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36350247000 Kenmore Refrigerator - Overview

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Refrigerator Ice and Water Filter – Part Number: MWFP
$74.23
In Stock
Refrigerator Ice and Water Filter
★★★★★
★★★★★
(82)
Part #MWFP
This OEM ice and water filter fits side-by-side and bottom-freezer GE models. The most common reason you would need to change this part is if you have never updated your model and it is no longer filtering your water. This also may lead to your refrigerator not dispensing water or ice properly. Manufacturers recommend you change your filter every six months to ensure it properly filters impurities. Depending on the model, a red light might also indicate that the filter is due for a replacement. Note: As per the manufacturer, this is an updated water filter. If you have never installed the updated part or your old model was made by Culligan, you may need the adapter to install the filter. See related parts. This filter is located inside the refrigerators upper right corner. It is common for water to drip from the dispenser when being changed so place a cloth underneath before you begin this repair. To remove the filter, turn it to the left until it releases without pulling down. Fill the new filter with tap water to prepare it. Position the new filter into the holder taking note of the arrows. The arrow on the front should be facing out. Gently push up on the filter and turn it to the right to secure it. Do not over-tighten. To release air in the system run 1-1/2 gallons of water through it. If your model has a reset button, press and hold this for a few seconds to reset it.
Drawer Slide Rail - Right Side – Part Number: WR72X240
$49.61
In Stock
Drawer Slide Rail - Right Side
★★★★★
★★★★★
(66)
Part #WR72X240
This drawer slide rail is for the right side of your refrigerator. The drawer slide rail attaches horizontally to the refrigerator wall and supports the drawer so it can easily slide in and out. If the drawer slide track is broken, not sliding, or the fridge is not dispensing water, replacing this part could solve the issue. Make sure to unplug the refrigerator from the power source and wear gloves to protect your hands when installing this part. Refer to the diagram provided by the manufacturer for further guidance and instruction.
Drawer Slide Rail - Left Side – Part Number: WR72X239
$54.10
In Stock
Drawer Slide Rail - Left Side
★★★★★
★★★★★
(34)
Part #WR72X239
This is a manufacturer-approved drawer slide rail for your refrigerator. This slide rail is for the left side of the fridge. All you need to complete this repair is a Phillips screwdriver. Remove the shelves above and below the slide rail so you have room to access it. Unscrew the slide rail and replace it with the new one.
Ice Maker – Part Number: WR30X10093
$207.55
In Stock
Ice Maker
★★★★★
★★★★★
(98)
Part #WR30X10093
This 10 by 5 inch ice maker (Electromechanical Icemaker Kit, Ice Maker Assembly) produces ice. This particular model will produce seven crescent shaped cubes every cycle. It is constructed of plastic and metal, and comes in black/white. This kit includes a set of installation instructions, a 4-pin round plug-in connector, 6 post plug-in connectors, tube and fill cup. The ideal temperature of a freezer is zero degrees Fahrenheit. If the temperature in your freezer is at an appropriate level yet ice is still not being made, it could be an issue with the water inlet valve or your ice maker assembly. If you determine it is the ice maker, this is the replacement you need. The ice maker can break from normal wear and accidental damage. Ice makers will need to be replaced every 3-10 years depending on the frequency of usage and water quality. This model is mounted on the freezer wall.
Defrost Heater Harness Kit – Part Number: WR51X10101
$69.02
On Order
Defrost Heater Harness Kit
★★★★★
★★★★★
(17)
Part #WR51X10101
This dual heater kit replaces the single heater. It's redesigned to use two heating elements for a better defrost cycle.
Dispenser Door Assembly or Flapper – Part Number: WR17X11653
$33.60
In Stock
Dispenser Door Assembly or Flapper
★★★★★
★★★★★
(93)
Part #WR17X11653
This “Dispenser Door Assembly” (Door Recess Assembly, Ice Door Assembly, Dispenser Door, Refrigerator Dispenser Ice Chute Door Kit, Dispenser Door Flap, Ice Chute Door, Flapper) keeps the room air from infiltrating the freezer. Once the lever is pressed, the door flap opens and allows the ice to dispense into your container. If your door flapper is broken, it could allow outside air to enter the freezer and alter the inside temperature. You may notice frost buildup surrounding the dispenser area. The door flap can disconnect from the dispenser lever, or the tabs that hold it in place may break. Frequent use may distort the sealing face and cause air leaks and frost buildup. This part mounts in the ice dispenser, and measures approximately 3.25 inches in diameter. It is constructed of plastic and rubber, and comes in white/black. This part is sold individually.
Bearing Slide – Part Number: WR1X2048
$18.22
In Stock
Bearing Slide
★★★★★
★★★★★
(3)
Part #WR1X2048
Sold individually.
Bottom Hinge Assembly – Part Number: WR13X10020
$55.23
In Stock
Bottom Hinge Assembly
★★★★★
★★★★★
(30)
Part #WR13X10020
Comes with both cam risers. This hinge kit is suitable for the bottom of either the freezer door or the refrigerator door of some refrigerators.
Union Connector - 5/16 Inch to 5/16 Inch – Part Number: WR02X11330
$15.00
In Stock
Union Connector - 5/16 Inch to 5/16 Inch
★★★★★
★★★★★
(11)
Part #WR02X11330
Quick connector for plastic water line - 5/16" to 5/16"
Evaporator/Condensor Fan Grommet – Part Number: WR02X10098
$16.05
In Stock
Evaporator/Condensor Fan Grommet
★★★★★
★★★★★
(14)
Part #WR02X10098
This evaporator fan motor grommet, or condenser fan grommet is built for refrigerators. It provides a cushion between the fan motor and the motor mounting bracket. It is made or round, black plastic and is approximately one inch in diameter. If your grommet is torn or damaged and you are getting noise from the fan motor, you may need to replace it. This is an OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer.
LIGHT SWITCH – Part Number: WR23X37285
$38.32
In Stock
LIGHT SWITCH
★★★★★
★★★★★
(65)
Part #WR23X37285
The interior light of your refrigerator is controlled by a switch that is activated when the door is opened and closed. If your refrigerator light will not turn on, there could be an issue with the switch. The switch is spring loaded and is a generally closed type of switch meaning there should be no continuity when the button is depressed, and continuity through the switch when the button is not depressed. This plastic, white, OEM switch is sourced directly from the manufacturer, is sold individually and is easy to replace. The repair usually takes less than 15 minutes and requires a flat blade screwdriver and needle nose pliers.
Defrost Timer – Part Number: WR9X489
$61.39
In Stock
Defrost Timer
★★★★★
★★★★★
(13)
Part #WR9X489
This device acts like a clock. It continually advances and alternates between activating the cooling cycle and the defrost heater.

Common Symptoms of the 36350247000

How this model fails, and the parts that fix it.

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Leaking water valve
8478 of 12456 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James from Centerville, OH
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
Removed black cardboard covering on back of refrig with nut driver (6 screws), turned off water supply to pump, removed cooper waterline to pump with adjustable wrench, removed 1 screw holding pump to refrigerator, removed plastic waterline from pump by turning hose counter clockwise. Inserter plastic water line in new pump by screwing li ne in clockwise, pushed orange plastic stop around waterline into pump, connected cooper water line to pump first wrapping threads on pump with teflon plumbers tape, reinstalled pump to refrig and cardboard back on refrig with 6 screws.

One side note:.

This is the second pump which has burst at the blue plastic seam in seven years.
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Defrost Heater blows out, refrigerator frosts up, then stops cooling
409 of 435 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Stuart from Lynchburg, VA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Disclaimer - if you aren't confident about doing this repair, call a repair specialist in. Also, take care not to damage the freezer coils as they have refrigerant in them that I'm told is harmful if it leaks. It may also be under pressure. The instructions that follow won't require you to touch the coils. There is no need to unplug the r efrigerator or disconnect the water supply to do this repair. The screw driver you will need is a phillips (the one withe the + head).

1st, take out your frozen food (which, if you need to do this repair may not be frozen) and put it in a cooler or the refrigerator.
2nd, remove the ice cube bucket and dump the ice cubes in the cooler to help keep the frozen food cool. Turn the ice cube maker off.
3rd, remove the freezer shelves.
4th, locate the panel covering the freezer coils. It's a panel at the back of the freezer. It hides the freezer coils and protects them from damage. It's held in place by two screws located at the top left and right corners of the panel.
5th, unscrew the screws holding the panel to the refrigerator.
6th, detach the clip at the top of the panel.
7th, remove the panel. You should see the coils now. The coils will be covered in frost if the defroster heater has failed. If the coils are not covered in frost, there may be another reason for the refrigerator failing to cool.
8th, even if the coils are covered in frost, you should also inspect the defroster heater at the bottom, underneath the coils. The business end of it is a long tube running horizontally between two wires. If it's black like a badly burned out light bulb, then it's failed. If the bulb appears fine, you may have a different reason for your refrigerator and freezer frosting up. We'll assume that the defroster heater has blown out, and proceed.
9th, place a towel at the bottom of the panel space, to soak up any water that melts and runs down. There is a drain under the coils. It collects water that melts during the defrost cycle, but I'd rather mop up the water instead of relying on the drain.
10th, use hot air blowing from the hair dryer to defrost the coils. Just play the air from the hair dryer over the coils, starting at the top, and working down. The frost will quickly melt and the water will be soaked up by the towels. If you want things to go faster, you can throw hot water on the coils to melt them faster, but that produces more water to mop up, and makes a big mess. It's also dangerous to have water lying around if you then decide to use the hair dryer to continue defrosting the coils.
11th. MOST IMPORTANT. Don't use your screwdriver or any other sharp object to pick away at the frost on the coils. If you damage the coils the refrigerant could leak out. I'm told that it's dangerous stuff. Furthermore, I expect that you'd have to buy a new refrigerator if you damaged the coils.
12th, once you've defrosted the coils, locate the defroster heater and bracket assembly again. It's held in place by two screws, and has two insulated wires running into it on either side. Unscrew the screws, disconnect the wires and remove the assembly. Throw it away - there are no useful parts in it.
13th, install the new defroster heater and bracket assembly by connecting the wires to it, mounting it back into its place, and rescrewing the screws.
14th, put the panel back in place, replace the clip, and screw the panel back in place.
15th, turn the ice cube maker back on and replace the ice cube bucket and shelves. Put your food back into the freezer.
16th, use the freezer and refrigerator as normal. If the defroster heater fails again (I'm on my third one in less than six years), you'll notice frost building up on the panel at the back of the freezer before your freezer and refrigerator stops cooling. The frost build up is your signal to defrost the freezer and buy another defroster heater and bracket assembly. I don't know why this part is so weak, and don't know any fix except to keep replacing it.
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Replace water filter
226 of 350 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Alfred from Novato, CA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Unscrew old filter and remove(counterclockwise). Line up arrow on new filter with arrow on connection housing. Turn clockwise till resistance met. Do not overtighten. Follow directions. Simple.
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