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DBSR453EB2WW General Electric Dryer - Instructions

All Instructions for the DBSR453EB2WW
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Broken door handle
Snapped right into place , less than a minute, if that
Parts Used:
Door Handle - White
  • Bud from RCH CUCAMONGA, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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DRYER WOULD STAY ON UNLESS THE TIMER SWITCH WAS IN THE OFF POSITION
UNPLUGGED THE DRYER AND PULLED THE DIAL FROM THE START SWITCH. REMOVED THE FOUR SCREWS FROM THE TOP OF THE CONTROL PANEL WITH A T20 STAR SCREWDRIVER. PULLED THE CONTROL PANEL COVER FORWARD. LABELED THE THREE WIRES GOING TO THE START SWITCH WITH THE NUMBERS ON THE OLD SWITCH. PULLED THE WIRES OFF THE OLD SWITCH. LIFTED THE RETAINING CLIP ON THE OLD SWITCH AND ROTATED THE SWITCH ABOUT 90 DEGREES. PULLED THE OLD SWITCH OUT AND INSTALLED THE NEW SWITCH, ROTATING IT UNTIL THE RETAINING CLIP SNAPPED INTO PLACE. CONNECTED THE WIRES TO THE CORRECT NUMBERED TERMINALS ON THE NEW SWITCH. PUT THE CONTROL PANEL COVER BACK IN PLACE AND REATTACHED IT WITH THE SCREWS, REPLACED THE DIAL AND PLUGGED IN THE DRYER.
Parts Used:
Rotary Start Switch
  • JACK A from HIALEAH, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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Dryer wouldn't start
Unplugged the dryer. Removed the 4 star headed screws with a screwdriver. Tilted the console forward and lifted. I didn't have to slide mine to the right. Pulled the knob straight off the front of the console. Lifted the lock tab with the needle nose pliers and twisted the switch to the right. It popped right out. Pulled the wires off with the pliers. Be aware, there are three wires, two red and one black. The both red wires only connect to one terminal on the switch. It looked at first glance as if I had the wrong part. But those two wires are connected to each other so it was correct. Plugged those wires back on. Put the switch into the hole and twisted it back into place, the lock clicked in to place. Replaced the console and plugged it back in and it worked perfectly. Turned right on. This took me under 15 minutes to do. Steve is the man! This girl has been able to use his videos to repair the dryer 3 times, the washer once, and my dishwasher 3 times over the years!!
Parts Used:
Rotary Start Switch
  • CHERI from CREEKSIDE, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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Dryer did not turn off when the door was opened and then closed.
Followed your video instructions and it worked exactly as described. You will be my source for all appliance repair parts.
Parts Used:
Rotary Start Switch
  • Robert from SOMERSET, NJ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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The timer knob was cracked and the metal "D"-Ring was broken on my GE cloths dryer
This repair was a no brainer repair. The factory replacement knob that I bought from this site comes with a new "D"-Ring. Some other aftermarket parts houses sell the knob and the "D"-Ring as seperate parts. The knob from this site already has the "D"-Ring ring installed in the knob. My "D"-ring was broken and I simply removed it with my fingers. All I had to do was properly align the new know knob with the timer shaft and press it into place. If your "D"-ring is not broken and not still inside the old knob, you will need to pull it off the shaft with a pair of pliers before pressing the new knob onto the timer shaft. Dr. "B" The Hot Rod Doc
Parts Used:
D-Shaped Knob Clip
  • Lynn from MORGANTOWN, WV
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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belt broke
had a great video to follow, made it easy to install.
Parts Used:
Drive Belt
  • joseph a from VALLEY STREAM, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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Dryer's drum doesn't run
Follow YouTube "how to change dryer's belt" some video is very clear.
Parts Used:
Drive Belt
  • ruoli from Germantown, MD
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Dryer turns on as soon as door is closed.
Gently pull off all knobs and put aside. Remove the panel screws using the star bit. Tip panel forward. Remove three wires from old switch and put them on same terminals on new switch. Use the screwdriver to gently pull up the old switch's locking arm from the slot in the front panel and rotate the old switch until it pops out of the front panel. Insert the new switch into the panel and rotate until the locking arm clicks into place. Replace front panel making sure no wires are pinched. Re-install the front panel screws and control knobs.
Parts Used:
Rotary Start Switch
  • Douglas from ETOWAH, NC
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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handle fell off
stuck it back in the holes just like the original handle. Had to do a little adjustment because I put screwdriver in them too many times to open the door after the original handle feel off, so the fit was loose. Fixed with tape.
Parts Used:
Door Handle - White
  • Lilly from CROSBY, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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CONTINUOUS SQUEAKING WHEN RUNNING
Open Door /remove 2 screws in top of door opening (this releases the top panel) /Lift top panel off of dryer (it is tucked under control panel) Remove the white plastic "arch" (front drum bearing) on top of door panel / Install new drum bearing and 4 each of the "slides" on the bearing/ There are two on each side of the "front drum bearing"/ Reverse the disassembly process to finish/ . You'll need a standard flat tip screw driver and a Phillips heads crewdriver to do all work
Parts Used:
Front Drum Bearing Drum Bearing Slide - White (Sold individually)
  • Jeff from SOUTHAMPTON, NJ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Dryer was making intermittent, loud, moaning and whistling-screeching noises (temporarily relieved by squirtin lubricant through the drum holes towards the bearing).
I used a flat head, a phillips head, and two sizes of sockets with my screwdriver to complete this project. I initially undid the control panel, but I don't think I needed to. I next took out two long screws that were holding the top of the cabinet on. These screws were just inside the doorway, directly above where the door sits when closed. I took the top off and set it aside. Being careful to mark which wire went to which lead, I undid the leads to the door open/closed switch. I next found two, black, hex-end screws, one each on the upper sides, towards the front, and undid these with a socket end on the screwdriver; being careful not to drop them as they came out. I then tilted the front panel out and up and set it aside. Note that the front opening holds the drum up so it can spin. Next, I tilted the front of the drum up, and pulled it outwards, till bearing at the back pulled out of the socket, and the drum dropped down enough that I could push the belt off the back of the drum. I then pulled the drum out through the front opening. I could see that the bearing was mostly worn away and metal was rubbing on metal. On the drum, I took off the air diffuser and the drum's half of the bearing assembly, and attached the new part of the bearing assembly, where the old one was. There was a metal disk that I was careful to reinsert in its former spot. I tried to make sure that all screws were tightened with equal force. Then I removed the entire bearing housing/blower assembly by undoing the outer screws that attached it ti the back wall of the cabinet, I rotated it outward at the top , pivoting around the compression fitting (no screws) at the base. I then removed the back half of the bearing housing, and replaced it. I needed to screw in the screws from the front while holding the spring-clip-thing in place (once installed, you can stick your finger through the hole in the bearing housing and feel the clip right behind it). I took this opportunity to clean all the excess lint out of the cabinet. I then replaced everything in reverse order until I got to the drum. I put the belt loosely arounf the drum, with the grooved/ridged side facing in. Then put the bearing (with drum), back in the socket. Feeling through the hole under the front of the drum, take the belt where it hangs off the drum TO YOUR RIGHT, run it under then up around the left side of the small pulley, then pull it to the right (above the small pulley) and around the right side of the big (tensioner) pulley, and let go. Note that there is a swithch in the tensioner that won't switch on unless there is enough tension on the belt! Put the front back on, lifting up the barrel from the inside, so that the barrel opening slides around the outside of the front's assembly. Ours seemed to fit more tightly than it had previously, into the felt padding around to bottom of the front assembly, but it seems to work fine? Screw in the two black, hex-head screws from the sides into the front, and re-attach the door-switch wires. Turn it on (carefully) to make sure it runs. Then attach the top, using the two long screws up through the door opening into the top. Ours is working much better than before - hotter, faster, quieter! Should we have lubricated the bearing with lithium grease?
Parts Used:
Rear Drum Bearing Kit
  • BJ from WHEAT RIDGE, CO
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
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Wouldn't Start
Followed the directions in the video. The only problem was there was no mention of needing a star bit set in addition to a Philips screwdriver in order to get the back splash detached from the dryer. This is probably because the machine was 11 years old. It would have been more helpful to have a note that machines prior to a certain age would need that tool. Otherwise it was a easy job even for a 75 year old grandmother.
Parts Used:
Rotary Start Switch
  • Sue from FOLSOM, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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WAITING ON PART
Still waiting for your parts. over two weeks to get part which was a hinge for something, I don't know what, but not my dryer seal. You said you would refund shipping and wrong part and charge me for a new order. End result was I got charged extra shipping for your mistake. The part still is MIA and it has been 5 weeks since I originally ordered. Will never do business with you again.
Parts Used:
Foam Seal
  • MARTIN from MOUNTAIN VIEW, WY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
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Old dryer filter was cracked and bulb burnt out
Easy peasey! Just Removed/Replace screw-in type bulb.
Parts Used:
Lint Filter - White Frame Light Bulb
  • Michael from MEMPHIS, TN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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Gasket ripped
It was so simple. I removed the old ripped gasket by just pulling it. I followed the same direction with the new gasket by using a small screw driver to push in the tabs in each of the holes in the door. It works perfectly. They only fear I had was getting the part and the correct part, the model number of the dryer was on the door which made it easy.
Parts Used:
Door Gasket
  • Gail from WHITE LAKE, MI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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All Instructions for the DBSR453EB2WW
121 - 135 of 590