Door would not close all the way - cold air leaked and condensation & ice formed in fridge.
After taking advice from the other posts, I removed all contents from the door, removed the screws from the top hinge and then lifted the door off the bottom hinge pin.
While door was lying flat I unscrewed the old natural closer, replaced it with the new one. Swapped out the old lower hinge pin with the new one.
I then had someone help me lift the door back on the hinge pin and fastened the top hinge screws while they held the door in place.
Lower hinge broke, causing the door to jump when open
It is the model with the french door. I unplugged it, removed two screws at the bottom of the door, while holding the door from sliding down. Removed the door and put it on its side. Removed one screw that was holding the hinge, removed the hinge and replaced it with the new one. Put the door back on (do not forget to reinstall the shims). Did the same thing on the other door. After putting the door back on readjusted the height to level the door, using height adjustment screw. Lock the door in place. It now works better then new
After going to manufacturer's web site and customer service phone, was unable to locate the correct switch in the dispenser area on the door. Your web site had the picture of the switch and it was right on and in stock. Shipping was quick and inexpensive. Repair went quick and all is well.
changed the light bulb still would not work so I figured it was the switch sure enough.
I took a chance and ordered a switch that is next to the top of the door. looked for how to remove it easily done in ten minutes works fine last long time.
The biggest problem I had was finding how to remove the old broken support. I did a google search and found the answer on your web page, grab it with pliers and rotate it 90 degrease then pull straight out. Installing the new one was even easier just do the reverse.
Disconnect plug from wall. Insert putty knife between light switch.and trim panel , apply pressure to depress plastic spring holding switch in place. Apply a slight twist too putty knife releasing switch from trim piece. This wil expose plug connected to switch. Disconnect plug from switch. Connect new switch to plug. Insert switch into trim. Plug refrigerator into wall socket.
The door switch was broken so the interior light would not come on.
The instructions in the package were not helpful. They wanted me to cut the wiring harness and described where to cut based on the wire colors. My wires were not the same color! I removed the light mechanism using a combination of a screwdriver, putty knife, and plain old muscle with my fingers! The wiring harness unplugged easily and the new one inserted. It was easy to push the whole assembly back into the door. I spent more time looking for something to cut the wiring harness with (and never did find it) than the whole job actually took without needing to cut anything!
First I removed the ice hopper, then I removed one 1/4 inch self tapper, then I removed six screws holding the motor ann solenoid. I then unplugged the wiring harness, the ice enclosure then pulled right out. I set the new one in place refastened the motor and solenoid, plugged the wiring harness in and put the self tapper back in and I was making ice.
I pulled the drive ring off of the icemaker and replaced it with the new part. Saved a $150 service call plus cost of part. It cost me a little over $11.00 and a repairman probably would have charged $30.
Popped out broken switch with blunt flat edged instrument. Disconnected switch from unit . Plugged new piece in and reinserted into side panel of refrigerator. Very easy.