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Squealing sound Idler arm and pulley
This is actually a white consolidated IND. brand, but that wasn't on your list. Be sure to check your tensioner pully if you hear squealing coming from the dryer. I changed the felt ring and the support bearing before realizing that my pully bushing was the cause of the noise. If you have squealing then spray a little wd40 on the bushing and shaft, if the noise stops, then you found the smoking gun. Replace the pulley. Unhook the spring and it comes right off. No tools needed.
Unplugged the dryer from electrical socket. Vacuumed lint from dryer and exit hose. Removed top from dryer. Used pliers to remove the 2 wires from the thermal limiter. Used screwdriver to remove 2 screws that held the limiter in place. Installed the new limiter, connected the 2 wires, plugged in the dryer's electrical connection, turned on dryer, and resumed my "washday chores".
Dryer would not start. When turning on, I could hear faint humming, but the motor would not start.
1) Unplug the unit. 2) Remove all screws from top of the unit except for the one in the center front that does not go through the outer casing. 3) Find the Thermal Limiter which is on the back wall near the top on the left side when looking from the front. 4) Disconnect the two wires 5) Remove the two screws that mount the limiter to the back wall. 6) Use an ohmeter to test if a current flows through the unit. If no current flows through (an open switch), then the unit will need to be replaced. 7) Clean any lint that you can at this point. 8) Use two screws to mount new Thermal Limiter 9) Reconnect the two wires to the Limiter. 10) Attach the top of the dryer case.
I opened the top of the dryer to gain access to the outside of the drum. Then I removed the screws holding the old drum veins in using the electric drill with the nut driver attachment. Then I positioned the new veins in place on the inside of the drum and replaced the screws from the outside of the drum to hold the veins in place. Then I replaced the top and was ready to go.
This is the third repair that I have done using parts from parts select. the other two repairs involved replacing electrical parts. Specifically thermostatic controls or swicthes. I am very happy with the parts and the diagrams provided on your web site without wich I would have had to replace my dryer a long time ago.
This unit is a stackable washer&dryer,so first pull unit away from wall atleast 4 foot. Unplug power cord,then take10 dagree front panel off then the control panel off and unplug the 5 connetors if your unit has that many,then lay panel asside. Take dryer door off,makes it easier when putting it all back together. Now take front panel off and the dryer lent tube,now just take the 3 center phillips head screws out and slide drum out. Pull upward on what they call the shaft which held drum on. Now these are the parts you should order. Belt,grounding ball clip,grounding ball,drum support bearing,bearing bracket,and most important part is the shaft. The shaft is ur insurance for the whole job. Use a good grease like white lithium grease and coat the shaft end and the drum support bearing. The grease will cut down on friction for a while,and re assemble the way you took apart. Reminder grounding ball goes behind drum support bearing not in front. Good luck and please vaccum.
First: Remove front and top cover Second: remove electrical cover assbly Third: motor belt removed Fourth: drum assbly and bearing shaft and bracket bearing replaced Now I need urgently (already ordered) the thermostat and glide drum
After reading about similar problems people have had with this make of dryer, I focused attention on the thermal limiter. I determined that it was the culprit by "jumping" it with a 6" piece of wire. Then I simply went on the site, ordered the part. It arrived a few days later and I pulled out the old one, screwed in the new one, and the dryer is good as new.
0) Turned off breaker at panel and disconnected power cord from 240v wall outlet 1) Removed screws that hold electrical cover plate on back of dryer. 2) Lifted the top of dryer using putty knife on 2 top edges of lid. This lifts up like a cars hood. 3) Removed the screws that attach the power cord to the terminal block and disconnected power cord 4) Removed screws that attach terminal block to dryer 5) Removed melted terminals by prying out of terminal block. Note metal lip on terminal has to be lifted in order to slide connector out. Also unscrewed ground wire from terminal block to dryer. 6) Drew diagram of what color wires go to what terminals 7) Cut terminals off of wires and connected new terminals. Crimped closed and used butane solder torch to solder connection between terminal and wire 8) Reconnected terminals to terminal block by sliding in. **Note, had to file down the edges of the terminals using moto-tool to make it fit as they are connected together using break-away tabs that leave a large piece of metal connected not allowing to fit in terminal block 9) Reconnected terminal block to dryer and reconnected ground wire. 10) Reconnected power cord to terminal block with screws 11) Replaced cover over wiring terminal block 12) Reconnected power cored to 240ac wall outlet 13) Turned breaker back on
Had to pretty much disassemble the entire dryer. The schematics on the web site made it a snap to do. One word of advice. I you have to replace the rear drum assembly, the drum has to come out the front of the dryer. Part select made this a very positive experience.
Make sure you order a new belt and a new drum glide with the rear drum bearing assembly. If your bearing is worn out, so are the belt and drum glide!
1) Use a flat screw driver or putty knife to release the blind clips that hold the front side of the top of the dryer cabinet down 2) Swing dryer top up and remove two screws that hold the face of the cabinet. 3) Unplug the wiring harness and remove the cabinet face. 4) Remove the 3 screws that hold the drum to the bearing assembly (accessed from inside the drum. This makes it easier to remove the drum as the bearing assembly can be difficult to remove before you see how it snaps together 5) Reach under the drum and take the belt off the motor pulley, then remove the drum 6) Remove the old bearing assembly from the socket (slide up then out) 7) Remove the two screws that hold the bearing socket to the dryer 8) Fasten the new socket to the dryer (you'll need help doing this unless you have REALLY long arms because you have to reach inside the driver and the back of the dryer at the same time) 9) Grease the socket with the supplied high temp grease 10) Bolt the new bearing assembly to the drum and put the new belt around the drum 11) Put the drum back in and snap the bearing socket in and down 12) Guide the new belt around the motor pulley & tensioner 13) Glue the new drum glide / felt piece to the front cabinet 14) Put the cabinet back together
I contacted a company to come out and diagnose the problem. They informed me that the thermal limiter is bad and needed to be replaced for $15 for the part and $85 labor. I found the part on this site for about $10, and did the repair myself. The dryer was mostly dismantled so I pulled the drum back, and replaced the part. The tricky part was the pulley system was, so make sure you see it before hand or find a diagram online. Once that was figured out, I set the drum back up, greased and tightened the pulley, reattached the front of the washer with connections, and closed the lid.
I don't think it would take others as long as it took me. I had to take the drum out to get to the limiter. And my dryer is in a builtin housing with limited space in front of the dryer - so lots of manuevers to get access.
The limiter was very easy to find, thanks to diagrams on this site. The space between drum and limiter made it impossible to get to the limiter screws without removing drum. Found very helpful drum removal instructions on PartSelect here:
While changing power cable from 3 prong to 4 prong connection on a recently purchased used dryer I found the terminal block partially melted due to improper connectors which overheated. The bracket and cover were also missing which presented a shock hazard for anyone touching the exposed connections and there was no way to connect the strain relief. I disconnected the old 3 prong cable, removed the old terminal block, installed the new terminal block (required opening the dryer top for access), threaded power cable through bracket and fastened with strain relief leaving loose, attached the neutral/ground wires to middle terminal connection point, red to red wire in terminal block and black to black wire also in terminal block and tightened bracket and added cover.