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36348252894 Kenmore Refrigerator - Overview

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Drawer Slide Rail - Right Side – Part Number: WR72X240
$49.61
In Stock
Drawer Slide Rail - Right Side
★★★★★
★★★★★
(66)
Part #WR72X240
This drawer slide rail is for the right side of your refrigerator. The drawer slide rail attaches horizontally to the refrigerator wall and supports the drawer so it can easily slide in and out. If the drawer slide track is broken, not sliding, or the fridge is not dispensing water, replacing this part could solve the issue. Make sure to unplug the refrigerator from the power source and wear gloves to protect your hands when installing this part. Refer to the diagram provided by the manufacturer for further guidance and instruction.
Drawer Slide Rail - Left Side – Part Number: WR72X239
$54.10
In Stock
Drawer Slide Rail - Left Side
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★★★★★
(34)
Part #WR72X239
This is a manufacturer-approved drawer slide rail for your refrigerator. This slide rail is for the left side of the fridge. All you need to complete this repair is a Phillips screwdriver. Remove the shelves above and below the slide rail so you have room to access it. Unscrew the slide rail and replace it with the new one.
Defrost Heater Harness Kit – Part Number: WR51X10101
$69.02
On Order
Defrost Heater Harness Kit
★★★★★
★★★★★
(17)
Part #WR51X10101
This dual heater kit replaces the single heater. It's redesigned to use two heating elements for a better defrost cycle.
Bearing Slide – Part Number: WR1X2048
$18.22
In Stock
Bearing Slide
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★★★★★
(3)
Part #WR1X2048
Sold individually.
Bottom Hinge Assembly – Part Number: WR13X10020
$55.23
In Stock
Bottom Hinge Assembly
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★★★★★
(30)
Part #WR13X10020
Comes with both cam risers. This hinge kit is suitable for the bottom of either the freezer door or the refrigerator door of some refrigerators.
Evaporator/Condensor Fan Grommet – Part Number: WR02X10098
$16.05
In Stock
Evaporator/Condensor Fan Grommet
★★★★★
★★★★★
(14)
Part #WR02X10098
This evaporator fan motor grommet, or condenser fan grommet is built for refrigerators. It provides a cushion between the fan motor and the motor mounting bracket. It is made or round, black plastic and is approximately one inch in diameter. If your grommet is torn or damaged and you are getting noise from the fan motor, you may need to replace it. This is an OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer.
Light Bulb - 40W – Part Number: 40A15
$21.95
In Stock
Light Bulb - 40W
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★★★★★
(10)
Part #40A15
This 40-Watt light bulb is sold individually. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, so this bulb is compatible with a variety of appliance types including refrigerators, ranges, microwaves, and dryers. It features a frosted glass bulb with a standard metal socket base, which allows you to easily unscrew the burnt-out light and twist the new bulb into place.
LIGHT SWITCH – Part Number: WR23X37285
$38.32
In Stock
LIGHT SWITCH
★★★★★
★★★★★
(65)
Part #WR23X37285
The interior light of your refrigerator is controlled by a switch that is activated when the door is opened and closed. If your refrigerator light will not turn on, there could be an issue with the switch. The switch is spring loaded and is a generally closed type of switch meaning there should be no continuity when the button is depressed, and continuity through the switch when the button is not depressed. This plastic, white, OEM switch is sourced directly from the manufacturer, is sold individually and is easy to replace. The repair usually takes less than 15 minutes and requires a flat blade screwdriver and needle nose pliers.
Defrost Timer – Part Number: WR9X489
$61.39
In Stock
Defrost Timer
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(13)
Part #WR9X489
This device acts like a clock. It continually advances and alternates between activating the cooling cycle and the defrost heater.
Hinge Cam Riser – Part Number: WR02X10140
$17.15
In Stock
Hinge Cam Riser
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★★★★★
(10)
Part #WR02X10140
This part helps with the closing of the door and helps keep it in position.
Run Capacitor – Part Number: WR55X24064
$61.39
In Stock
Run Capacitor
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★★★★★
(7)
Part #WR55X24064
This part helps the compressor kick on and off while maintaining a constant temperature to keep things frozen in your freezer. This part has been updated by the manufacturer and may appear different than the original, but should function the same.
Package of 12 Screws – Part Number: WZ4X244D
No Longer Available
Package of 12 Screws
Part #WZ4X244D
This is a package of twelve Phillips-head screws. They can be used as replacement screws in refrigerators, ice makers, or freezers. Be sure to check that your appliance model is compatible with these screws. The screws are approximately ¾ of an inch in length.

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Defrost Heater blows out, refrigerator frosts up, then stops cooling
409 of 435 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Stuart from Lynchburg, VA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Disclaimer - if you aren't confident about doing this repair, call a repair specialist in. Also, take care not to damage the freezer coils as they have refrigerant in them that I'm told is harmful if it leaks. It may also be under pressure. The instructions that follow won't require you to touch the coils. There is no need to unplug the r efrigerator or disconnect the water supply to do this repair. The screw driver you will need is a phillips (the one withe the + head).

1st, take out your frozen food (which, if you need to do this repair may not be frozen) and put it in a cooler or the refrigerator.
2nd, remove the ice cube bucket and dump the ice cubes in the cooler to help keep the frozen food cool. Turn the ice cube maker off.
3rd, remove the freezer shelves.
4th, locate the panel covering the freezer coils. It's a panel at the back of the freezer. It hides the freezer coils and protects them from damage. It's held in place by two screws located at the top left and right corners of the panel.
5th, unscrew the screws holding the panel to the refrigerator.
6th, detach the clip at the top of the panel.
7th, remove the panel. You should see the coils now. The coils will be covered in frost if the defroster heater has failed. If the coils are not covered in frost, there may be another reason for the refrigerator failing to cool.
8th, even if the coils are covered in frost, you should also inspect the defroster heater at the bottom, underneath the coils. The business end of it is a long tube running horizontally between two wires. If it's black like a badly burned out light bulb, then it's failed. If the bulb appears fine, you may have a different reason for your refrigerator and freezer frosting up. We'll assume that the defroster heater has blown out, and proceed.
9th, place a towel at the bottom of the panel space, to soak up any water that melts and runs down. There is a drain under the coils. It collects water that melts during the defrost cycle, but I'd rather mop up the water instead of relying on the drain.
10th, use hot air blowing from the hair dryer to defrost the coils. Just play the air from the hair dryer over the coils, starting at the top, and working down. The frost will quickly melt and the water will be soaked up by the towels. If you want things to go faster, you can throw hot water on the coils to melt them faster, but that produces more water to mop up, and makes a big mess. It's also dangerous to have water lying around if you then decide to use the hair dryer to continue defrosting the coils.
11th. MOST IMPORTANT. Don't use your screwdriver or any other sharp object to pick away at the frost on the coils. If you damage the coils the refrigerant could leak out. I'm told that it's dangerous stuff. Furthermore, I expect that you'd have to buy a new refrigerator if you damaged the coils.
12th, once you've defrosted the coils, locate the defroster heater and bracket assembly again. It's held in place by two screws, and has two insulated wires running into it on either side. Unscrew the screws, disconnect the wires and remove the assembly. Throw it away - there are no useful parts in it.
13th, install the new defroster heater and bracket assembly by connecting the wires to it, mounting it back into its place, and rescrewing the screws.
14th, put the panel back in place, replace the clip, and screw the panel back in place.
15th, turn the ice cube maker back on and replace the ice cube bucket and shelves. Put your food back into the freezer.
16th, use the freezer and refrigerator as normal. If the defroster heater fails again (I'm on my third one in less than six years), you'll notice frost building up on the panel at the back of the freezer before your freezer and refrigerator stops cooling. The frost build up is your signal to defrost the freezer and buy another defroster heater and bracket assembly. I don't know why this part is so weak, and don't know any fix except to keep replacing it.
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No power to the fan and compressor
222 of 302 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Christian from Kearneysville, WV
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
I have a fridge in my garage. I have found that a glass of ice water or a cold drink outside is very important to me. When I discovered melting ice dripping onto the garage floor I was very upset. I spun the fridge and found that the compressor and fan weren't starting. I got out my multi-meter and discovered that power was not makin g it to these components. I did some research and found the wiring diagram online. There really isn't too much going on with a fridge and the most likely candidate seemed to be the run capacitor. I ordered the part, replaced it in a few minutes and the fridge began working again.
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Refrigerator temp was warm
126 of 146 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Adrian from Louisville, KY
  • Really Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver
Per the trouble shooting guide on the home page of the website. I suspected the defrost timer was bad because ice had heavily accumulated on the back wall of the freezer compartment and the temperature inside the refrigerator was warm. First, I removed all the freezer racks. Then removed the (4) screws on the back wall in the freezer c ompartment. I then removed the ben from the ice maker to allow more room. Once I saw all the ice, I unplugged the refrigerator, and used a hair dryer to defrost ( it took about an hour to get it all). Once the ice was all gone, I then moved into the refrigerator compartment and removed the top shelve. This allowed me more room and access to the defrost timer which was behind the back panel. I used the trouble shooting guide to test the old timer prior to removing the new one from the package, (just in case I needed to send it back). Through this test I determined that the timer was bad, it wasn't the heating element or the t-stat. It was very easy to access, I removed the two knobs and lifted up the panel. I located the defrost timer and removed the screws as directed. I replaced the timer just as I had removed it, plugging in the electrical terminals per the removal process. I then reversed the order and put the panel and top shelve back on. Once all complete, I then moved back into the freezer compartment and replace the back panel and then the ice ben. I plugged it in and haven't had a problem since. This site has saved me a tremendous amount of money, a service contractor quoted us $300, to determine the problem. I ordered the part and it was sitting on our door stoop the next morning.
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