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wanting to see this new energy efficient washer work, with the lid open
There are a lot of complaints, with these new energy efficient washers, no matter the brand, on the amount of water that is being used, and not properly washing your cloths, while in the wash cycle. I got this new MayTag washer, and wanted to see it work, for myself, so I can try to correct the problem. But in order to see it work, and fill, the lid has to be open, to observe it working. To do so, there is a part connected to the lid, called a "STRIKE", that when the lid is down, it activates the electronics, making the washer run. So, I purchased this strike, to insert it in the washer, so I can observe the washer running, while the lid is open. Very easy, no tools required, just stick it in the slot, where the strike, on the lid goes, when the lid is closed.
When the washer goes into a spin cycle, I would hear an intermittent loud clattering noise. I think the clutch teeth above (the cup part that is spring loaded) and the belted pulley's teeth below are not fully seating on each other during the spin cycle.
W10721967 Splutch Cam Kit
Assuming the pulley nut was properly tightened at the factory. I think this problem occurs because of ever-so-slight rounding of the splutch cam teeth from the actuator engaging and disengaging over whatever time frame there is before a clattering noise develops.
When I took off the 13mm nut using the adjustable strap tool, it felt tight to me...Was it put on as tight as it should have been at the factory? Who knows. I don't have the torque specification of this nut on that plastic pulley.
Watch the videos to remove and replace the belt cover and belt, actuator and splutch cam kit.
Pay particular attention to tightening up the nut. I put the pulley on and hand-tightened the nut. I used the adjustable strap tool and before I tightened everything, I pushed up on the pulley to press against the spring pressure in order to mesh the teeth together. After the nut was tight, I repositioned the strap tool and gave it another go, further tightening it. You see earlier that day, I only tightened it up once because I thought it was good and tight. I put everything back and within a half-hour it was clattering again and I could loosen the nut I thought was tight by hand! I fooled myself. That's why I did it twice, and don't be afraid to give it a good second tightening effort. Two weeks now and the wife is currently very happy.
The Washer acted like the lid would not latch and stopped it from cycling.
My fault completely! I shut a valve off to a spicket that I have in my garage due to a Nebraska winter. The problem turned out to be that my washer was receiving its cold water from the line that I shut off. So it was an expensive lesson to learn after replacing the switch harness and the latch. Water was turned off Ding Dong!
Royal pain getting the wash plate off. I'm 6 foot 215 lbs with muscular arms( beer belly too) and I could not get it to come off. Put hay bail twine around the edge and pulled up so hard the entire machine came off the ground. Luckily I am married. Yep I pulled one end of the string and her the other and it flew off. Part select was $10 cheaper than whirlpool and was a perfect match. I might order another to have because like stated earlier I'm married. She is married to me and the washer and dryer.
During the Spin cycle the washer was noisy and moved around
I watched the video and did exactly what they said to do. It was really easy. The key to the success was in the parts that were mailed to me it had a separate piece of paper telling you to "reset" the washer after doing the repair. I missed this when I watched the video. That was a critical part of the repair which required no tools to accomplish. I have done 6 loads of wash and the washer has not made any crazy noises and hasn't moved!
Sensor was not changing it would go back to wash from rinse
Ordered the part for the 500 series Kenmore washer open the top switch the two parts out and reconnected the new part replace the covers they only thing is cold is hot and the hot is cold even with it connect correct I just put on opposite settings and go with it
The wash cycle made a loud grinding noise when it went from filling to wash.
I put the dial to drain and and pressed the pause button for 3 seconds and it drained. Unplugged the washer from the electrical outlet . Shut the hot and cold water off. Disconnected and drained them. Placed the washer on a soft mat on front side exposing the back and bottom of the machine. Unscrew the metal cover with Philips head screw driver. Disconnect the drain hose to a bucket or small dish tub . Remove the belt cover with 5/8 ratchet or wrench. Using a ratchet or wrench remove the one bolt holding the clutch in place . Remove the two Philips head screws from the shift mechanism ( looks like clock timer,my memory is failing me right now sorry! ) . Pull down on bottom gear after removing nut. Push in and pull down with a flat head screwdriver on the tabs holding the collar in place above the top gear .The collar and gear and spring should come apart. Install new parts in the same order . Reassemble make sure to use Locktite 242 on the bottom nut holding the gear. Install belt , belt guard , cover drain hose . Stand machine back up , reconnect all hoses tightly plug machine into electrical outlet and start. Put a smile on your face because you did a great job and saved yourself some money!
Followed detailed instructions which were supplied with the parts. It was easy and my machine is working great with no issues. Also I just didn’t get the main drive pulley, all new parts came for the bottom end, great service and excellent parts.
Pop center cover off wash plate. Remove bolt. Lift off washplate. Slide retainer off with screwdriver and hammer. Slide new retainer on. Replace washplate.
The washer kept filling with water during the cycles
Unplug the washer. Turn of the water. Remove the hoses. using a 1/4 inch nut driver, remove the screws from the back panel. Remove the console by inserting a putty knife between the console and the top until you hear the click. Unplug the harness for the inlet valve. remove the two screws holding the inlet valve and then remove the inlet valve. Replace with new inlet valve and affix with the two screws. Plug in the electrical harness. Place Console back into position. Place back panel into position and tighten screws with nut driver. Put the hoses back on the inlets. turn the water back on. plug in the washer.
Having been out of the business for quite a few years I thought that I was dealing with a direct drive machine. Thinking that it was the motor coupler. I removed the control panel and attempted to pull the cabinet froward. Not so, it had a solid cabinet, so I tilted the machine against the wall and looked under the washer finding the driven Transmission pulley loose on the shaft. The splines on the pulley were pretty well worn but I tightened the nut and it worked okay. But I ordered a pulley and replaced after it's arrival. The motor capacitor also broke it's mount off so I had to rehang it with zip ties and repaired the wires to the Capacitor, (Which BTW had about 22 gauge wire). I found it hard to believe that they would use such small wire.
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
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spin cycle did not activate
Replaced hinge switch. Still no spin cycle. Noticed hinge bearing cracked & if hinge forced into switch, spin activated. Ordered new hinge bearings.Spin cycle still didn't engage. On further examination, observed that hinge was bent. Straightened hinge & worked like a charm. Didn't really need new switch or bearings. NOTE : Avoid having washer door bang shut.Took longer than expected, but each procedure was simple.
