91193417000 Kenmore Range - Instructions

First thing I unplugged the range. Then I unscrewed 4 screws in the back of the stove to take the back cover off. Then inside the oven, I unscrewed three screws to lossen the element. Then disconnected the two wires from the element.

Then replaced the old element with the new one going exactly backward as mentioned above finishing with plugging the range.

This electric stove has a lift up top which I lifted to get at the block and follow the wire back to the terminal at the back of the the stove. I removed the 5 small lag screws holding the back in place, removed the backing followed the wires back to where they connected in the Stove On/Off Control, disconnected the two wires from the control and then laid the new part in place rethreading and reconnecting the wires. I reinstalled the block and ran a test to ensure the burner operated correctly. After successful testing I disconnect the old block holder by removing the small lag screw, replace it with a new one that came with the replacement terminal block. I then inserted the block into the new holder carefully rolled up the excess wire and wrapped it in a couple of places with electrical tape and also secured it to the side of the stove, out of the way of operation with electrical tape, put the top down, plugged it back in and put it back in place. All told the repair took about 40 minutes. I was impressed with the speed of delivery, the quality of the product, the instructions for installation and the added bonus of getting a terminal block holder as part of the repair kit! Thank You for making me look like a genius!

Removed the oven door and shelves. Moved the oven out from wall, so that I could access the rear panel. Unplugged the oven. Removed the five (5) screws holding the rear panel in place and removed the panel. Disconnected the sensor at the connector. Removed the screw holding the sensor in place inside the oven and removed the sensor. Theaded the sensor wire through the rear of the oven wall. Installed the sensor and screw to hold it in place. Snapped the connector from the sensor to the mating connector at the rear of the oven. Installed the rear panel. Installed the five (5) screws to hold the panel. Plugged the oven back in and slide the oven back to the wall. Installed the oven shelves and the oven door.

This appeared to be an easy fix, but turned out to be more involved than I planned. The hard part was pulling the range/microwave oven assembly away from the wall so I could remove the back panel and see how the new terminal block wires connected up to the switch/knob that operates the burner. Extracting the whole range unit required me to use a floor jack to raise the leveling feet of the range above the edge of my floor tile so I could slide the unit out. Once away from the wall, I used a nut driver to remove the back panels. Next surprise was the new terminal block wire connectors were not the same type as the old block's connectors (flat vs. male pin-type). Rather than let the scope of this job creep to include a whole new connector rig, I opted to splice the new terminal block wires onto the existing wires that led up to the control knob. I used professional splices and a crimping tool to secure the wires. After checking the new installation was sound and operational, I slid the whole range back into place. Attaching the new terminal block to the range top was a piece of cake, but getting the damn oven out into open space where I could work on it was bear. But, hey, I learned a few things, one of which is that when a homeowner decides to retile their kitchen, make sure you run the new tiles all the way under the range and not just up to the front edge of the oven. I can see why this was done - to avoid having to remove the oven during the retiling - but it creates an obstacle for whenever the oven needs to be pulled away from its location. The last tool I imagined I would need for this repair was a car jack. The Parts Select part worked fine.

First, UNPLUG OVEN. Then, remove oven door and place stove on work bench! JUST KIDDING!! Honestly, the repair would be easy if that were possible.The hardest part is kneeling, standing, hunching over, twisting your body holding flashlight in your mouth, etc...THEN, trying to re-attach wires screws etc. The repair is straight forward. unscrew all screws holding element in, pull element out about 6 inches, detach wires, and re-attach. Simple right? Maybe if you're 1 foot 2 inches tall or have 6 foot arms

Pulled burner out of socket and pushed new burner into socket. Took less than a minute.

I first turned off power, then I removed the old top oven heating element, I connected the new element to power supply then placed the element back into holders.

unscrew the terminal block,pulled the old wires out,installed the new wires installed the new block

Removed old racks and replaced with new racks.

Unplugged the oven, took out old element and replaced with new element. It was really simple and easy to do, didn't even need my husband who is not mechanically inclined.

Took out the 2 screws,Pulled out the stove
Took the back off ,took the wires out of the little place where they fit in,Removed the old element.
Put the new one in Fitted the little thing which looked like a alumium flat piece back where we took the old one out.Put the back back on cut it on wheepe In business.Also the new element came here faster than I thought it would .I,m a 71 yearold grandmother.Pretty simple.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then went to pull the element out and one of the wires touched the side of the access hole. There was a spark and the electrical breaker tripped. (Remember to always shut the electricity off first). Before I put the new element in I took off the access panel on the back of the range, slid in the new element, attached the two screwd that hold the element in place. Then I went around to the back of the range and re-connected the wires from that location to make sure there was nothing around the wires that would spark. Put the access plate back on and I was done.

My stove would not heat. I could see that the bake element had a hole burned through it. Found this website. I was confused about what part I needed so I called the phone number and the girl was very good at locating exactly which element my stove needed after I gave her the stove make and model #. I ordered the part on Thursday afternoon. The part arrived on Saturday afternoon.

The hardest part of fixing it was finding the correct screw driver socket thingy (I'm not a technical person) to get the screws off with. Thankfully my neighbor had what I needed. I pulled my stove out from the wall (primarily because I needed to clean under there) and unplugged it. Unscrewed the screws, pulled the old element out until I could see the wire connections. I used clothes pins to hold the wires from going back into the stove once I unhooked them from the element (another tip I learned on this website) and simple slipped the wire connectors onto the new element, pushed it back into place, put the screws back on, plugged it in and TA DA... was baking a pizza in no time.

Very very VERY easy repair!!!

Simply pulled old gasket from door and pushed new gasket clips into existing holes and tucked in ends at bottom of door.

My husband actually did the replacement but I did all the research online to find the right part. I wasn't sure we'd find it for our old stove but luckily we did and it works fine. Thanks for the super fast service!