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Washer making high pitched squeal at stopping of spin cycles
My washer is apparently 37 years old. I bought it used in the 90’s and have had to do little or nothing to it repair wise. It started to make a loud squeal/squeak when the spin cycle stopped. I watched a couple videos showing the brake assembly, bearings and belt replacement and was able to find parts. However, one bearing appears to no longer be made (just repacked with heavy duty grease) and the special tool is nonexistent. I read others using a chain clamp vise to remove the brake assembly and bought a 20 inch chain clamp vise and a 3 set variety of vise grip pliers for about $20. They make an 18 inch chain vise but glad I got the 20 inch. I used two vise grip pliers to clamp chain around notch two notches that the specialty tool would normally grab. It was a cumbersome getting in there to whack the pliers with a small sledge hammer so I got a approx 18 inch 2x4 and cut a notch at the end to keep chain vise from digging into bottom of washer and whacked the end of the 2x4. Seemed to work ok and did the same to tighten back after replacing break assembly. Got it out back together and no more squeal.
Tried the water level control first. didn't fix it. Then replaced the air tube for tub fill volume.
The thing here is that it didn't have a hole in it nor was it blocked where you couldn't blow through it. The prolbem was that at the tub end it has a larger diameter and that was nearly filled with softener residue so it changed the air volume. That reduced air volume caused the air pressure to be wrong to the water level sensor. My most useful tool was a magnet mount flashligt inside the cabinet so I could see to get the hose back on.
I went to the Internet and saw how to pry the front panel off the washer. This gave me access to the two belts and four pulleys underneath the washer; a pair for the Drive and a pair for the Pump. There was enough slack in the original belts that they came off with minimal effort. The new belts were easy enough to install. It took a mere seconds to install the new Spacers on the Front panel of the cabinet. The most time consuming portion of the project was getting the washer turned out of its tight corner to get access to the clips on the bottom of the front panel.
Actually, the loud noise would happen only when valve shuts down water flow after filling up the washer (when water flow stops and washing cycle begins). Replacement part was almost exactly the same. I did not need little transparent hose piece (used clamp that was already there). I used a combination of repair tips others already listed here: unplug washer's electricity cord 1st ( turn water off ; unhook hoses from back of washer(...); remove top screw off of inlet valve's back panel first and push up/out the bottom; unscrew valve off of panel; without yanking things around much, note exact connections of cables & hose(s); replace with new part, and put back on in reverse order. One important note: the new part's screw holes were ungrooved but not too hard to slowly work in the screws because of the soft alloy. Be patient, good luck! PartSelect: Great website/catalog, great service.
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
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Water was leaking from under washer
Frist remover the two screws from washer front. The ones that are about 5 inches from the floor. Pulled front cover toward me and removed. The hose was right in the front that was cracked. It was held on by two hose clamps. I just removed the old and put in the new. No more water on the floor. Shipping was fast for the hose too. They said that if they recieved the order by 3pm it would be shipped the same day. I order at 3:01pm Sat. recieved Tuesday.
Water leak coming from rear, left side of washing machine.
Removed front access panel--very easy, two screws at bottom of panel, near the floor. Removed two more hex-headed screws that secure the top panel/lid to the top of the washing machine frame. Most difficult problem was identifying the source of the leak. I saw water running out of a white, rectangular (about 1" x 3/4" x 3/4") box-like device that was installed in the water line that leads from the mixing valve (blue box, mounted at the back of washer) to the top of the tub. Discovered this device is called the injector assembly, have not yet been able to figure out what function it serves. Disconnected one of the hose clamps that secure the injector assembly to the water hose. Removed the rubber injector valve and injector nozzle, the two parts that fit inside the above-described "box." Soaked the assembly "box" in vinegar to eliminate hard-water deposits. Replaced the two internal parts (injector nozzle & injector valve) with new (about $15, including shipping). This almost resolved the problem, still saw a small amount of water leaking from the whole assembly, but only about 5% of what was leaking. Haven't yet figured out why it's not completely dry, or what function that injector assembly serves.
It was as simple as leaning the machine back far enough so I could get to the belts - which were on the bottom. The diagrams that came with the ordered parts were right on. This is the first time I have attempted this myself - my repairman has retired - I'm sure I will do it again.
Tub was filling up with water slowly when washing machine was off
Turn the water supply off. Disconnected the hot and cold hoses from wahing machine. Unplugged the machine from power supply. Removed two screws holding the water inlet valve to the machine frame. Took the old valve out and marked the wire connectors. Removed the wire connectors and the remaining hose from the old valve. Took the new valve and connected the wires paying attention to the markings made earlier. Uses the little adapter hose which came with the new valve to make the new hose connection on the outlet side of the valve. Put everything back and it worked fine. These partselect guys are very prompt in sending the things you order. I have used them many times and am very happy to deal with these guys.
Removed front, loosened top & tilted up. Placed tub top assuring it would not rub inner basket. Placed clamp on Ridge & gasket & tightened. Reassembled & started washing.
Removed two screws and lifted the control console then tilted forward the shell. Removed two screws holding the latch cover and assembly then disconnected two wires. I played with the assembly until I discoved the element was toast. Ordered the part but when I got it I was confused because it had three prongs (two on one side and one on the other) when the burnt one had only one and one and I only had 2 disconnect wires. I thought I had gotten the wrong part but figured it out. Actually putting the assembly together was the easy part, trying to get the outer shell back together was a little tough. Between taking it a part, figuring out what was wrong and ordering and receiving the part was about three weeks. So when putting it all together took awhile but I did it and it works great.
Since the washer is 28 years old, my first impulse was to rush out and buy a new one. However, I'm a DYI'er and I figured what do I have to loose by taking the front panel off (I had seen this done by the Maytag Repairman) and checking things out. After removing the two screws located near the bottom front of the panel, I pulled out on the bottom and the panel easily came off. I couldn't see any evidence of leaking water so I thought, "what would the Maytag Man do next". I figured "he'd run through a cycle to see if he could find the leak" so that's what I did. Sure enough, as soon as the spin and drain cycle came on, the source of the leak became apparent. There is a slight vibration during the spin which caused the hose to fail.
I then got on my computer, Googles "repair parts for Maytag Washer" and found Parts Select.Com. I was surprised (to say the least) to find the part I needed in stock. I place my order on Sunday morning and the part was delivered the following Wednesday afternoon. I installed the hose and replaced the front panel and was washing a load of jeans within 20 minutes.
I appreciate the service provided by Parts Select and will be ordering again when the need arises.
My washer is very old but in very good condition, it was my mothers when I was a teenager and now I am 50! This is the first repair ever done on it, my son was sure I should just buy a new one but my daughter and I had other ideas. We went on line and looked it up and followed easy directions and found the small part that was leaking right away.It had just worn out. we then ordered the parts for under $20.00 and within a few day's it was here and we were back in the laundry washing. Thank you soooo much, we are not going to let this one down with my son for some time =)
Washer made screeching sound during spin cycle. Also, the clothes were still very wet at end of spin cycle.
I used two vise grip wrenches in place of specialized tool that is no longer available. I put the vice grip wrenches on the brake assembly and hit them alternately with a hammer. I also used penetrating oil.
Note, the parts package stated made in USA but the bearings had China stamped on them.
