This capacitor (Refrigerator and Freezer Compressor Run Capacitor, Run Capacitor) provides the voltage or energy current required to start the compressor and keep it running. It allows the compressor in your appliance to easily cycle on and off. This capacitor mounts directly onto the compressor starting relay. If the capacitor is faulty the compressor may get unusually hot and draw excessive amperage. It the compressor overheats, it may fail to run until it cools down again. The compressor may also get noisy from overheating. If this part is totally electrically open, it is defective (often due to overheating) and needs to be replaced. The part measures 1 inch by 1-1/2 inches, and is constructed of plastic with two metal wire terminals. This item includes 1 capacitor, sold individually. This part comes in black.
Repair Tip: When replacing the capacitor, check the old one for any signs of damage, overheating, or arcing, as that may suggest there is a bigger problem with your appliance.
Replacing your Whirlpool Refrigerator Capacitor
Troubleshooting
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Fridge too warm | Will Not Start | Fridge and Freezer are too warm | Freezer section too warm
Clicking & popping for about 30 sec. when compressor starts
As shown on the YouTube link sent with email receipt. Removed back panel. Removed the clip securing the parts with long nose pliers. Unplugged the old, replugged the new. Replaced the clip to secure.
Unfortunately, the capacitor and relay did not fix the loud clicking issue.
intermittent clicking noise; otherwise fridge seemed to be working fine
Googled "intermittent clicking noise" or something similar and consensus was it was either the capacitor or compressor start relay. You-tubed videos on how to replace these. Looked easy. Just unplug them from the condenser and replace. Contacted Part Select and staff said 50% of the the time it was the capacitor, 50% of the time it wa
... Read mores the relay. I was in a time crunch so I ordered both and they came in a couple of days. I replaced the capacitor but the clicking noise continued. I replaced the relay and problem solved! Maybe I could have gotten away with just replacing the relay, but I had them both by then and figured with a 10 year old fridge, better replace them both at the same time and be done with the problem. So far, so good.
Refrigerator wouldn’t get cold. Fan was working and compressor would try to start and then it would click and turn off and the cycle would just repeat.
Pulled the refrigerator out from the wall, I had unplugged it prior so it didn’t burn out the compressor. Put both new pieces together, I ordered both just in case they were both bad. Used the screwdriver and removed the screws from the bottom cover. Removed the silver wire thing, unplugged the wire connector and pulled out the old pie
... Read morece. Plugged the wire connector into the new piece and pushed the new piece into the silver prongs, replaced the silver wire thing, put the back on the refrigerator and replaced the screws and crossed my fingers. Plugged it in, turned on the refrigerator and freezer on from inside the refrigerator and joila it started right up and is working. I am a 63 year old female, and had watched the video first on how to remove and replace it.
lots of clicking/ both fridg/freezer warm then recooling
went on this website to fine info ALWAYS GO TO TYE OF APP. FIRST THEN TYPE IN MODEL NUMBER...THAT WAY YOUR GOING TO GET THE INFO ONLY TO YOUR APP. then search under symptom .." DO LOTS OF READING HERE ",CLICK ON COSTUMER REPAIRS thats were i found additional info on my problem..now on to the fix.. it stands to reason that on my appy. anyw
... Read moreays that if the to parts plug into each other then you should think smart and get both avoid the coming "i told you so, you should have ordered the other part to" didnt cost that much extra... word of advice here .. i have big hands so when " they say" to plug both together then plug into the compressor...DONT!!!! plug the start device in first then plug in capacitor... almost forgot!!!! make sure ALL ELECTRICAL PLUGS AND WIRES ARE CLEAN-NOT BURNT ECT... used a can of electric contact cleaner-NOT ON THE NEW PARTS JUST THE COMPRESSOR AND THE WIRE THAT PLUGS INTO THE CAPAC. .. its just that simple... you will have to let the app. run for at least 24-36 hrs. to get cool enough and stabilize. after that we had to readjust the temp settings a little bit no bigee enjoy!!!!!
Took lower back cover off. Looked and observed for a few minutes to identify parts and removal. Five minutes later the job was complete. Older stainless steel unit now runs like new. Saved a lot of money... DIY
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120 questions answered by our experts.
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Ernie
July 31, 2017
Cooling system in unit does not work for either dept.We where out of town when this happened temp in fridge 100 plus lost all food.Cleaned every thing up.Un pluged fridge after afew hours turned back on lights worked and fan was running but temp. Never changed.
For model number KFCS22EVMS00
Hi Ernie,
Thank you for your question. It seems like you might need to replace the capacitor in your refrigerator, part number: PS11757023.
I hope that helps!
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Barb
August 14, 2017
The freezer is not cool enough and the fridge is freezing the food. Is this the relay switch or the 3 in one switch? Please help and what parts number is it. Thank you
For model number wrt1l1zyw01
Hello Barb, thank you for contacting us. That is the capacitor for the compressor. That could cause the freezer and fridge to get too warm. As well it could be the start relay PS11753018. It could also be the thermostat PS11756547 which could cause the fridge to be too cold. The capacitor and the start relay on the compressor can both be tested with a multi-meter. Hope this helps!
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Steve
September 21, 2017
Replaced fan in freezer twice since last fix (1 month) have water build up in fridge from freezer, could the heating element be getting to hot or staying on too long? Slight burning smell from inside fridge.
For model number MTF2142MEB00
Hi Steve,
Thank you for your question. That could be it. I would suggest checking your defrost heater and also the thermostats as well. You can check both of those parts with a multimeter. Good luck with your repair.
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Maria
August 28, 2017
Hi, my freezer is ok, but the refrigerator is not cold enough...it shows temperature of 60%... what do you think it is? Thank you for for help.
For model number WRT351SFYM00
Hi Maria,
Thank you for the question. The first thing to check is the fan in the back of the freezer. It is good to make sure this fan is still running so it is blowing the cool air to the fresh food side of the appliance from the freezer. Also make sure the fan blades are clean and the coils on the back of the appliance are clean. They can have dust build up over time so it is a good idea to give them a good vacuuming.
We also suggest the gasket around the door is properly sealing and not letting in any warm air.
If all these areas seem ok then you may need to replace the Thermostat.
Hope this helps!
My freezer gets so warm that it melts the ice in the dispenser and leaks out onto the floor. The defrost terminator has been replaced. The freezer gets back to freezing well but fluctuates in temperature from -5 to 40 degrees at different times throughout the day. The refrigerator side fluctuates, but stays a lot closer to the setting; maybe up by 5 degrees but never colder. Should i replace the capacitor or, is there a control board that is going bad, etc.? what's the best option?
For model number GSF26C4EXB02
Hi Mike,
Thank you for your question. It could be your run capacitor. I would actually suggest testing both your run capacitor, your freezer thermistor, and your defrost thermostat first. Those are the more likely parts to be the problem. You can test all three of those with a multi meter to be sure they are working correctly. If they are, then you might have to look into your board being the issue. I hope that helps. Good luck with your repair.
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Pat
March 1, 2018
How to check start capacitor
Hi Pat, Thank you for your inquiry. You can check the capacitor with a multimeter to see if it has continuity. Set the meter to read in the high ohms range, somewhere above 10k and 1m ohms. Touch the meter leads to the corresponding leads on the capacitor, red to positive and black to negative. The meter should start at zero and then moving slowly toward infinity. Hope this helps!
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Roberto
January 27, 2018
How to determine if the capacitor is bad or the combination start relay. The refrig and freezer compartments are warm after a power outage lasting about 5 hours.
For model number GD5NHAXMB00
Hi Roberto,
Thank you for your question. To verify which part is causing the issue, you will to use a multimeter to check the continuity. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!
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Michael
April 4, 2018
In the past 2 weeks the refrigerator has been acting up. It will randomly turn off for a long period of time and will only turn back on if we un plug the machine from the electrical socket and plug it back in. It has done this sporadically in the past year and we did not think much of it, but now it seems to be doing this multiple times during the week. What would you suggest to fix/replace? Thanks!
For model number ER8AHMXRQ01
Hi Michael,
Thank you for your question. There are a few parts that I could suggest checking first. You should test your run capacitor and your start relay that are both on your compressor. You may also have to check your thermostats as well. I hope that helps. Good luck with your repair.
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Amanda
March 26, 2018
My refrigerator stopped cooling but the freezer is perfect. Now I constantly hear a loud buzzing noise. What could it be?
For model number mfw2055yew02
Hi Amanda, Thank you for the question. I suggest checking the fan at the back of the freezer to make sure it is running and circulating the cold air to the Fridge. Hope this helps!
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Margie
March 18, 2018
The refrigerator is fine. The freezer will thaw and then freezes. I do not hear anything clicking. Would it be the capacitor?
For model number 106.56872600
Hello Margie,
Thanks for your question. The capacitor could certainly cause this issue, as well as the bi-metal defrost thermostat and the start relay. You may want to test these parts for continuity with a multimeter and replace any if they do not have continuity.
I hope this helps.
