14788W0 General Electric Range - Instructions

Removed the oven door and bottom drawer. Removed the oven floor. The igniter bracket was angled in such a way that I had to remove a good deal of the metal thermal shielding underneath the burner element in order to access the bolts on the igniter bracket. Removed the igniter bracket and old igniter. Removed the old igniter from the bracket. Attached the new igniter to the igniter bracket. Snipped the wires attached to the old igniter leaving enough old wire intact to splice in the new igniter. Spliced the new igniter onto the old wiring. Attached the igniter and bracket back on the burner element. Replaced the thermal shielding. Tested igniter operation. Replaced oven floor. Replaced bottom drawer and oven door.

The video accompanying the part was very beneficial, making the repair easy and quick. Your online site was concise and organized. The product was easily identified and ordering was clear and secure. From a person with no ability to fix anything, thank you for helping to solve a problem in an manageable and comfortable way. A very satisfied customer.

i unplugged the ignitor because i noticed it wasnt getting hot..took my multimeter and checked the voltage going to the ignitor..i had sufficient voltage...removed the ignitor and took a ohm test in which i discovered would not ohm out so this confirmed my diqgnosis...apon arrival of new ignitor i had to just install the connector and reinstall,,,poof..back in business...thanks

Removed screws to access bottom "bake" burner. Removed screws which attached igniter to burner. Cut two wires to igniter and using the two supplied ceramic wire connectors, re-connected the igniter and reinstalled igniter with screws. Replaced bottom access panel in oven. Plugged in power. job over.

I could not get a lens cover due to the fact ge does not make any more since the appliance is an older model. Thanks to part select they had the part which I badly needed. It was easy to installed. Thanks again part select.

Unplug the power cord. I turned off the gas just in case. I removed the oven door by pulling straight up on the hinges. Remove the storage drawer below the oven. The screws for the lower burner are located in the center at he back of the oven. Unplug the electrical connections for the igniter. Cut the connector wires to the old plugs so that you can connect the new igniter using the cereamic wire nuts provided. Be sure to leave enough to connect the new wires. Screw the new igniter to the burner. Reverse the steps and put the burner back in place and push the wires back through the hole in the back of the cabinet.

While I was at work, my wife followed the instructions provided to repair our oven. She did not have a 1/4 ratchet, and the adapter made the ratchet to big to fit under the igniter to loosen the screws. She made a makeshift tool by placing the socket on an allen (hex) key. She said the screw had originally been installed crooked so she was not able to loosen it and use her fingers, but rather had to use tools until it unscrewed completely. Other than that she said everything worked great. She doesn’t think it matters which wire is spliced onto which ‘plug’. It would have been nice if GE would have put the screws on top of the igniter.

My nephew who is a plumber actually repaired the stove by removing the old heating element and unscrewing the screws and detaching the electrical connections. He explained that he attached the new element with the screws and reconnected the wires using the wire nuts that was included with the new part. He did a fine job and my mom which is his grandmother is baking her heart out. Thanks to my nephew Adrian McCoy. He saved the day and used "Partselect" to accomplish this goal. Thank you from myself and mom.

I did not do it, I instead had my neighbor put the gasket around the light lens cover and replace it. He considers himself a handy man, so it was easy for him.

bought a new ignitor. Turned 2pole/220volt circuit breaker (for oven)and also 1pole/120volt(for clock) circuit breaker off at circuit box. Took racks out of oven and used 1/4 socket/ratchet to take bottom of oven off . Took rear old ignitor off(2 screws and wiring/wire nuts) and mounted new ignitor(2 new screws and wire nuts).Turned both circuit breakers "on", then lit oven with new ignitor to make sure it worked.(some take up to 3 minutes to ignite) Re-installed racks and closed oven door.

Smooth and quick. Fit perfectly.

Just watched the video.

My 88 year old mother told me they had called a repairman to check there oven, he told here the gas valve needed to be replaced. Part was going to be $ 300.00 and labor another $100. I went to your web site used the troubleshooting guide ordered the $65 part you suggested, used your installation guide and had the oven working in 30 minutes. The repair man was going to rip off the senior citzens for about $300. I will use you site and recommend it to others.

First I got on line and Googled the GE XL 44 technical service guide PDF http://www.cagrimmett.com/justanswer/gexl44.pdf On page 31 is the flow chart for diagnostics for the oven circuity and obtained the information for the igniter /glow bar resistance, it's suppose to be between 50 & 150 ohms. I removed the oven racks and the oven door, it lifts right off from the first detent position, remove the lower drawer, removed the 2 screws at the rear of the bottom panel in the oven and lifted it out, you lift it from the rear and push toward the rear of the oven, front edge is under a lip. From the top now your looking at the bake burner and igniter assembly.
With the power and gas on I switched the oven selector to bake and confirmed the igniter wasn't glowing. Turn the power off or unplug stove, no need to shut off the gas, with no power the safety valve won't operate. Remove the front screw from the bake burner,1/4 in nut driver/ ratchet from here on out. From the bottom of the oven remove the lower heat/ radiation shield assembly screws, 2 on the front and 1 on each side, lower the front and remove, it locates on 2 tabs on the back. I disconnected the wire from the the thermostat, the green square connector then I disconnected the wire from the the safety valve, the red spade connector. I removed the 2 screws from the rear bracket of the burner and lifted the burner and igniter assembly out of the oven. Remove the 2 screws that attach the igniter to the burner. Now take your ohm meter, if your into it this deep you or a friend have one and check the igniter resistance/continuity. Yup it's dead, save it because you have to reuse the connectors. Now get on line with http://www.partselect.com and order part number PS243425.
Your new igniter arrived in a couple of days. Unpack it carefully and gently. Take you new and old igniter and place them side by side with the same orientation, tag or mark the green and red leads on your new one before you cut the leads off your old one, don't cut them too short, splice these two wires to the new igniter with the wire nuts provided. Reattach to the burner, 2 screws. Feed the wires back down through the opening at the back of the oven and reattach the 2 screws from the rear bracket of the burner then the front screw on top. Now plug the green square connector back into the thermostat lead and the red spade connector to the safety valve. Reinstall the lower heat/ radiation shield assembly. At this point I turned the power back on and switched the oven selector to bake and confirmed the igniter was glowing. Don't freak out like I did, it takes 15 or 20 seconds for thermostat to turn the igniter on.
Yup it works, reassemble the rest in reverse order and your done

It was really easy, and my only problem was getting the 3 screws out. I just used some WD40 and liquid wrench to free up the screws. After those were out I was in BUSINESS!!! I then just screwed in the 3 screws, and used my needle nose pliers to reattach the spring and WA-LAH!!! Done deal.