CDE20R7A Crosley Dryer - Instructions

The part didnt line up with the timer markers.

Instructions said where toscrewed it to the machines but didn't match the on and off buttons.

Rotated it and it fit a little better but it still didn't match the minutes or on and/off for every section.

Had to drill a hole in it to screw it in as well cause the ones that came drilled were not lined up right.

I suspected (correctly) that the thermostat was malfunctioning so I ordered the Heating Element Kit. This repair would have taken less than 15 minutes if I would not have dropped one of the sheet metals screws in the back of the dryer when re-installing the heating element.

I (1)unplugged the unit from the power source. (2)popped the top loose at the front corners with a screwdriver. (3)removed the single 1/4 inch hexhead screw holding the thermal limiter mount from the top of the heating element box with a 1/4 inch nutdriver. (4)removed the two wires connected to the limiter. (5)removed the two 1/4 inch hexhead screws that mount the limiter to the holder. (6)replaced the old limiter with the new one. (7)replaced the two limiter holding screws. (8)replaced the wires on the same terminals as they were removed from. (9)removed the screw holding the heating element in the box. (10)removed the element from the box by moving it to the rear slightly, lifting it up on the side the mounting screw is on and withdrawing the holding tab on the other side from the hole it passes through. (11)removed the thermal fuse holder by pulling upward on the thermal fuse mount until the thermal fuse and mount released and lifted them out of the side of the element box together. (12)removed the wires from the thermal fuse. [[>note< wires are threaded through thermal fuse mount]] (13)reconnected wires to themal fuse. (14)there are no bolts holding the fuse to it's mount, so I used a piece of masking tape to hold the fuse in place temporarily while aligning it with the mounting holes in the side of the element box, and snapped the mount, and the fuse into place with a downward motion while holding pressure on the mount in the direction of the box then removed the tape. (15)replaced the heating element into the box by threading the mounting tab into the hole it passes through while holding the element slightly to the rear of the box and lowering into place. (16)replaced the screw that holds the heating element in the box with the 1/4 inch nutdriver. (17)located the thermal limiter and its mount on the tab over the top of the heating element box, and replaced the mounting screw with the 1/4 inch nutdriver. (18)made sure all wires were secured in the clearance clips provided lowered the top and snapped it into place with equal downward pressure on the front of the top. (19)plugged in the power cord. (20)Tested machine (FIN)

removed front cover, lifted drum up with a clamp and replaced slides. Replaced front cover

When online& found website... trouble shot for problem per previous posts on PART SELECT.GREAT SITE for problem ifo.I ordered parts,they arrived 2 days later and within 1/2 an hour I had our dryer repaired and working like new!!THANKS!!!

I just used screw driver to pop of clip put new roller on poped clip back on

Had to disassemble most of the dryer including pulling dryer drum in order to get to drum support rollers. Not a real difficult repair, just time consumming because of amount of parts needing to be removed inorder to get to rollers.

Very simple-remove 3 screws that hold the Control Panel on, remove the two connectors and replace with new part in reverse order. Unfortunately, this did not fix the problem. Will be ordering complete timer assembly.

googled"dryer not heating". landed on partsselect.com. checked parts like website said with multimeter. pointed to thermostat. ordered it, replaced it, it works now.

Replaced the thermal shut off and the thermistor located on the heating element bracket.
Easy to diagnose and to replace- not totally accessable but not that bad either. Cleaned out lint obstruction causing the problem.

first I went online and took a look at the schematic and realized that two items can shut the complete unit down and would be easy to check. First I checked the door switch with a multimeter then the high limit non-resettable thermostat. The contacts on the thermostat were open which told me it was bad. Went online to www.partselect.com and found the part really easily. came in when they said it would and it was a perfect match to the original (part numbers on the side and eveything). Make sure you correct the problem that caused the unit to overheat in the first place. IN my case the dryer air passages were full of lint. After a good cleaning put it all back together and it worked better than it has in years.

First I removed the screws of the dryer cover. Next removed the screws holding the dryer drum.

Drilled out the two rivets left from the old glide. Inserted the plastic and postitioned the cushion underneath. Inserted the new glide and drilled a hole in the plastic to accomodate the new rivet. Inserted rivet. Pulled the other end so it was tight holding the cushion and did the other end. Done.

Had to cut the glide 1/4 '' of the width to slide it through the existing slots in the panel.

I took the front off the cabinet (pry up front of top and remove two screws. Removed the drum, replaced the left rear drum support roller by removing one snap ring on shaft of roller and repacing after installing the new wheel. Reinstalled the drum, the hardest part of the repair was getting the belt back on the drum. It is hard to reach the belt to place it back on the motor. (small space to reach through) Being able to purchase a single wheel from this website saved me $50.00, the local suppier wanted to sell me a whole kit.

After reading everyone else's comments I started by pulling out the dryer, unplugging the power and exhaust. Next moved the dryer to an area where I had room to lay it on the back. Then using a flat blade screw driver, I popped the top attached tape to the top so I could lean back the top without having to hold it. Removed the two screws from the front panel and removed the door safety shut off before removed the front panel. Then I layed the dryer on its back. Then reached under the drum, pushed the belt tensioner toward the motor puller to release the tension on the belt. Then slid the belt to the base. Pulled the drum up and out of the cabinet. Next I cleaned all the lint and crud out of the dryer components. To remove the clips that hold the rollers in place, I use 2 small flat blade screw drivers. These are inserted at the back side of the horse show shaped clip between the shaft and the clip. When the two screw drivers are rotated like turning a screw they slide the clip out. Next I used a socket wrench with a #8 metric socket(I didn't have the sae size) and removed the screws holding the drum roller brackets. I simply reversed the procedure to install the new rollers. Since the dryer was on its back, when I put the drum back in, its own weight slipped it in place. Then pulled the belt around the drum and between the motor pulley and the belt tensioner. Holding the belt with one hand, I used the other hand to pushed the belt tensioner in and positioned the belt. Then I stood the unit back upright and put the front cover on, replaced the door safety switch, removing the tape holding the lid and then cloed the lid. Of course I put the dryer back in place, leveled it, and it now runs like brand new. My thanks to every one else who gave me hints that saved be about $450!

Easy repair and I am not the handyman type. Unplug the unit. Lift the top. Remove 2 wires from temperature sensor and remove single screw to lift out the plate the sensor is mounted to(Easier to change the sensor out this way). Remove 2 wires from heating element and then remove single screw. Lift out heating element and replace with new one. Screw back in and reattach 2 wires. Remove 2 screws on the plate for the temeperature sensor and replace with the new sensor. Once 2 screws are back in the plate holding the sensor, screw back in with single screw and attach 2 wires. I called a tech and they wanted $125 just to look at the unit. When I read other reviews of how easy this repair was, I thought it was worth a try. Definitely saved us a bunch of money and time.