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303781-1-S-GE-WR51X10055        -Defrost Heater and Bracket Assembly
303781-1-S-GE-WR51X10055        -Defrost Heater and Bracket Assembly 303781-2-S-GE-WR51X10055        -Defrost Heater and Bracket Assembly 303781-3-S-GE-WR51X10055        -Defrost Heater and Bracket Assembly https://partselectcom.azureedge.net/Schematics/GE/00125008i03.gif

Defrost Heater and Bracket Assembly

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$64.20
Get this part fast. Average delivery time via standard shipping: 1.8 days.

PartSelect Number PS303781
Manufacturer Part Number WR51X10055
Manufactured by GE

The defrost heater keeps the cooling coils from frosting over. The heater will get hot and melt any ice or frost build up around the coils.

This part works with the following brands: General Electric, Hotpoint, Kenmore.

This part works with the following products: Refrigerator.

This part fixes the following symptoms:

  • Fridge too warm.
  • Freezer section too warm.
  • Freezer not defrosting.
  • Frost buildup.
  • Freezer too cold.
  • Fridge too cold.
  • Too warm.
  • Fridge and Freezer are too warm.
  • Fridge runs too long.

Questions & Answers

Ask our experts a question on this part and we'll respond as soon as we can.

Most Helpful

Question:

Evaporator coils icing up. Replaced defrost thermostat, defrost heater, temperature sensor. Is mother board next? Evaporator fan runs and seems ok feel air flow. Also find that freezer temp controller must be set at Max warm setting #1 to get about 5 deg in freezer. Any recommendations?

Don for model number GSH25IGRBWW
Answer:

Hi Don, Thank you for your inquiry. When humid air passes over your coils, that will cause the ice build up. You have changed most of the major parts that I would think you would have to check. I would also suggest checking your gaskets to see if they are sealing correctly. If your gaskets look fine then you will probably have to look into seeing if there is an issue with your main control board. I hope this helps. Good luck with your repair.

2 people found this helpful.
Question:

I have a GE side by side, the coils are freezing. I have replaced the control panel, thermostat and the defrost heater. The gaskets around the doors are good also turned the freezer down and still the freezer is freezing up.

Dan for model number GSH25KGMBBB
Answer:

Hi Dan, Thank you for the question. I suggest testing the Defrost Thermostat.The best way to do this is to remove the Thermostat from the refrigerator so you can control the temperature of the sensor. You can let the sensor warm up to room temperature. With the sensor warmed up to room temperature the sensor should read approximately 6.2K Ohms at 68°F. With the thermistor submerged is a glass full of ice water, the sensor should be very close to 32°F which should read approximately 16.3K Ohms. If the values that you are getting are far off from these readings, then the sensor is bad and should be replaced. Hope this helps!

Question:

I have a GE side by side freezer model# pss25sgmdbs evaporator coils icing up. Replaced defrost thermostat, defrost heater, temperature sensor. Evap fan works well. Temp adjustment for freezer or refrigirator section can not be set. When changing to warmwr or to cooler temp, after some second it jumps back to the same temperature it was was before.What nexet, main control board or the temperature control board, or both of them? nick

Nick for model number PSS25SGMDBS
Answer:

Hi Nick, Thank you for your inquiry. Where you have replace the defrost thermostat, defrost heater, temperature sensor I would check the electronic control board to see if it is causing the issue. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

Most Recent

Question:

The heater element for allowing water dispenser to not freeze was added to this unit, so we've had no probs since. However in 2014 i replaced a defrost heater element due to probs in the freezer. Worked fine since. I now have prob with refrigerator not being cold enough over past few days and now the water dispenser not working. I haven't been able to take everything out of the freezer yet to look. But can a bad defrost heater element cause the water to stop dispensing if it has caused the coils behind the big panel of freezer to ice up? Thanks

Dale for model number GSH25JSXLSS
Answer:

Hi Dale, Thank you for your inquiry. If the refrigerator section is too warm, the defrost heater and bracket is one part you will need to check, but there are some other parts that you will need to check to see which one is causing the issue. You will need to check the temperature sensor, the dc condenser fan motor, the compression ring, the evaporator fan blade, the dispenser door assembly or flapper, the fresh food door gasket, the inverter kit with jumpers, the evaporator thermistor clip and the defrost thermostat. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

Question:

How do I check the old part to make sure this is the problem?

Mike for model number gsh25jfxlww
Answer:

Hi Mike. Thank you for the question. You can test the Defrost Heater with an Multi Meter. You will need to check for Continuity. The meter should read between 1-50 ohms. Hope this helps!

Question:

I want to install a defrost heater & bracket but i can not remove the board at the back of the freezer. Please give me instruction how to access to remove the old defrost heater.

rosita for model number PSS26SGPASS
Answer:

Hi Rosita, Thank you for your inquiry. There is a video on our website that you can reference on how to install the. You will find the video under part number PS303933. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

Question:

The gasket door is too warm? Thank you

Gustavo Mejia for model number GSS25JETACC
Answer:

Hello Gustavo, thank you for contacting us. It is normal for the gasket to get warm. If it is getting hot the first thing you will want to do is clean the coils off. They are located usually at the back of the fridge near the bottom or behind the front kick plate. Hope this helps!

Installation Instructions Provided by PartSelect customers like you.

Average Repair Rating: 3.4 / 5.0, 41 reviews What's this?
1-15 of 41
 

406 of 444 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Customer: Richard from West Alton, MO

Freezer was still simi-cold but refrigerator was not.

Called a friend that lead me down the right path so i did a search for the part's and found this site. The trouble shooting that outher's had done was the same as mine, I descovered that the coil's in the freezer had frozen up complety. They are located behind a plasic cover in the freezer area, it had frozen up due to the Defrost heater element being defective, when i took it out it was black and burnt looking,It is located at the bottom edge of the coils,2 bolt's and a plug in on each side. That is probally the only part i needed but i went ahead and replaced the sensor and timer also.The sensor wires in the freezer( located on the very top of the coils) had to be cut and the new ones spliced in, only 2 wires and easy access. I also put shrink wrap on the splices to protect them from mosisture. The timer was located in the fridge area by the temp. control knobs. 2 small bolts and a plug in was all on it. It's been 5 day's and so far so good. The worst part was defrosting the frozen coils. This was done with the wife's hair dryer and a couple towel's to soak up the water. Don't just let the water go down the drain hole because the tray that catches it will not hold all the water from the frozen coil's. Just a reminder, don't forget to unplug the unit when working on it. Hope this help's and was very easy install, Cost about $125 in part's and a couple hours of labor(did a good cleaning while it was eampty for the repair) Good luck.

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153 of 239 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 1- 2 hours
Tools: Nutdriver
Customer: joseph from mastic, NY

Vegetables freezing in fridge, freezer getting warm, always running

1st symptom, water dispenser not working.
2nd symptom, carrots freezing in fridge lower drawer.
3rd symptom, 3 days later, freezer getting warmer and warmer, fan always running, back of inside wall of freezer building up with ice.
Originally changed water valve for dispenser thinking it was the only problem.
After noticing the freezer getting warmer and doing some reading, I decided the best guesstimate would be the defrost thermostat or heater behind the inside freezer wall. Defrosting all that ice to get behind the wall is the time consuming part of this job. Not wishing to defrost and troubleshoot to determine which component failed, they are cheap enough to just buy both the heater and t-stat and replace both and be done with it. It turned out to be the heater, an element encased in glass, the glass turns black on the ends when it is toasted. This is a very easy fix. If you do not have crimpers for the butt connectors for the 2 wires for the t-stat, you can use a wire nut to twist them together and seal it with silicone/rtv. The heater just plugs in on both ends. Remember it is glass and very delicate, take your time. Start to finish this could be a 3 hour job, but most of that time is melting the ice, cleaning up and putting everything back in the freezer.

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84 of 110 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Screw drivers, Socket set
Customer: Greg from Windsor, WI

Freezer clod-fridge warm, coils were frosting up cutting off air flow

First unplug then remove all food and the ice cubes from the freezer only..Then removed the traysand then the 2 panel screws. Defrosted the coils with a hair dryer,removed the 2 screws holding the heater and then unplugged the wires from each side.Installed the new heater and now has been fine for 12 days now..The sensor- I just spliced it in the exact way the old sensor was wired.All seems fine so far. Was alot cheaper to buy the parts and install myself than to pay for 1 service call..

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63 of 74 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Customer: Kim from Ridge Manor, FL

Refirgerator side started to get warm. Soon after the freezer side started to thaw.

Repair was very easy. First, be sure to turn the appliance off. I removed the 5 screws holding the panel in the back of the freezer. I used a hair dryer to thaw the condenser coils so I could access the heater and related wiring. I removed the 2 screws holding the heater in place and unplugged the heater. Plugged in the new heater and replaced everything in reverse order. I then cut the 2 wires to the defrost thermostat and removed it. I attached the new thermostat to the wires with wire nuts. Then replaced the cover in the freezer and turned everything back on. It is important to use the hair dryer to remove the ice from the condenser coils.

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58 of 72 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Pliers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Customer: Michael from American Fork, UT

Freezer compartment would freeze sold so the fridge would go warm.

Emptied the fridge and freezer. Unplugged it and in so do doing defrosted the freezer coils. Replace the listed parts, for they were right there easy to get at and replace. Between the three of them we had an 80% chance of getting what was wrong. The freezer and the refridgerator are both working just fine. No more warm milk.

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45 of 57 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Defrost Heater and Bracket Assembly
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: Less than 15 mins
Tools: Screw drivers
Customer: Eddie from Freeport, NY

Not cold & saw ice accumulated on freezer back panel

-Disconnect the power supply wire& turn temp control inside refrigerator to 0!
-15 mins spent on remove (5 screws) the back panel inside freezer, melt ice then replace the heater (2 screws) on the bottom! Black wire on left & pink wire on the right! Make sure both end has good connection to the heater!

-30 mins to drain all water from the bottom (back side) of the refrigerator, suck & clean all dust & dirt from the front & back side!

-Set both temp control knots to 5 & put back all the food!

-If no ice build up on the panel after 10 days & then the repair is good!

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41 of 51 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: 1- 2 hours
Tools: Screw drivers, Socket set
Customer: james from san diego, CA

Little or no cooling in refrigerator, compressor on 24hrs.

First, removed shelves and items in freezer.
Then, removed back panel using socket set and philips screwdriver which exposed iced over coils, then defrosted coils using hair dryer set on hot-high. This was the most time consuming part of repair-30 minutes. removed heater and bra's 2 screws and pulled electrical leads from both ends. Reconnected the two leads to new heater and bra, then reattached using 2 screws back onto coil frame. Cut thermostats 2 lead wires-one pink the other orange, reconnected leads from new thermostat with wire nuts, applied silicone to protect connections, then reattached onto coil frame. reattached back panel using socket set and philips screwdriver to re-attach bolts and philips screws, then cleaned any remaining water from the defrosting with dry towel. Attached freezer shelves, items and plugged in refrigerator freezer. Appliance works like it's brand new again.

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32 of 41 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Screw drivers
Customer: kevin from plant city, FL

Frige was warm and freezer was freezing up

i turned off the fridge and unpluged it , took out all the shelfs in the freezer and took off the back panel to get to the heater , the heater is only held in with 2 screws and unhook the 2 wires and replace the heater , and then thermostate is on top of the coils , i just cut the 2 color coded wires and replace the theromstate , was easyer then i thought ,

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30 of 36 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Defrost Heater and Bracket Assembly
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Pliers, Screw drivers
Customer: FERNANDO from MIAMI, FL

Refrigerator not cooling due to ice buildup on coils

Removed shelves from freezer section and removed protective cover using a screwdriver and nutdriver. 5 screws.
Upon removal of the cover, I noticed the coils totally cover with ice. At this point I noticed that the defrost heater was burnt out. I removed the heater using screwdriver and pliers and tested the heater according to instructions from Parts Select website.
Since the coil was exposed, I also tested the defrost thermostat according to Parts select instructions and found it to be working properly. i also tested the defrost timer and found it OK.
I replaced the heater, closed the protective cover, replaced the shelves and plugged the unit on.
It has been working just fine since then..
In addition to saving money, i saved myself the agravation of looking for a repairman and having to wait for THEIR convenience to to the work.

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18 of 23 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Defrost Heater and Bracket Assembly
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Screw drivers
Customer: Gerald from Ada, MI

Freezer coils not thawing and fridge getting warm.

Replacing the heater is very easy. Remove the wire racks and the two lower rack bracket screws. Remove the two screws to the back panel, unclip the ground wire and remove the panel. Two screws hold he heater on and two wires for the connection.
However, this did not solve my problem. The story is this. The fridge was getting warm because the coils were freezing over. I called the local repair guys "poncho and lefty" and they came out and replace the themostat and charged me $150. It still froze over a week later. They came back and said it must be the circuit board and charged me just for the $125 part. Nope, it still froze over in a week. So I thought I would take things into my own hands and tell poncho and left to hit the trail. I then ordered a new heater because the old one looked bad even though it checked out okay with an ohm meter. Unfortunately, that didn't solve the problem either. The last thing is to replace are the temp sensors. But before I ordered anything I submitted my problem to a "fix it" forum and someone suggested to check the part number of the themostat that was put in. This turned out to be a brilliant observation. It seems poncho and lefty replace the thermostate with one that is used with a timer. This fridge has the timer built into the circuit board and has a very different temp range than the one they replace it with. Their first clue should have been that the wires were a different color than the one they were replacing and that the part number was totally different than the one they took out. So I ordered a new thermostat and the three temp sensors and replace all of this and the unit works as good as new. The forum also told me that the bullet shaped temp sensor were faulty and should all be replaced, which I did.
Now I have all new parts, so it should be good to go until the compressor takes a nose dive. Hopefully, that will not be for 5 or 6 more years.

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14 of 19 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Defrost Heater and Bracket Assembly
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Screw drivers
Customer: richard from cleburne, TX

Freezer freezing up

Unplug refrigerator,remove the freezer bulb, trays and rear cover to expose coils and heating element/defroster, The telltale sign its bad was it looked like an old flashbulb/burned, the old one was open, melt enough ice to remove and replace the defrost element(2 screws 2 wires) and reinstall components, reconnect power, thats it.

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9 of 10 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Pliers
Customer: Henry from Daly City, CA

Freezer thaws on top, no fan running in freezer

REPLACING THE DEFROST HEATER & BRA:
1- Empty freezer.
2- Remove all shelves.
3- Remove white painted metal wall plate opposite
the freezer door. There are 2 phillips head screws
attaching it.
4- There may be ice build-up on the freezer coils,
thaw the ice using a hair dryer.
5- Remove the 2 phillips screws holding the
defrost heater to the freezer coil frame, at the
bottom of the frame.
6- Install the defrost heater to the frame.
7- Replace metal panel.

REPLACING THE DEFROST THERMOSTAT.

1-Perform steps 1-4 above.
2-Locate the thermostat at the top of the freezer
coil in the freezer.
3-Cut the wires connecting the thermostat.
4-Connect the new thermostat to the wires that
were connecting the old thermostat, connecting
the wire color to the same color wire.

Note: Connect the wires by using wire splices
available at radio shack. Use splices
sized for 20 guage wire, and wrap with
electrical tape to protect from moisture.

5- Replace metal panel.

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8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
Time to do repair: 1- 2 hours
Tools: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Customer: Gregory from El Dorado, AL

Freezer temp too warm refrigerator side too warm

Thanks to others who also gave some detailed instruction on repairs I was able to do the same. I have a GE Profile side by side refrigerator/freezer Model No. PSC25PSSCSS The first repair I did was to remove/replace freezer defrost thermostat sensor that is cliped to condenser tube I snipped the wires close to the thermostat and pulled it off the tube I stripped the ends of the wires and twisted the strands then placed a piece of heat shrink tube onto the wire pushing it away from the exposed wire then I soldered the two color coded wires together then I pulled the heat shrink over the conection and used a lighter to heat up the heat shrink until it sealed the conection repeating this on the othr wire as well. I then removed the Old defrost Heater element by removing to screws then I disconected the two wires by simply pulling the connector plugs off both ends of the heater element assembly. This fixed the freezer being too warm for a short time but it started getting warm again that's when I noticed the defrost fan was not working, when you have the door open to freezer push the door switch in you should hear the fan come to life and blow hard. The fan was replaced I had to remove everything to get to it it's pretty simple to do it just unplugs make sure you order the right fan though My fan comes with the Thermistor already integrated into the plug this makes it easier. This fixed the problem with both Freezer & Refrigerator The Temperatures returned to normal Freezer 0 degrees Refrigerator 37 degrees I also checked out the refrigerator side Condenser I noticed only that the Condensate pan was starting to rust so I will remove it and use some Muretic acid to clean it up and then spray it with some Cold Gavanize with Zinc you can get this spray paint at Home Depot it seals and prevents rust. Or you can order a new one for about $ 16 bucks but it will start rusting just like the old one did eventually if you do order a new Condensate Pan I suggest spraying it before you reinstall it so that it will not rust. Greg H. Eldorado, AR

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8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Defrost Heater and Bracket Assembly
Level of Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
Time to do repair: More than 2 hours
Tools: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
Customer: Christopher from Perkasie, PA

Fridge not cold

On this fridge, you MUST take out the ice maker. First took out the shelves. Then take out the ice maker. This is done by taking out the four screws on the side that hold the assembly containing the bulb. Then there is one screw that holds that assembly to the icemaker. Do not take out any other screws, this is a mistake I made that cost me a few more hours figuring out how to get the other parts to mount correctly to the assembly containing the bulb. The icemaker should lift right out once the white plus is unplugged from the assembly that holds the light. Then took out the shelf brackets and finally could remove rear panel. Found it all iced up as others have. Took 1.5 hours to manually defrost while using sponges to sop up all the water that would run into the drain if you let it. Was about a gallon of water so using sponges worked well. Heater was open when checked with a meter, but you could tell it was blown by the way it looked. All cloudy. Put things back in reverse order. Had an issue with the icemaker shooting water out and missing the icemaker. Eventually was able to align better. This fridge had also just stopped dispensing water. I think the lines may have been frozen in the back, because one day after defrosting manually, the water dispenser started working again Overall this took about 4 hours. But a few days later, the water dispenser again stopped working. Not sure about that one. I have a valve already that I will try for this issue but somehow I don't think its the valve.

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7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
Time to do repair: 1- 2 hours
Tools: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench set
Customer: JAMES from HENDERSON, CO

Evaporate coils freezing up-refrigerator/freezer warm

Level of difficulty, as far a mechanical skill goes is relatively easy; however, everything in the interior of the freezer (including icemaker) must be removed to get to the defrost thermostat. The defrost heater only needs the racks and back panel removed. It probably took about 45 minutes with a heat gun to melt the ice off of the coils so that I could work on it-need lots of towels/rags to pick up the water.

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1-15 of 41

Model Cross Reference

This part works with the following models:

PartSelect Number: PS303781
Manufacturer Part Number: WR51X10055
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