I REMOVED THE TOP PANEL OF THE MICR0WAVE AND THEN REMOVED ONE SCREW TO REMOVE THE CONTROL PANEL. rEMOVED OLD SWITCH. SNAPPED IN NEW SWITCH AND CONNECTED WIRE. REPLACED CONTROL PANEL AND UPPER PANEL.
Oven wouldn't sensor reheat & error code on display
I looked at the exploded pic on your web site to find the location of the sensor. Next I removed the cover by unscrewing 15 screws then swaped the sensor and re assembled! Works great! Fixing it my self I saved at least 150$ and did not have to wait all day for a repair man who probaly would not have the part on the first visit.
The part was burnt and was causing sparking inside the microwave
Removed the old canopy mica, it has tabs that slip into slots on the top of the microwave. Then installed the new part, the tabs are inserted into the same slots.
I removed the main cover ( torx security bit required) and tested the magnetron, capacitor, diode and door interlock switches according to instructions found on the internet. The capacitor and diode tested good but the magnetron looked burnt and corroded on the tip. The magnetron I received was an exact replacement for the original. It was easy to replace the magnetron which arrived in 2 days standard shipping. I also cleaned the fan while I had access to the inside area. Hoping to get another 18 years use from the microwave!
Frost build up on bottom to ice bin and delivery chute in door creating ice blockage
Remove the ice bin. Turn the ice maker selection to "OFF" Use small flat blade screwdriver to open the plastic ears on the electic plug in connectiion Use #2 Phillips screwdriver to remove the screw on the front left side of the ice maker Pull the ice maker forward until free of the two studs in the left side rear of the freezer wall Check to see if the supplied water chute is the correct size for your application, if not remove the water chute from the old ice maker and place it on the new one. Place the new ice maker in the freezer connecting the slots on the left read with the studs on the left wall NOTE; IF THE ICE MAKER DOES NOT APPEAR TO BE LEVEL HORIZONTALLY REMOVE IT AND CAREFULLY REINSTALL IT TO ACHIEVE LEVEL NOTE: ENSURE THE WATER DELIVERY TUBE RESTS IN THE RECEIVER TRAY Reconnect the electrical plug ( needle nose pliers may be helpful in aligning the male plug with the female plug) Move the selector from "OFF" to "ON" Replace the ice bin and close the freezer door
Remove upper grill, then control panel, then 2 screws hold door switch mounting bracket, that will let you roll the switches out to work on them. Remove each switch by carefully pushing back retainer clips. Diode a long pair of needlenose pliers is helpful. The control board in front of capacitor comes out with a flat screwdriver and pry up. Removing grnd wires helps
They part we received was not the right part. Called GE and ordered a new part with the same number and it worked perfectly!! Yr part was the wrong size so has to send back. Very frustrating!!!!
Very easy to replace. This replacement part is the perfect fit for my microwave since the original part has been discontinued. It does have the night light and bright light feature.
-unplug -remove top and front covers -unplug wire connectors from heating assembly -remove heating assembly from metal stand and push out of the way -remove metal stand from dry -pull out heating assembly -install new one in reserve order
This item worked as described. I paid more for this 'oem' probe than the generic 1 because i didn't want to chance it not working as others have reported. - works great. tested it....snaps in, reads correctly, snaps out.
Door Switch went bad, Internal Fan would run every time you open the door
Unscrewed the control panel (2 screws), lift up and let hang, with a plan screwdriver open bracket holding the switch, unplug 2 wires, replace with new switch, plug in the 2 wires, push switch back into bracket. Then slide on the control panel, put the 2 screws back. Easy fix.
First I had to accept the fact that the unit was designed to keep non-professional people from doing any repairs. The switch was installed in such a manner that I had to break the mounting to remove the switch, then drill a hole in the mounting to secure the new switch in place.
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
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Turntable motor was making noise
Unscrewed and dropped the bottom panel of the Advantium on its rear hinge, disconnected the light and the motor, removed the motor screws, and replaced the motor. Very simple. However, not related to the Advantium or the motor, trim had been applied to the bottom of the wall cabinets after installation of the Advantium. This trim prevented the lowering of the panel (and future removal of the whole oven), so I had to chisel and file and repaint the trim to get it out of the way.
