10657051790 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

I pulled the refer from the wall, disconnected the power and removed the cardboard cover at the base. Using a vacuum and compressed air, I cleaned it thoroughly.
I used a screwdriver to lift the locking tab on the 3-wire connector and removed it. The best way to get the three bolts off was with a 1/4" drive ratchet and go to the std nutdriver handle when they were loose. The fan came out carefully with the blade. I removed the blade nut with flat nosed pliers, cleaned it and placed it on the new motor. I replaced the motor and installed the screws. On a do-over I would install onew screw in each hole at least halfway to get the threads started/ threaded. After that the connector slipped in and I spun the blade to check for interference. The blades can be slightly bent, but use of nut tension can also slightly adjust fan alignment as it's tight to the housing.
That's it

Removed the screws that held the control breaket. Then I removed (2) micro switches, and for a cable tie, I slide the old control bracket out and installed the new one purchased from your store. 5 minutes worth of work. THAT IT!!! It was very, very, simple the repair

My husband took the old motor out by taking the screws out. Then, he unplugged the fan. We searched your site for the part. With the pictures on the site, we were able to match the motor exactly. The delivery was really fast. When we received the part, he installed the fan and plugged in the power connector. We have replaced refrigerator fans before but anyone can do this with no experience. Just follow the instructions and you're all set.

New part slipped right into the studs and fit perfectly

remove the front cover. everything else is a quick disconnect type of connection. Nothing to it! I would remove the cover and check these connections anytime the dispenser does not work. Look for broken or disconnected switches. This reapir took me a couple of minutes whereas the repair guy wanted almost 200 bucks to do this job. Parts ran around 30 with shipping.

removed the defrost timer and replaced with new unit now i have a refrigerator again

I first had to identify the faulty part. I ohms checked the micro switch in the door. It was fine. I traced the wiring to the inlet valve at the bottom of the rear of the unit. I checked the voltage to the solenoids and it was good. After checking the schematics on the Whirlpool website, I determined the only possible faulty part was the inlet valve. I found the correct part here on PartSelect and ordered it. When the part arrived I changed out inlet valves by turning off the water supply, unplugging the refrigerator, removing the two inlet valve mounting screws, and disconnecting the wire terminals. The inlet water line was a 1/2" compression nut and the water and ice outlets were hand turn compression nuts. I reversed the removal steps to install the new valve, turned the water on, checked for leaks, plugged in the refrigerator, and the new valve worked perfectly. The feeling of accomplishing a DIY project was only topped by a happy wife who really didn't want to spend the money on a new fridge!

The gooseneck on the icemaker fill tube extends out beyond the back cabinet of the refrigerator, and is easily broken. Luckily, this part is a piece of cake to replace. You'll literally spend more time pulling out your fridge and cleaning out behind it then you will replacing this part.

Shut off water supply line, and turn off ice maker (lift the metal bar in the ice bucket all the way up). Loosen the hose fitting, and remove two screws. Pull out the old tube, and slide the new one in. You may have to wiggle the tube around from the inside to get the alignment correct. Replace screws and fitting. Turn water and ice maker back on, and check for leaks. It really is that easy! It took me longer to type this than to actually replace the part.

Only one potential catch. The instructions warn that you may have to cut the new tube to match the length of the old tube, so make sure you compare the length of the old and new tube. I didn't have to to do anything - the replacement part was the exact same length of the original. If by chance you do need to cut the tube, you'll need small saw of some sort, such as a coping or hack saw.

plastic warped in ,spaced out and, the socket snapped back in place.

I removed the two screws that were readily in view. I then figured out the there was a faceplate which I was able to pry off after removing the temp control knobs. The temp control unit was easily accessible and was held by two screws which I removed with the nut driver. The only difficult part was replacing the plastic tubing which covered the sending unit.

Using a 1/4" nut driver and a philips screwdriver I removed all the screws in the shelf brackets and coil cover and removed coil cover. Removed fan blade and then faulty motor (held in with clips) Installed new motor-two wires (power) and ground (green) pushed fan blade back on and tested, then reinstalled all panels and shelf brackets.

I didn't have to buy a new Ice door kit. The part on the Refrig. door I needed I found out was unavailable. The door parts (Ice door parts and the asembly for the water unit) screws into that part. I found out that I would have to replace the whole refrig. door which was $900.00. I took every apart got me some pvc glue used it on the door and bought the original screw online with some other assorted parts,Door switch, etc. and was able to repair in about an hour. Some of the parts are very fraigle so you have to be very careful or you will be buying some new replacement parts.The new nickel and dime parts are expensive. My Icemaker was leaking where the Ice was clumping together in the bin, and when I checked the unit was $125.00. I found a new one and replaced it for about half that price. I am now very happy! (a least until the next project.)

Parts went right into place as the pictures showed and was working again in about 30 minutes. The only thing that wasn't working was the ice took forever to make, but solved that problem by turning up the temp in the freezer.

I wasn't sure the kit included the part I needed from the pictures, but it did. The part slipped over the flat plastic bracket attached to the right freezer wall and the shelf fit over it. No tools required.

The problem was discovered to be a cracked fill tube head, This part extends behind the refigerator and is VERY vulnerable to breakage when the box is pushed backagainst a wall space! Placing a shim under the vertical part of the fill tube fixed the problem even without replacing it with the new part. So, now I have a spare!