25344352404 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

I shut the water off under the sink and removed the back piece on the refrigerator, unscrewed the water valve, cut the ends off each plastic hose and reinserted into the new water valve. Then rescrewed the water line into the new water valve and turned on the water. Unfortunately, I was not able to get water out of the door and the ice maker still doesn't make ice. While this was an easy procedure, it didn't help me. I'm not sure I needed to replace the water valve.

First I removed the door. Took off the broken parts and replaced them. Easy and fast to repair.

Removed stuff on door, removed 2 screws on top of door, lifted door off replaced one door closure/hinge bearing and one door closing plate and put door back on and wala no more thump.

Went the typical route of part replacement since I don't own an ohm meter...pull and replace one part at a time. Started with the cheaper parts first, replaced the freezer fan for $40, same problem. Replaced the defrost heater element for $40, same problem. Replaced the thermostat $15 and controller board $150 at same time, bingo problem solved. Had to defrost with the hair dryer each time, biggest pain. Had an issue finding a Utube that showed the water filter system and thermistor removal for this model, otherwise straightforward, but not a 30 minute job.

I followed step by step instruction in the hinge kit; Replacing the old hinge with a new hinge and two new plastic cams in the kit. The kit hinge has an adjustment to level the right door with the left door. Everything is done in 20 minutes for a senior guy like me. Very easy.

I replaced the water valve, but it still did not fix the problem.The old water valve I took out I'm assuming worked fine, I think the real problem is ice building up in pipe or some other blockage.

Parts select was very fast in shipping, very positive experience with them.
I will definitely purchase again from this site.

removed ice maker box and disassembled crusher unit on front of box and installed new housing.

Followed instructions from others on the blog. Shut off water and electricity to the refrigerator. Removed the cardboard plate. Removed the old water valve. Cut the compression valves off and inserted the tubes into the new water valve. Attached the water valve bracket to the fridge. Tightened copper water supply.Turned on the water - no leaks. Plugged the fridge in. Tried the water and ice in the door. No leaks - everything worked perfectly. THANK YOU PARTS SELECT!

Unplugged fridge from outlet. Removed rear panel on freezer side. Removed defrost thermostat from tube and cut wires. Installed new thermostat by matching color coded wires and crimping with supplied connectors and snap back on tube. Reinstalled panel and shelving.

First I loosened the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires...re-installed the new icemaker first attaching the wires and then fitting over the screw holders and tightened the screws. That was it!

removed rear cover, removed screws, diconnected water line connections, cut off old water line connection, installed new compression water line connection, replace screws in water line housing, replace rear cover.

worked fine

Removed the ice maker. Took off the cover and proceed to remove the motor. The only trick was to dis-assemble the electrical connector to replace the wires. I chose to do this rather than splice the new motor into the existing system and it was simple with a little patience.

Easiest repair to make and half / third the money for a new ice maker. The in-laws have ice again (it was over a year).

Installation was completed by following the online Parts diagram. Had to completely remove all parts, including the blades in ice crusher, and re-assemble. Glad the online diagram was clear and easy to read.

The parts supplied were made to fit. The hardest part was getting the original broken tabs out of the internal walls of the fridge with out damaging the internal insulation. I punched the center locking pin through completely, dug out the broken tabs and then reached into the hole with a dental pick and pulled out the center pin. The new parts fit perfectly and with a plastic mallet, tapped the new locking pin into place.

loosen 2 screws
unplug connector
remove
replug
replace
tighten 2 screws
done