DSD26DGWABG General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Slip the front cover off by gently pulling down, carefully un-plug the wire connectors (x3), remove 4 screws and remove paddle assembly. 2 screws hold the flap on and 3 hold the solenoid. Replace the screws with stainless so they won't rust. I tried coating the solenoid in lithum grease to prevent rust, onlt time will tell if it works.

I just follow to the video and take step by step. It's was very helpful and easy. Thank you.

Removed the Control Panel and the outside of the Dispenser Outlet. Removed the Flapper Door and the solenoid. Replaced both parts with new parts, and re-assembled. The pin, at the top of the Solenoid was badly worn and the plastic arm was very rough on the surface adjacent to the worn pin.

I followed the video provided by PartSelect, very helpful. I had to cut and splice 4 wires. The repair was successful. The replacement part was an exact duplicate of the original. I still notice the same sound but one tenth the volume. I hope the problem does not return. Many thanks to PartSelect for information to identify the problem and prompt shipping of the repair part.

Removed control panel by inserting small screwdriver in the 3 holes underneath to loosen. Remove 4 screws holding circuit board . Unplugged 3 connectors. Removing circuit board gave access to flapper. Removed flapper by unclipping. Installed new flapper and reversed disassembly procedure. This was 2nd time in 2 years I had to replace this part.

per instructions supplied with main electronic control board. was much easier than I thought it might be.

Used a small screw driver to remove the damaged switch. Carefully unhooked the two wires and hooked the wires to the new switch. Pushed the new switch into place. Be careful that the wires do not pull back into the refrigerator wall. Took about 15 minutes. Works like New. Easy fix.

Had to remove all the covers and fans to expose the condenser, which was difficult as the parts were frozen to it. The styrofoam covering the condenser made it almost impossible to defrost it. Therefore, I ripped the styrofoam off to expose the condenser. Was not really difficult to fix the styrofoam cover using metal tape. Replaced temperature sensor in aluminum block, and used butyl sealant to secure. Had to also re-install parts of ice-ball kit that were not well covered. Lots of parts to keep track of, but anyone could do it.

It couldn't be easier. Just pry out the old broken switch with a flat blade screwdriver. start at the bottom in case you scratch the door by accident. When the bottom is out - pull the switch out slowly and disconnect the two wires that are attached to the top, taking care to remember which color lead is connected to which wire. Then, take the new switch and connect the proper wires to their respective terminals and push the switch into the slot. Done!

First determined my modle did not require any of the wire mods descibed on the instructions. Removed power and three cover plate screws. Removed board connectors. Calapsed board anchors and removed board. Removed existing ground wire from board. Installed ground wire on new board and installed board on four mounts. installed connectors and replaced cover and screws. I did wear playtex gloves so as not to cause a static short and wipe out the new board. Took off the bottom panel and cleaned condensor fan cage while I had the fridge out. Secured, plugged in fridge, works real fine, lasts a long time.

Changed the broken parts

Followed the excellent video provided by Parts Select. That's all you gave to do! Anyone, I mean anyone, could do this repair following the video!

I tried the sensor first since it cost a lot less and that did not fix my problem. The removal and installation basically the same as video on my model with the exception of where it is. Mine was on the side wall under a small grill that pops off with a slight downward /outward pressure using a small common screwdriver and then just splice in new sensor. The Air inlet cover /dampener did fix the problem. This again was really straight forward and like other post comes out fairly easy. Remove the top 2 shelves and the light cover. It is held on by 4 screws two on the back wall under the vent like cover that pops off. The top of it snaps into the air grill and once off remove two screws and disconnect the electrical connector. The other two screws are on rear of light assy. Then remove the water filter cover by squeezing sides in and put outward. Now the air inlet can be removed . Installation is just reverse.

I simply took out the old board as per video instructions. very easy . unplug 6 or seven connectors and ground wire slap in new board and reconnect . even a cave man can do it.

Things fall out of my refrigerator frequently thus the broken lite switch. Thought tape would solve until new part arrived. Thank goodness part came the next day as even with tape on and door close and light bulbs removed fridge read door as open and would not cool It is programmed not to run with door open. Within 24 hours part was delivered, unbelievable . It was that fast. Easy insertion and plugged in to the wiring and my refridge once more recognized the door was shut and began cooling. Thanks again