy to put in the replacement and it seems to be working fine.

I had taken the noise long enough and wanted to get this repaired. I didn't want to pay a repair man hundreds of dollars to do it so i decided to do it myself. I went on to YouTube and found a few videos that showed me how easy it was to do (very helpful).

I wasn't so sure all that noise would come from the Evaporator Fan motor so i ordered it and took the chance. For the small cost, it was worth the try.

All went well accessing the unit and removing the old part. Very fast indeed. However, the snag came when i went to plug in the new part electrical to the existing electrical adapters. The old part had 4 lead connections. The new part had 6. and the wires on the new part were different colors than the existing. I had to use some logic and courage to cut the wires on the new part and rewire the old adapter to this piece. Luckily, i wired everything correctly.

Calling Part Select got me a phone number for the parts manufacturer to help with the splicing but i opted to do it on my own.

The result is i have a noiseless refrigerator again. What should have taken 10 to 15 minutes took half an hour because of the wiring but overall, very easy.

I watched the "how-to" video on the website and decided that I needed to disassemble the icemaker first (before ordering parts) so that I could make sure I was ordering all the parts necessary for a complete repair. Good thing I did. I didn't notice the cracked cover and chipped nut until I had the icemaker all apart. I then ordered the necessary parts. When they arrived 2 days later, I set up a table near my computer so I could re-assemble the unit as I watched the repair video...pausing the video as necessary. It all went without a hitch and worked perfectly when re-installed in the freezer. **Note: I left the old parts out of the ice bucket while I was waiting for the new ones to arrive...taped up the gaping holes in the ice bucket with blue painter's masking tape and re-installed the bucket in the freezer with the icemaker on...so I could still manually retrieve ice out of the bucket. I left the switch on the front of the freezer door in the "water" position to remind me that I couldn't dispense ice. Water dispensing worked fine. The video is the key. Impossible to make a mistake if you pay attention.

Removed 3 screws from end of ice storage box,then removed auger asm.Removed c clip on end with flat screwdriver, then disasembled ice crusher blades and nylon/plastic washers.Carefully staging them for reassembly in the correct way.Use pliers to reinstall c clip after new auger is installed

Read your instructions, which were very helpful, and followed them to install. It took a while for me to realize that the threaded cap at the end of the auger was a left-hand thread. Other than that, I had no problems.

After figuring out how to remove the old broken clip, replacement was easy. Had to use a small putty knife to open the release on the bottom underside of the clip(between the clip & the refrig) . By looking at the replacement piece it was easy to figure out.