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Defrost Heater Harness Kit

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13 Reviews
$ 55.55   In Stock

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PartSelect Number PS1993872
Manufacturer Part Number WR51X10101
Manufactured by GE
Product Description

Defrost Heater Harness Kit Specifications

This dual heater kit replaces the single heater. It's redesigned to use two heating elements for a better defrost cycle.

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Troubleshooting
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Fridge too warm | Freezer section too warm | Freezer not defrosting | Freezer too cold
This part works with the following products:
Refrigerator.
This part works with the following products:
General Electric, Hotpoint, Kenmore.
Part# WR51X10101 replaces these:
AP4355467, 1399613, WR51X10101, WR51X10032, WR51X10053, WR51X10097
Questions and Answers

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5 questions answered by our experts.
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    Michael
    October 6, 2017
    I was able to find a video on your site (the site is terrific by the way!) to replace my heater in my fridge, but this video shows a dual element heater being replaced with a dual element heater. My current freezer has a single element heater and the replacement part i was sent is a dual element heater. The wiring is slightly different and the kit came with an extension wire to make it work. I was just looking for a video that shows me the safest way to do that. The model number for my refrigerator/freezer is tfx20jabgww and i was sent replacement heater part #wr51x10101.Please let me know if there is a video showing that.
    For model number TFX20JABGWW
    Hi Michael, Thank you for the question. I just checked our video again and others on YouTube and they all say refer to the instructions. Here is some info I located. What you will need to do is remove the wire that used to go to the left side of the old heater (usually the blue wire) and run it over to the right side of the refrigerator. Both the blue and pink wire will be hooked up on the right side of the new heater. In some cases, if the blue wire is not long enough to reach to the other side, it will need to be extended. Included with the new heater is an extension wire and crimp connector to extend the wire.The new heater should fit in the same place that the old heater went, it can be a tight fit but it will work. Hope this helps!

    19 people found this helpful.

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    Raymond
    January 23, 2018
    Freezer and ice maker work, but when it goes into defrost, it the freezer gets wet, vegetables thaw out and the ice melts into a big blob in the holder. Could this the heater and thermostat that needs to be replaced??
    For model number GSH22JSTASS
    Hello Raymond, Thank you for your inquiry. I would check the heater and thermostat, as well as the temperature sensor and electronic control board-which has the defrost controls built into it. You can test the parts with a multimeter. If you are unfamiliar with how a multimeter functions, there are YouTube videos available to assist you. Hope this helps!

    7 people found this helpful.

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    Evelyn
    May 13, 2019
    How do i diagnos defrost heater,
    For model number GSS20IETA WW
    Hello Evelyn, thank you for your question. First unplug the fridge itself, and then unplug the wires of the Defrost Heater from the unit. Use a multi meter to test the ohms. It should read between 110 and 150 ohms to be functioning correctly. We hope this helps.

    6 people found this helpful.

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    Kathy
    June 13, 2019
    I just bought this double defrost heater part but there aren't any instructions included. My fridge has 2 separate, single defrost heaters: One has a blue wire on right side and white wire on left, the second defrost heater has a pink wire on right and white wire on left. I understand that both the pink and blue wires plug into the right side on the new double heater, but what do i do with the white wire from the original old single defrost heaters?
    For model number TFX22KRDA WW
    Hello Kathy, thank you for your question. I just checked our video again and others on YouTube and they all say refer to the instructions. Here is some info I located. What you will need to do is remove the wire that used to go to the left side of the old heater (usually the blue wire) and run it over to the right side of the refrigerator. Both the blue and pink wire will be hooked up on the right side of the new heater. In some cases, if the blue wire is not long enough to reach to the other side, it will need to be extended. Included with the new heater is an extension wire and crimp connector to extend the wire.The new heater should fit in the same place that the old heater went, it can be a tight fit but it will work. Hope this helps!

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    Ruben
    July 12, 2019
    Refrigerator not cooling only to 30 on freezer and 36 on fefrigarator
    For model number GSL22JGDBLS
    Hello Ruben, Thank you for the question. I suggest checking the Temperature Sensor, PartSelect Number PS304103.At 70 degrees the resistance should be 9.3K ohms, 90 degrees would be 7.7K ohms. at 100 degrees would be 6.2K ohms, and 120 degrees would be 4.3K ohms. If the thermistor reads outside of range then it needs replaced. Hope this helps!

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    Related Parts:
      Part Videos

      Replacing your General Electric Refrigerator Defrost Heater Harness Kit

      Customer Repair Stories
       Average Repair Rating: 3.9 / 5.0, 202 reviews. What's this?
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      Sorry, we couldn't find any existing installation instruction that matched.
      Ice box and freezer would not get cold,the back wall of the freezer was covered with ice
      1. I had to defrost the ice off of the back wall of the freezer with a blowdryer.
      2. Removed the four 1/4'' screws and removed the back panel.
      3. Defrosted all of the ice off the coils and heater.
      4. I replaced the defrost thermostat and heater by following the directions that came with them. The directions are very clear and easy to follow. I had a single element heater, and the replacement was a double element, the directions even explained how to rearrange the wires to make it work. The whole job only really consisted of cutting two wires that are color coded on the thermostat and resplicing the new ones in. I used scotch locks and electrical tape for the splices. The element had connectors on it so I just removed two screws, unplugged two wires and plugged them on the new one.
      The greatest thing about this repair was that I troubleshot the problem using the PartSelect website, ordered the parts and they arrived at my house in less than 24 hours.
      Thank You.
      • Greg from Aledo, TX
      • Difficulty Level:
        Really Easy
      • Total Repair Time:
        1- 2 hours
      • Tools:
        Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
      • Parts Used:
        WR51X10101, WR50X10068
      562 of 602 people found this instruction helpful.
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      Defrost Heater blows out, refrigerator frosts up, then stops cooling
      Disclaimer - if you aren't confident about doing this repair, call a repair specialist in. Also, take care not to damage the freezer coils as they have refrigerant in them that I'm told is harmful if it leaks. It may also be under pressure. The instructions that follow won't require you to touch the coils. There is no need to unplug the refrigerator or disconnect the water supply to do this repair. The screw driver you will need is a phillips (the one withe the + head).

      1st, take out your frozen food (which, if you need to do this repair may not be frozen) and put it in a cooler or the refrigerator.
      2nd, remove the ice cube bucket and dump the ice cubes in the cooler to help keep the frozen food cool. Turn the ice cube maker off.
      3rd, remove the freezer shelves.
      4th, locate the panel covering the freezer coils. It's a panel at the back of the freezer. It hides the freezer coils and protects them from damage. It's held in place by two screws located at the top left and right corners of the panel.
      5th, unscrew the screws holding the panel to the refrigerator.
      6th, detach the clip at the top of the panel.
      7th, remove the panel. You should see the coils now. The coils will be covered in frost if the defroster heater has failed. If the coils are not covered in frost, there may be another reason for the refrigerator failing to cool.
      8th, even if the coils are covered in frost, you should also inspect the defroster heater at the bottom, underneath the coils. The business end of it is a long tube running horizontally between two wires. If it's black like a badly burned out light bulb, then it's failed. If the bulb appears fine, you may have a different reason for your refrigerator and freezer frosting up. We'll assume that the defroster heater has blown out, and proceed.
      9th, place a towel at the bottom of the panel space, to soak up any water that melts and runs down. There is a drain under the coils. It collects water that melts during the defrost cycle, but I'd rather mop up the water instead of relying on the drain.
      10th, use hot air blowing from the hair dryer to defrost the coils. Just play the air from the hair dryer over the coils, starting at the top, and working down. The frost will quickly melt and the water will be soaked up by the towels. If you want things to go faster, you can throw hot water on the coils to melt them faster, but that produces more water to mop up, and makes a big mess. It's also dangerous to have water lying around if you then decide to use the hair dryer to continue defrosting the coils.
      11th. MOST IMPORTANT. Don't use your screwdriver or any other sharp object to pick away at the frost on the coils. If you damage the coils the refrigerant could leak out. I'm told that it's dangerous stuff. Furthermore, I expect that you'd have to buy a new refrigerator if you damaged the coils.
      12th, once you've defrosted the coils, locate the defroster heater and bracket assembly again. It's held in place by two screws, and has two insulated wires running into it on either side. Unscrew the screws, disconnect the wires and remove the assembly. Throw it away - there are no useful parts in it.
      13th, install the new defroster heater and bracket assembly by connecting the wires to it, mounting it back into its place, and rescrewing the screws.
      14th, put the panel back in place, replace the clip, and screw the panel back in place.
      15th, turn the ice cube maker back on and replace the ice cube bucket and shelves. Put your food back into the freezer.
      16th, use the freezer and refrigerator as normal. If the defroster heater fails again (I'm on my third one in less than six years), you'll notice frost building up on the panel at the back of the freezer before your freezer and refrigerator stops cooling. The frost build up is your signal to defrost the freezer and buy another defroster heater and bracket assembly. I don't know why this part is so weak, and don't know any fix except to keep replacing it.
      • Stuart from Lynchburg, VA
      • Difficulty Level:
        Easy
      • Total Repair Time:
        15 - 30 mins
      • Tools:
        Screw drivers
      • Parts Used:
        WR51X10101
      406 of 428 people found this instruction helpful.
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      frige not cooling, freezer working, frost buildup. also door for ice dispenser stuck open!
      first I removed shelves, bottom drawer, one drawer slide. then removed plastic cover from inside, light bulb, removed two screws from back panel (inside refrigerator, removed panel. You will see heater towards bottom. Remove screws (2) that hold heater in place, disconnect wires from heater, thermostat is
      attached to line just above where heater is attached.
      You will find that is quicker to cut thermostat wire, then splice together with wire nut. reassemble in reverse order. To check ice door, you must remove inner door panel, mine had to selenoid rusted and locked up. Removed , cleaned, reinstalledm worked ok. Hope this helps someone. Thank you partselect from your good service!
      • stan from winder, GA
      • Difficulty Level:
        A Bit Difficult
      • Total Repair Time:
        1- 2 hours
      • Tools:
        Nutdriver, Screw drivers
      • Parts Used:
        WR50X10068, WR51X10101
      80 of 101 people found this instruction helpful.
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      The back of my freezer section was covered with ice.
      1. Important: First you will need to prepare for water from melted ice. Plug the drain hole in the bottom rear of the freezer. Have plenty of rags near by. A pan or small bucket is helpful.

      2. Unplug refrigerator

      3. Remove (4) screws (2) w/screwdriver and (2) w/nut driver. You can remove the light cover to get it out of the way but you don't have to.

      4. Remove the evaporator cover (The rear wall)

      5. Melt and remove any ice build up. Remember those rags?

      6. Remove (2) screws from the heater bracket

      7. Remove the failed heater. My old heater was a single element. The new heater was a dual element. This made no difference.

      8. Disconnect (2) wires.

      9. Re-route and reconnect (2) wires. The wires were re-routed because the new heater has both wires on the same side. Not a problem.

      10. Install new heater on the bracket (2) screws

      11. Replace cover (4) screws

      12. Power up the refrigerator
      • Brian from Cary, NC
      • Difficulty Level:
        Really Easy
      • Total Repair Time:
        15 - 30 mins
      • Tools:
        Nutdriver, Screw drivers
      • Parts Used:
        WR51X10101
      72 of 78 people found this instruction helpful.
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      I Placed A Heat Gun In The Freezer Section To Defrost The Coils And Did Not Return In Time. The Heat From The Heat Gun Rose Upward And Melted All Of The Soft Plastic Parts. The Good News Was That The 16 Parts Were Not Expensive But The One Main Part That Was Needed To Put It All Back Together Took 3
      I replaced all of the plastic parts as well as the heat coil that is mounted at the bottom of the coils that keeps the coils from freezing up. If I had not melted the plastic parts the coil could have been replaced in 2 days, 1 day to receive the part and the next to do the work. This is the second time I have had to replace this heater.
      53 of 101 people found this instruction helpful.
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      Fridge and Freezer would no longer cool (coils iced over)
      First I posted the symptoms on appliance repair forum. Within a very short amount of time, an expert responded with suggestions (that ended up being right on!) and links to How-to articles, diagrams, and the correct parts catalog. They diagnosed it as a failed defrost heater or a bad defrost thermostat that caused the heater to go bad.

      I removed all the food from the freezer, removed the shelving and ice maker tray, then removed the back panel (nut driver). The coils were severely iced over. I let the coils defrost (didn't take long in the summer heat). The water from the melted ice completely saturated about two full size bath towels. DO NOT let the coils drain into the normal drain hole. Then I removed the defrost heater (2 screws) and the glass element was dark and cloudy like a burnt-out light bulb.

      I placed my order on Parts Select with normal priority shipping. The defrost thermostat was listed as in-stock and the defrost heater was listed as "on order". Both parts arrived 4 days later. The thermostat was a genuine GE part and the heater was a universal aftermarket. My original was a single element heater and the replacement was dual element. The wiring was slightly different, but they included instructions on how to wire up the dual element. The heater wires had to be re-routed and extended (wire cutting, stripping, and crimping are required). The extra length of wire and the wire crimp connector were included with the replacement heater. I also (per the instructions) sealed the crimp connector with RTV sealant. After completing the wiring, I re-attached the heater using the 2 factory screws. Then I had to cut the thermostat wires and splice in using wire nuts (not included) and RTV to seal the connection (not included).

      Then I re-attached the back panel using the factory screws and attached the grounding clamp. I installed the shelves and ice maker tray and started the unit. It has been running fine for two weeks now.

      The overall repair experience was fantastic. This fridge is only 3 years old and has broken twice in the last year costing me over $500 in food (total for both failures). I also bought a chest freezer last year when the fridge failed the first time. That minimized my frozen food loss this year. The failure last summer was the controller board. I paid the GE technician to come out and fix that because I did not know about this website. I am an engineer and I much prefer the DIY approach, especially when they make it so easy on this website to diagnose and get the right parts.

      My only complaints (and they are so minor that complaint might be too harsh of a word) are:
      The repair was easy, but would have been significantly easier if they had supplied a direct replacement single element heater.
      I wish they would have included the RTV sealant in the repair kit. I happened to have it, but I have to imagine that not everybody will and they won't know that they need it until they read the instructions.
      The replacement dual element heater was slightly wider and thus a slightly tighter fit than the original equipment.
      Lastly (and this really is no big deal). I got my "Order Shipped" e-mail 6 days after the parts had arrived.

      Overall 2 thumbs up!
      • Erik from Chardon, OH
      • Difficulty Level:
        Easy
      • Total Repair Time:
        1- 2 hours
      • Tools:
        Nutdriver, Screw drivers
      • Parts Used:
        WR50X10068, WR51X10101
      50 of 58 people found this instruction helpful.
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      Warm Refrigerator, No door water
      Remove the following: lower rails, evap cover, ice maker assembly, attaching hardware for light and evap fan. Follow directions for replacing defrost heater. cut and splice wires for new defrost thermostat, and temperature sensor using adhesive line shrink tube. reassemble. Work like new.
      41 of 67 people found this instruction helpful.
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      frost builds up in freezer section and refrigerator stops working slowly. manually defrost for 24-48 hours and starts working perfect. Goes through the cycle again after a week.
      As advised by the forum just replaced the defrost heater assembly now the refrigerator works perfect. did not have to replace the thermostat.
      My nephew had exactly same problem on ge refrigerator - replaced the defrost heater assembly and the problem is solved. Just remove the back panel in the freezer compartment, disconnect the cable, remove the nuts and replace the assemble. It is very simple. Bought both assembly from parts select.com - got next day delivery. they are great. would do business in future.
      • David from West Palm Beach, FL
      • Difficulty Level:
        Really Easy
      • Total Repair Time:
        15 - 30 mins
      • Tools:
        Nutdriver
      • Parts Used:
        WR51X10101
      34 of 35 people found this instruction helpful.
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      Freezer Cold, Refrigerator Section Warm
      The problem with this model is usually a burned out heater assembly, when the freezer is still freezing, but the fresh food section is warm. To check, first disconnect power from refrigerator. Remove food and then shelves from freezer section. Remove the screws that hold the back freezer panel in place. Remove back panel and the coils will be exposed. If they are covered in ice the heater is most likely the problem. At the bottom of the coils below the heater assembly is a drain hole plug this hole with a rag. Place a large towel in bottom of freezer pan beneath the coils to catch the water. I do not recommend any method to melt the ice from the coils but a hair dryer, do not chip at the ice or you will most likely damage the coils. After you have defrosted the coils and removed all water from the unit, remove the two screws that hold the heater element in place, this element is directly below the coils. Look at the element, if it is burnt black, this is a tell tale sign it is bad. If that is the case it will need to be replaced. Remove the electrical wires located on te end of unit, the new unit will have instructions with it, reconnect the electrical wires per instructions, remount heater with the same mounting screws that held it in place. Be sure to remove rag from drain hole, replace back freezer panel with screws, replace shelves, and plug refrigerator back in. If your problem was a cold freezer section but a warm fresh food section this should fix your problem. In conclusion, this problem and the fix for it is indicative to these model's ge refrigerator's
      • CLIFFORD from SPRING CITY, PA
      • Difficulty Level:
        Easy
      • Total Repair Time:
        30 - 60 mins
      • Tools:
        Screw drivers, Socket set
      • Parts Used:
        WR51X10101
      29 of 35 people found this instruction helpful.
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      Freezer stopped working
      Came home in the morning and found that everything in the freezer was defrosted. The fridge and freezer were warm so I checked the web to see what the problem could be. After about 15 minutes I found what the two causes could be. Since the parts were so cheap, I decided to change both the defrost heater and thermastat. It's been about a week since I changed the parts and no problem.
      • Gerry from Hamilton, NJ
      • Difficulty Level:
        Really Easy
      • Total Repair Time:
        30 - 60 mins
      • Tools:
        Pliers, Screw drivers
      • Parts Used:
        WR50X10068, WR51X10101
      29 of 44 people found this instruction helpful.
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      Thank you for voting!
      Customer Reviews
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      13 Reviews
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      Model Cross Reference
      This part works with the following models:
      PartSelect Number: PS1993872
      Manufacturer Part Number: WR51X10101
      Brand
      Model Number
      Description
      Kenmore
      36348042894
      Refrigerator
      Kenmore
      36348042896
      Refrigerator
      Kenmore
      36348042897
      Refrigerator
      Kenmore
      36348047894
      Refrigerator
      Kenmore
      36348047896
      Refrigerator
      Kenmore
      36348047897
      Refrigerator
      Kenmore
      36348252894
      Refrigerator
      Kenmore
      36348252896
      Refrigerator
      Kenmore
      36348252897
      Refrigerator
      Kenmore
      36348257894
      Refrigerator
      Kenmore
      36348257896
      Refrigerator
      Kenmore
      36348257897
      Refrigerator
      Kenmore
      36350221000
      Refrigerator
      Kenmore
      36350222000
      Refrigerator
      Kenmore
      36350227000
      Refrigerator
      Kenmore
      36350232000
      Refrigerator
      Kenmore
      36350237000
      Refrigerator
      Kenmore
      36350242000
      Refrigerator
      Kenmore
      36350247000
      Refrigerator
      Kenmore
      36358042894
      Refrigerator
      Kenmore
      36358042896
      Refrigerator
      Kenmore
      36358042897
      Refrigerator
      Kenmore
      36358047894
      Refrigerator
      Kenmore
      36358047896
      Refrigerator
      Kenmore
      36358047897
      Refrigerator
      Kenmore
      36358062894
      Refrigerator
      Kenmore
      36358062896
      Refrigerator
      Kenmore
      36358062897
      Refrigerator
      Kenmore
      36358067894
      Refrigerator
      Kenmore
      36358067897
      Refrigerator

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