EER3000H01TW General Electric Range - Instructions

Performed repair using a video for reference.

Pulled stove out and unplugged. At the rear of the range there were 4 faster. Used a nutdriver piece in an electric drill. Pulled off the cover and located the switch. At the front of the stove, I removed the knob and unscrewed two screws releasing the switch. I undid and replaced each wire connector one-by-one to avoid any wrong connections. Replaced and secured the switch and replace the back panel. All secured, power on and fixed! Easy repair, but something that had been put off for a year!
Also follow the installation videos from PartSelect - very helpful!

Replaced element control switches

Replaced Electronic Control Board. Very easy to do with a nut driver and a screw driver to remove the old one. You may need a pair of needle nose pliers to remove Connector TB100 and TB101. Just squeeze the bottom of tabs to release connector. I also found that in the process of removing the Control Board label that it may rip in certain areas even while using a razor blade, so be prepared to purchase a craft paint brush and craft white paint to touch up the back of the label. It took 2 coats but looks like new..

The replacement Control Board works as advertised and I now have my oven working again. Save yourself the cost of a Service Company coming into your home just be prepared to do a bit of painting on the old label because it is really glued down and the new control board does not come with a new label.

I am a 62 year old woman with NO experience fixing appliances However I didn't have the money for a repairman so I ordered the part and googled "Hiw to change a heating element in a GE range". All the instructions were there and now my oven is working perfectly. I even posted on Facebook for my female friends to encourage them to do repairs themselves. What a GREAT feeling.

Killed braker first, removed four screws from back, then unplugged all the wiring, then removed four screw that hold the unit on stove, pealed off the face decal, put that on the new on and just reversed the take off press.

In this case I had to pull the range out to disconnect the power and also to remove the plate covering the electrical connectors. This was the only way to reconnect the elements terminals since the wires were too short to do it inside the oven. Undo the 2 screws holding the element in place from inside the oven to remove and install the new one before connecting the terminals from the back. Put back the rear cover and reconnect the power.

Took back cover panel off (upper) and removed the 4 1/4 inch nut screws. Used nut driver and removed the 4 screws holding control panel in place. Put new panel in place and unhooked electrical connections and installed on new panel. Plugged stove back in and checked operation. All OK, so then put back cover on and everybody is happy.

Removed door from range(see manual for instructions). Set door face down on protective cloth material .Remove two top screwws, 3 bottom screws and lift back of door off. Remove two screws on each side of door bottom channel and remove channel. Put in new trim on bottom of glass window and put screws back in. Set back of door on top of front cover and screw two top screws and 3 bottom screws back in. Set door back into range. Lock clips on both hinges.

Would have helped it I knew the push on terminals of the bake element were visible and accessible to slide the terminals on from the back side of the stove in the beginning. There is not enough slack in the the terminal wires to connect them from the oven side, so you will have to open the back panel to retrieve a wire anyway. SO, CONNECT THE BAKE ELEMENT TO THE OVEN WALL FIRST ! Then, open the back panel of the stove and simply slide the terminals on the exposed slide terminals of the bake element.

Very easy to replace. So easy even a man can do it.

I am not the handiest person in the world, and this repair was easy even for me. If you suspect that the temperature sensor is the problem, do yourself a favor and buy this inexpensive replacement part and install it yourself prior to calling a professional who will charge a service fee just for checking it out. Pull your oven out from the wall so you can access the back. Unscrew the small nuts on the back to remove the sheet metal cover. Find the wire that goes to the sensor and unplug the plastic coupling. In the oven, unscrew the one nut that secures the sensor to the back wall of the oven. Pull the broken sensor out and replace it with the new sensor. Feed the wire through to the back and plug the new sensor into the same wire that was just disconnected. Reinstall all of the nuts. Do a "test cook" on some frozen food to ensure that the temperature seems correct (i.e., does it cook as expected in the recommended amount of time). The actual repair takes less than five minutes. I put "30-60 minutes" to account for unplugging the oven, pulling it out, removing the screws, replacing the screws, pushing it back in, and testing the temperature.

0. As a safety precaution, unplug the range or hit the relevant fuse breaker before you start. You might also want to grab a flashlight. Definitely do not try to do this while the oven is hot.
1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back.
2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap.
3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place.
4. Put the cap back.
5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.

No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.

I had my husband fix it! Very easy for me.

It didn't take him long. The most difficult part was getting to the screws. He had to practically climb into the oven.

The parts were shipped promptly and the whole process was relatively painless!

Remove two screws hold cook top down: prop it open with piece of wood. (TURN OFF POWER TO RANGE FIRST!). Carefully make diagram of where wires go: remove and replace.. piece of cake!