
Tilt Lock Hinge Mounted Surface Element - 6" WB30X359
$
72.39
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PartSelect Number PS244055
Manufacturer Part Number WB30X359
Manufactured by
GE

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Product Description
Tilt Lock Hinge Mounted Surface Element - 6" Specifications
This tilt lock hinge mounted surface element kit includes a 6 inch, two wire, 1350 watt surface element, and a terminal block with all three-wire units. These high rise elements do not come with an attached trim ring.

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Troubleshooting
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Element will not heat
This part works with the following products:
Range, Cooktop.
This part works with the following products:
General Electric, Hotpoint.
Part# WB30X359 replaces these:
AP2027832, 2637, WB30X359, PM30X0120, PM30X120, WB30X0359, WB30X359R
Customer Reviews
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Bonnie T - March 21, 2019
Verified Purchase
Burner element
The ceramic piece was broken rendering the element useless. Can you replace it?
March 22, 2019
Hi Bonnie, Thank you for your review. I’m sorry to hear that happened, From reviewing your order, we show that you have already contacted our customer service line to have the issue addressed. If there is anything we can do for you in the future, please let us know.
Raymond W - December 12, 2018
Verified Purchase
Old GE range heat element
The part:
Arrived in a reasonable amount of time.
Exactly what I ordered
Great shape
Works like desired/expected
Good job, met my expectations, would order from PartSelect again
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Customer Repair Stories
Average Repair Rating: 4.0 / 5.0, 21 reviews.
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Sorry, we couldn't find any existing installation instruction that matched.
tabs soldered on end of coils (2) into which wire connectors are fitted are oversize
file/grind inner corners to fit into ceramic blocks correctly
Other Parts Used:
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william from BOWIE, MD
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Replacement of broken element
Read and follow the instructions. Be careful when stripping old wires to attach to new element. Fit the element to ceramic casing prior to attaching wires. If new element does not seem level after replacement heat a large pot of water. The element will expand and the weight of the pan of water will settle the element. "Physics 101"
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Thomas from Boulder Creek, CA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
2 of 3 people
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Element had burned out.
The repair was straight forward; Loosen the screw at the tilt mechanism allowing the burner element to come off the stove and then unscrew two electrical connectors freeing the burned element. The installation could have been as easy as reversing the procedure however the lugs on the new element were poorly placed making it difficult to attach the two halves of the supplied insulator with the clips that secure the two halves. The insulator required the wires to be bent 90 degrees which further complicated the installation. A dremel and some dielectric grease completed the task to my satisfaction. It should have been a 15 minute job. The new element functions far better that the burned element prior to its demise. I should have changed it long ago. I bought the 8" element as a back-up because this stove has only one large burner. However, given my experience with the improvement of the 6", I'll change it shortly. And knowing I may run into the same installation hiccup, I'll prefit the ceramic insulator.
Other Parts Used:
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Roger from Cypress, TX
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
0 of 2 people
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All burners on stove needed to be replaced due to age
Followed instruction that came in the new parts. Each element took about 10 minutes to remove, inspect the wires, clean the connections and reconnect the new elements. The element covers that came with the kit were easy to install, and everything fit just fine. Most important thing is to turn of the electrical power to the unit BEFORE you start.
Other Parts Used:
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ROY from CULPEPER, VA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
2 of 4 people
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The burner sparked and no longer worked.
I held a flashlight directly on the repair sight while my husband disconnected the old burner unit and put on the new. The extra light was essential as it's kind of dark and part of the repair takes place partly under the stove top and our bodies were blocking the light coming from above. Also pay attention to how it is put together and make a note of it before you take it apart. Other than that it was very easy to replace the bad burner.
Other Parts Used:
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Karen from Lancaster, MA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
1 of 4 people
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burner element had burned out
turn off power at breaker. lift element from stove top lift out drip bowl . remove clips and ceramic cover. unfasten three wires. using new element install three wires to new burner ,clip on ceramic cover then slide burner back in to stove top and install drip bowl turn on power and test
Other Parts Used:
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Mark A from Industry, PA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
0 of 3 people
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burner burnt out
replace it .works great!
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Joann from Townsend, GA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
0 of 1 people
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Replaced rusted out Burner
I have tilt up burners on my Range, and decided to replace one that have finally rusted out the part that holds it in place. Repair was easy- installed according to the enclosed instructions. Parts arrived in good condition and very timely. A+
Other Parts Used:
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alan from Tallahassee, FL
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
0 of 1 people
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Two 6" and two 8" burner elements needed replacing on a 36 year old counter range.
First of all I want to thank PartSelect. I have been looking for these parts for over 15 years. I am so happy to have found PartSelect. 1. Turn off Range 2. Turn off Breaker to the Range at your home Breaker Box. 3. Turn on Range to see if you turned off the right Breaker if so then turn Range off. 4. Lift Burner Element up. 5. Take off Silver Trim Ring and Drip Bowl. 6. With screw driver unscrew the screw that is holding the Burner Element to the Range. It is located at the base of the hing where the Burner Element attaches to the Range. 7. Pull the Burner Element out just far enough to see the entire Element where the wires attach. 8. Snap off the two silver clips from each side of the White Glass Insulation Block with a screw driver. 9. With an adjustable wrench (crescent) loosen and remove the screws holding one of the wires to the Burner Element. 10. Find the same Terminal on the new Burner Element and reattach the wire to the new Burner Element Terminal. 11. Now do the same to the remaining Terminal. 12. Install the White Glass Insulation Block over the two Terminals and secure with the two silver clips. 13. Reattach Burner Element to Range with screw. 14. Replace Silver Trim Ring and Drip Bowl. 15. Turn on Breaker and test by turning on Range. You will smell a slight electrical burn smell for a moment while the new Elements heat for the first time. This will dissipate quickly. NOTE: I used the old White Glass Insulation Block I did not use the one that came with the new Burner Element. I found the old one to be the better choice. I saved the new one in case needed at a later date. The Job to replace both the 6" & 8" Burner Elements took less than 30 Minutes. I think it took longer to write this replacement instruction. LOL Very easy...Thanks again PartSelect. Charles McAllen, Texas
Other Parts Used:
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Charles from McAllen, TX
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
60 of 66 people
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Bad switch plus a disintegrating element
Moved into a house built in 1976 about 7 years ago that came with an old but nice looking GE electric stove.
Stove worked well until about a year ago when the switch for the 8" element became erratic. Having been raised where DIYS was SOP I didn't even consider calling for help instead, armed with the stove model number, I went to the internet (How on earth did I ever survive before internet?) and found this site where I quickly found the exploded view of my stove, IDed the switch, ordered and received it within a day or so. Fantastic turn around time!
Now I've never ever worked on an electric stove so I was quite methodical in my approach.
First I read the instructions (you know, when all else fails…) that came with the new switch, then I pulled the stove out, unplugged it and removed the tin back that covers the switches. I drew a diagram of the old switch orientation and which wires attached to what. Then I disconnected the wires, removed the knob and the two screws hiding behind it that hold the switch to the stove.
Oops, the new switch was not identical to the old!!
First: I noticed was that the stem for the knob was longer BUT they proved break off notches so that it can be shortened.
Second: the stem on the old switch was a half round while the new stem was square. I tried the 'half round' knob on the square stem and it went on firmly. Nothing ventured nothing gained.
Third: the terminal orientation did not match. So armed with my diagram and the instructions I made sure I knew which terminal was which (they are labeled). Once assured I knew what went where (I made notes) I installed the new switch and attached the wires (following my notes).
Being an optimist I reinstalled the tin back, plugged the stove in and pushed it back into position before (with my legs, arms and fingers crossed) I tested the switch (which was not easy considering the position I was in). Lo and behold, no puff of smoke and…ta-da…everything worked as it should.
All in all, upon receiving the switch the whole thing took less than 30 minutes.
Recent.
Less than two weeks ago one of the 6" elements fell apart, still worked but lost the supports that rest on the trim ring. Back to the internet to ordered a new element and new trim rings (just for the cosmetics). Again great service, I think I received my order the second day.
Along with the element they also supply new screws plus the spring clips which hold the ceramic insulator together. There's only two wires to contend with so its easy to determine which is the left wire and which is the right. The old terminal screws were locked in pretty good so I used pliers to hold the terminal while loosening them. There's very little slack in the wires so it was a tad awkward reattaching them to the new element.
I did notice that the threaded hole on the new element seemed to be slightly larger than the old. I noticed this when I used the old screws, one would tighten, the other did not so I replaced with the screws they supplied (Duh!). Well I do have an excuse, the new screws were longer which I feared would prevent the insulator from 'closing'.
I probably spent the most time attaching the insulator. I found I needed to fiddle with position of the terminals before the two halves of the insulator would meet. I splayed the wires out slightly then cocked the wire ends slightly so that the wires would neatly leave the side of the insulator. I also adjusted the terminals and the bendable wire part on the element so that they were parallel to each other.
ANYBODY can do this
Stove worked well until about a year ago when the switch for the 8" element became erratic. Having been raised where DIYS was SOP I didn't even consider calling for help instead, armed with the stove model number, I went to the internet (How on earth did I ever survive before internet?) and found this site where I quickly found the exploded view of my stove, IDed the switch, ordered and received it within a day or so. Fantastic turn around time!
Now I've never ever worked on an electric stove so I was quite methodical in my approach.
First I read the instructions (you know, when all else fails…) that came with the new switch, then I pulled the stove out, unplugged it and removed the tin back that covers the switches. I drew a diagram of the old switch orientation and which wires attached to what. Then I disconnected the wires, removed the knob and the two screws hiding behind it that hold the switch to the stove.
Oops, the new switch was not identical to the old!!
First: I noticed was that the stem for the knob was longer BUT they proved break off notches so that it can be shortened.
Second: the stem on the old switch was a half round while the new stem was square. I tried the 'half round' knob on the square stem and it went on firmly. Nothing ventured nothing gained.
Third: the terminal orientation did not match. So armed with my diagram and the instructions I made sure I knew which terminal was which (they are labeled). Once assured I knew what went where (I made notes) I installed the new switch and attached the wires (following my notes).
Being an optimist I reinstalled the tin back, plugged the stove in and pushed it back into position before (with my legs, arms and fingers crossed) I tested the switch (which was not easy considering the position I was in). Lo and behold, no puff of smoke and…ta-da…everything worked as it should.
All in all, upon receiving the switch the whole thing took less than 30 minutes.
Recent.
Less than two weeks ago one of the 6" elements fell apart, still worked but lost the supports that rest on the trim ring. Back to the internet to ordered a new element and new trim rings (just for the cosmetics). Again great service, I think I received my order the second day.
Along with the element they also supply new screws plus the spring clips which hold the ceramic insulator together. There's only two wires to contend with so its easy to determine which is the left wire and which is the right. The old terminal screws were locked in pretty good so I used pliers to hold the terminal while loosening them. There's very little slack in the wires so it was a tad awkward reattaching them to the new element.
I did notice that the threaded hole on the new element seemed to be slightly larger than the old. I noticed this when I used the old screws, one would tighten, the other did not so I replaced with the screws they supplied (Duh!). Well I do have an excuse, the new screws were longer which I feared would prevent the insulator from 'closing'.
I probably spent the most time attaching the insulator. I found I needed to fiddle with position of the terminals before the two halves of the insulator would meet. I splayed the wires out slightly then cocked the wire ends slightly so that the wires would neatly leave the side of the insulator. I also adjusted the terminals and the bendable wire part on the element so that they were parallel to each other.
ANYBODY can do this
Other Parts Used:
-
John from Merriam Woods, MO
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
4 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Questions and Answers
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Sorry, we couldn't find any existing answers that matched.Try using some different or simpler keywords, or submit your new question by using the "Ask a Question" button above!
Carol
September 23, 2017
For the tilt lock hinge elements - the metal triangle with the ceramic disk in the middle is broken & rusted. Can i buy a replacement without buying the entire element? If i kludge it back together to keep the element in place, will it do what it's supposed to do as long as the metal is touching the element & the ceramic disk (even though metal is broken)?
For model number JBS16G*K1
Hi Carol,
Thank you for your question. Unfortunately no. You would have to replace your element. It would not be safe to use it while broken like that. Good luck with your repair.
3 people found this helpful.
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Nancy
October 25, 2019
I have an 80's era electrical cooktop and the elements are heating up, but there is only one and it is superhot. What replacement electrical elements should I order for this cooktop? Mine does have the hinged element and the insulator box.
For model number P6510J2AD
Hi Nancy,
Thank you for your question. Before we can assist you in verifying the correct burner element for your stove, we would need the model number from it. Here is a link from our website that you may reference on where to find the model number on your appliance, https://www.partselect.com/Find-Your-Range-Model-Number.aspx. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!
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Irene
October 7, 2022
This is a GE range model JMP26GJ. need a 6" coil single connector. Do you have it?
For model number WB30X0359 single connector 6:
Hello Irene, thank you for contacting us. We have researched the model you have provided and have found that the part you are looking for is part number PS244055. If you would like assistance placing an order, please contact customer service. Good luck with your repair!
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Sam
December 2, 2017
Does this part ship with the small bolts?
Hi Sam, Thank you for the question.Yes, the assembly comes with the 2 small bolts. What you see in the picture will be shipped to you. Hope this helps!
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This part works with the following models:
PartSelect Number: PS244055
Manufacturer Part Number: WB30X359
Manufacturer Part Number: WB30X359
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