FEP314BL0 Roper Range - Instructions

Removed all terminals and block mounting screws. Repaired one burnt terminal and reassembled. Replacement part was an exact fit and reassembly whnet very well.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires, Removed the old element and installed the new one

Two screws held the element in place, removed the screws and pulled the piece out.
Back of piece has two wires attached, unplug them then attach the new element and replace the two screws to remount.
First make sure the breaker to the range is turned off before starting the repair.

simply turned off power. took old element out, held in by two screws. pulled out far enough to take off wires. removed and replaced with new element. that was a purfect fit. Works great.

Removed 2 screws holding element in place. Pulled out element to access two wires. Slid off the old element connectors. Placed new element in place and attached the two wires. Pushed it back into place and replaced the screws. Done in 10 min max.

took out the old heating elments and cleaned the bottom & top of oven with out the elments in, which made it alot easier then put new ones in. They were very easy to do, just make sure you watch how you took old ones out and don't loose the screws cause you use them to put new ones in.

SUPER EASY! The part arrived very quickly. I turned off the circuit breaker, unscrewed the few nuts, pulled out the element and reversed the process. 'works beautifully! Thanks so much.

1993 model oven, built in wall model, so didn't to remove oven for the normal rear access to replace the lamp socket. As someone else posted, replacement can be done from inside the oven -- BUT the socket removal was more complex than just 'twisting it out.' But below worked! (1) Turned off oven power at circuit breaker panel. To facilitate working in the oven compartment, removed oven door (2 screws on back of door), raised the over door almost closed, put 2 large nails through the hinge holes when they lined up. Lifted the door out (heavy ~20-25 lbs) and put aside. (2) Put work light inside oven. (3) unscrew glass socket lens and the bulb). (3) Using inspection mirror, studied the inside of the socket to determine that its lock tab type and locations -> were on left and right sides of the socket. These tabs needed to be bent in, but they were each held out by a small circumferential length of think metal, a tab about 3/16" x 3/8". These small tabs could be moved/positioned by just finger friction, with a little start with a screwdriver tip on their edge! I got an end positioned to put sharp screwdriver under that end, then pried it (bent it) inward a short distance. Enough to use needle-nosed pliers to pull it completely out - came fairly easily. Repeated on other side of socket. (4) Then, with pliers, bent each of the 4 locking tabs inward a short distance, Used sharp tool to get one socket edge lifted a small amount; then use mini-pry bar and screwdriver to gently pry around the socket in steps, working evenly around its edge. At about 3/8", it was free. Lifted it inward gently so as not to damage the insulation of the 2 wires attached to its rear. Noted the direction of the wire tabs was straight up (keep same orientation on new socket). (5) Needle-nosed pliers on each connector to gently work the connectors off their socket tabs. Note one tab is larger than the other. Keep the wires inside the oven compartment. Don't damage the insulation. (6) Pushed the wire connectors onto their respective new socket tabs. Aligned socket with the tabs upward, and inserted it, careful to nurse the wires back into the oven wall hole; press socket into the hole, pushing it in evenly and firmly until flush. (7) Pushed in the new type bulb that came with new Socket. Turned on power, and light came on. (8) screwed on new glass cover. (9) Lifted oven back onto the hinge prongs. (easier with two people to get the prongs aligned and into their door slots.) Worked door left and right to get it to lower down fully. Removed nails, lowered door, and put its 2 screws back on. (10) Poured a glass of wine.

Open oven door. Still power to the wall, but all Knobs in "OFF" position. two phillips screws, pull old element back, and disconnect both leads. Put the leads on the new element and reinsert with two mounting screws. Simple.

The broiler unit had disintegrated at both connections. I removed the two screws in the top of the oven holder the unit, pulled out the unit, measured and ordered a replacement.

To replace the element, I pulled out the stove, removed the rear panel, located the connections for the broiler unit, remove parts of the old unit. I then attached the new unit to the top of the oven with the two screws, went around back and pushed in the two connections, replaced the back cover and replace the stove. It took about 30 minutes because I cleaned everything and sprayed bug spay (another plus for doing the repair myself).

Removed the ice brucket,
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.

Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.

1. Turn off oven.
2. Switch off circuit braker to oven.
3. Remove two screws holding element.
4. Pull element out to expose connectors.
5. Disconnect connectors and remove element.
6. Reverse procedure for installation.

grandson removed the two screws holding in the burned out unit and removed the two wires, installed them into the new unit and put the prongs into place. very easy and certainly very economic. delivery was quick and postage was reasonable. Thank you.

take off back panel, simply unplug the old switch and plug in the new one. Simple

This is a cook stove that is used 5 months a year. We have not fixed it yet because we are now in Florida the stove is in New York. We ordered that part just before we left NY for FL so the repair will be done in June of 2021.
George Clark