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Brand new refrigerator, but evaporator fan blade broken, causing considerable vibration and noise.
Really, really, really easy: 1.Unplug refrigerator (electrical safety). 2.Remove cardboard cover at bottom of refrigerator (two short self-tapping bolts) with a wrench. 3.Pull old fan blade off fan motor shaft (just held on by a compression fitting--no tools needed). 4.Push new fan blade on shaft. 5. Replace cardboard cover. 6. Plug in refrigerator, write nasty letter to Frigidaire.
Removed 4 screws holding face plate onto ice bucket. Removed the 3 screws holding the ice crusher housing. Noted postion and rotation of teh s;ring loaded ice selecting rod. Removed broken crusher housing. Reveresed process for installion. Took for test drive. Operational...
This could not have been easier. I came to this website looking to see how much the part was before i called a repairman to come do it. I saw everyones instructions and decided to try it myself. To replace the ice maker you basically unscrew 2 screws, unplug the broken one and remove it. Plug in the new and tighten the screws to hold it in place. I would have been REALLY unhappy if i had called a repairman and saw that was how it was done. Could not have been easier
pulled old gasket out of groove in door. Put vaseline on slotted part of gasket that fits in groove of refri. door Put some vaseline on gasket surface that would be on the hinge side of door, so it would close with ease. Had no problems at all. Thanks
P.S. Sorry about not having the model No. The Part No was PS1991324 Magnetic Gasket for Refr side of a Freezer/Refrigerator FRIGIDAIRE There are no screws to remove on this model. Just start at one corner and begin pulling old gasket out of the groove of the door.
First I would like to say shame on electrolux for making me buy a $55 drawer rail for a 25 cent part. I will not buy another electrolux appliance. Repair is eazy, this was the meat tray. I removed the glass shelf inert and then tilted out the entire drawer/shelf assembly. Ithen pushed down on the drawer holder that was not broken to separate the drawer from the rail. The old part slipped backwards and out of the shelf and the new one slid right back in the same place. I then pushed the drawer onto both front retainers, reinserted the assembly into the fridge, replaced the glass shelf and was done. Very very easy. That must mean that this is a high failur part.
The repair was easy. The problem was the lack of explanation. This may help other customers. I was told by the virtual trouble shooting system that about 30% of the cure was to replace the water filter and 70% was to replace the water valve. I did both and still had the problem. People need to be told why they have to replace the water valve. The reason is this. The valve has a very small leak in it that lets water continue to flow into the freezer compartment drop by drop. Eventually, this freezes and clogs the hole , so no water can pass and thus no ice can be made.In either your web site or another they stated that it may freeze up here, but there was no connection to the water valve.It seemed like it was another topic. Its very hard to see the frozen area, unless you remove it from the freezer area. I wish I was TOLD TO DO THIS, after i replaced the valve It would have saved me a repair bill. I hope this helps others. Take care-Bill
Unscrewed the water line cover. Removed the platic case around the water filter base. Everything went well until I tried to remove the two water hoses. After I finally figured out that I had to push in the release washer while pulling the hoses out, things went well. Unfortunately it took several hours of wasted time and several searches on the internet to finally figure this part out. From there on out it went smoothly. Old base came out with two screws. Reversed process for reinstall of new base. Water hoses just slipped back into place and locked themselves in. Just takes a little patience.
The radiator was not being properly defrosted and the refrigerator and freezer could not keep the temperature. Two things can be causing this, the defrost module which defrost the refrigerator on a regular basis ($110) or the thermostat ($18). I tried the thermostat since it is very easy to do (remove cover plate inside the freezer, cut wires of old thermostat, connect new thermostat by stripping wires. Presto...however the thermostat was NOT the problem. The problem was a blown timer circuit board that controls the regular defrosting. That repair was done by a technician. The board was $110, it seats inside the refrigerator in the control panel area.
Unplug turn water off Removed two screws with nut driver loosen one Disconnected three solenoid valves Disconnected four water lines Plug tubing in, tighten one flare fitting Reattach wires to solenoids Slide under loose screw, replace two screws Turn water on check for leaks plug in get a drink of water
Loosen two screws, unclip electrical connection, remove ice maker, remove l shaped leveling piece of metal from old one, put on new one. Install in reverse order. Hint.. when loosening two screws, use a mirror
When the ice maker is over filling, either the valve is defective or clogged, or the ice maker is at fault signaling the valve to stay open too long. My problem was the latter. I had already replaced the valve, thinking that being only 2 years old, how could the ice maker be faulty. I was wrong. Ice maker unplugs and comes out with 2 screws. A quick swap with the new ice maker and all is well. Simple
The door has nylon gear teeth that wore out and needed replaced. The ice chute came off very easy with 6 screws. I used a punch and pliers to remove the hinge pin. Then the door came off and the new one put on. Very easy. The part was ordered on Sunday and arrived on Tuesday.
Test the light socket first with a bulb that you know is good. If the light still does not come on, unplug the refrigerator, remove the switch by inserting a very small, thin, flathead screwdriver alongside it and pull the switch out slowly with your other hand. There are two wires there. Remove them gently with some needle nose pliers. If you want to test to see if the switch is defective, take a insulated jumper wire, and attach it between the two wires. Plug the refrigerator back in and see if the light comes on. If the light does come on, replace with a new switch by re-attaching the wires and placing it back in the hole firmly.