GHW9100LW0 Whirlpool Washer - Instructions

Peel rubber gasket from drum; remove 3 screws using phillip head screwdriver; disconnect wiring e plugs; remove door lock. Install in reverse order.

removed screws on front control panel. found info sheet. read that this part was correct. replaced the motor control unit tho saw no damage on old unit and it works fine now.

door hook strike was broken half broke in the door the other half stayed in the lock i removed the one pcs from washer with pliers and on the door with a star wrench

twisted old shock absorbers out and snapped new one inplace...did not really fix my problem though

1-Unplug washer
2-Remove the bottom of the front washer cover 3 screws
3-Locate pump and loosen pump drain cover turn to left just a little enough for water to start draining.
4- Suck-up water with wet/ dry vac. Remove 1 screw holding pump.
5- Flip pump electrical cover up and disconnect wiring from pump.
6- Remove 2 hose clamps. The outlet was not to hard to remove, but the intake was not easy to get the pliers on.
7- Install new pump. See instruction to install. I didn't have to remove any ribs to install the connector as in the instruction sheet that came with the new pump. Also I didn't think it was very clear instruction.
8- Last installing the spring clamps. The outlet went okay, but the inlet I never could get on. I could not get the pliers on the clamp. I fooled around at least 20 min. trying to get the clamp on. I went out and bought a 3/4 to 1 3/4 stainless hose clamp with the worm drive design. That is what took so long.You may want to get new hose clamps before starting.
Other wise I did okay.

1) Removed back of washer
2) Removed nut holding pulley
3) Pulled pulley off shaft
4) Put new pulley on shaft
5) Replaced and tightened nut
6) Replaced belt on pulley
7) Replaced back panel
7) Washed pile of laundry

It was super easy...as the knob (Part No. 18 on our Whirlpool Duet Dryer) broke off cleanly leaving the metal pin exposed....(we had been turning it with pilers in the interim) so I just popped the new knob on and we were good to go! It was really easy to do and easy to locate the necessary part on your site. I won't hesitate to use your company and website again. Thank you for making all the parts available and saving us a service call!

Very simple repair:
- Turn off water and detach water supply hoses. (Good to have a bucket nearby to catch water left in hoses.)
- Remove 3 screws from the back of the lid; slide lid back 1" and lift off.
- Valve is mounted just under the lid on the back wall of the washer -- remove 1 screw from back of washer that holds valve assembly in place.
- Remove the 4 electrical connectors (2 black & 2 white) I numbered them with a sharpie so I wouldn't forget how to reattach them. :-)
- Use pliers to squeeze & slide the little hose clamp that holds the internal hose on the valve assembly. Once the clamp is out of the way, pull the hose off the valve assembly.
- Reverse the process to install the new valve assembly.

I ran into a little problem mounting the new valve assembly. The screw hole in the back of the washer did not line up with the mounting hole in the valve assembly. I had to drill a 3/16" hole just to the right of the original screw hole on the back of the washer. Used the new hole to mount the valve assembly, done.

remove 3 screws of top panel at rear. slide top to rear 1/2 inch and lift up. disconnect wire to flometer, remove clamps on hoses and remove, reverse to install. did not fix problem. ck'd screens at fill valves. ordered new fill valves--problem solved. solenoids must not have been opening up all the way.

Somehow a bobby pin got into the drain pump housing. When it started to drain, the pin was rammed through the housing.Extremely easy to remove and replace. No special skills needed. Whirlpool did a good job in making it idiot proof. Unpacking the part took longer than installing it. Don't be afraid to do this repair. If you own a pair of pliers and a screwdriver,you can do it.

Have to remove the front two sections of the washer and top- I had to remove the control panel too. POS kenmore gasket failed after about 2.5-3 years. Old gasket got holes in it - If you have a HE3 or HE4 model- look for it! you will get them too!!! Guaranteed.

Disconnected 2 hoses and 1 screw and remove3d the old pump and reversed the proceedure to install the new pump.A piece of cake. Thanks

I read the instructions once and then started. It was easy but did take an hour to do the entire job.

I first had to take off the back and the top to get to the pulley and the belt. The pulley had woobled so much that it had worn out the center nad it would no longer hold to the post in the tub. It also had cut into the back of the tub about a 1/4 to 1/2 inch. I unscrewed the nut holding the pulley and removed it. I then took a knife and trimmed the rough edges off the back of the tub to make it smooth. I then smoothed out the end of the post that the pulley fits on so the new pulley would fit. I tightned the nut and put the belt on the motor drive shaft and Used a robo grip to hold the belt as I turned it onto the pulley. I but the back and top back on and that was it.

This washer had been faulting since it was 1 year old but it only happened 1 to 2 times a year. As the fault problem became more often, I realized it was a hardware or computer malfunction. But what was the problem? Well the problem always was a faulty flow meter. I replace the valve and the flow meter. But I tested the flow meter several times.-- I replaced the flow meter and the valve. And for once in 5 years it did not fault.