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Thermistor

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5 Reviews
$ 40.86   In Stock

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PartSelect Number PS11741828
Manufacturer Part Number WP35001191
Manufactured by Whirlpool
Product Description

Thermistor Specifications

This part controls the temperature of the inside of the dryer drum and prevents the dryer from overheating.

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Troubleshooting
This part fixes the following symptoms:
No heat or not enough heat | Will Not Start | Shuts off too soon
This part works with the following products:
Dryer.
This part works with the following products:
Samsung, Amana, Maytag, Inglis.
Part# WP35001191 replaces these:
AP6008688, 35001191, DC32-00007A
Questions and Answers

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3 questions answered by our experts.
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    Greg
    February 22, 2018
    All lights come on but will not start
    For model number NED7200TW10
    Hi Greg, Thank you for your question. If the appliance will not start, there are some parts that you will need to check to see which one is causing the issue. You will need to check the thermistor, the thermostat, the electronic control board, the thermal fuse with bracket, the drive belt and the door switch. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

    3 people found this helpful.

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    Erik
    February 24, 2018
    The power is on but when I push the selector button there is no click and the dryer does not turn on. Can you help?
    For model number NED7200TW
    Hello Erik, Thanks for your question. A lack of clicking usually means you have a problem with your door switch. You can test it with a multimeter to be sure - replace it if it shows no continuity. I hope this helps.

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    Scott
    December 21, 2019
    Electric Maytag neptune dryer. All lights come on. When i push start i hear a click internally but the machine does not start
    For model number MDE9700AYW
    Hello Scott and thanks for writing. It certainly sounds like a faulty thermistor PS11741828 and /or thermostat PS11741821you should check for signs of damage, and replace it if needed. It is recommended to replace both parts at the same time. We hope this helps. Please contact us anytime.

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      Customer Repair Stories
       Average Repair Rating: 2.7 / 5.0, 5 reviews. What's this?
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        Sorry, we couldn't find any existing installation instruction that matched.
        Dryer did not turn when power was on.
        Callled the service company to diagnose the problem. Watched him take machine apart. He found the problem. Told me the parts that I needed. Didnt know what they were. Went to partselect.com looked my model up and found parts and ordered. Followed same steps as repair guy: Two screws in back of machine then slide top off. Six screws in front to remove front door ( 4 screws on top 2 on bottom) Changed the thermostat and thermistor. Saved 320 dollars :)
        • JAMIE from VALLEY STREAM, NY
        • Difficulty Level:
          Really Easy
        • Total Repair Time:
          15 - 30 mins
        • Tools:
          Screw drivers
        • Parts Used:
          WP35001191, WP35001087
        48 of 56 people found this instruction helpful.
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        wet clothes in sensor dry mode(Samsung DV218)
        top and the front had to be removed to get to the fan... the thermistor that sits in the exaust fan went bad... the heat would come on for a few minutes then turn off completely not getting to clothes dry.....
        • Vincent from Lusby, MD
        • Difficulty Level:
          Easy
        • Total Repair Time:
          1- 2 hours
        • Tools:
          Screw drivers, Socket set
        • Parts Used:
          WP35001191
        32 of 46 people found this instruction helpful.
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        Dryer not heating
        Had to pull the top off and the front of dryer with a few phillips screws and was able to get to the thermistor and I also replaced the heating coil because it was bad.The cause of the problem was because of a clogged up vent. It was a easy replacement.
        • Michael from Parrish, FL
        • Difficulty Level:
          Really Easy
        • Total Repair Time:
          30 - 60 mins
        • Tools:
          Screw drivers
        • Parts Used:
          WP35001191
        19 of 32 people found this instruction helpful.
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        Lint accumulation caused wires to melt
        The dryer was packed with lint and burnt lint. It was so bad I had to disassemble the entire dryer to fully vacuum it out. Thermostat and thermistor were fairly straight forward. The large wiring harness was difficult. Had to remove the top, control panel, front drum support, blower fan and housing, and finally the rear drum support. I left the old harness on the dryer, and then started around the motor as that was easy to reference in the new wiring harness. I proceeded to remove the old harness, and place the new harness in the retaining clips one clip at a time first moving towards the burner, and then going up the rear of the dryer and finally into the computer board. I had placed groups of screws in very small zip lock bags and labeled them as I took the dryer apart. This helped to remind me where all the screws went when I reassembled. Remember to NOT touch the ignitor with your fingers. Something about the oils on your fingers I was told. Reassemble in reverse order. Rear drum support, motor, gas valve (I had to remove all to clean),Turned the gas on after I reinstalled the gas valve to check for leaks, Drum and belt, attach belt, front drum support, lint trap, front panel/door, and finally the top. Then vent & plug it in and turn it on. Good luck.
        • John from Los Osos, CA
        • Difficulty Level:
          Very Difficult
        • Total Repair Time:
          More than 2 hours
        • Tools:
          Nutdriver, Wrench (Adjustable)
        13 of 17 people found this instruction helpful.
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        Heat for 1 minute then no heat
        In my case, it was the solenoids. Take off the top be removing two screws on back, then slide the top back and off. Then remove little screws on top that hold the plastic bar with the electronic controls. This very easily will pop up, don’t unplug it, just lay it aside on top of machine. Under this you can see the white metal piece that contains the door. This whole piece comes off with the door in place. Look for four screws across the top, remove em. Then open the door, there are two facing out about 10 inches apart. Remove em. Now slide whole door out (sort of a hinge on the bottom) from the top. After it pops out from the tops, lean it out about 1 foot then pull up hard. It comes off at the bottom. Gently unplug the door, you will see the wire to unplug. I used a small screwdriver to gently pry the plug apart to get it started. After the front panel is removed, you can see the gas valve lower right. On top of the gas valve which is about 5 inches by 5 inches, you will two black cylinders on top of it. Cylinders that are 1.5 inches tall and about 1 inch wide. These are your solenoids. These create an electromagnetic field that opens the gas valve. There is a silver colored piece of metal on top of them holding them in place with two screws on top. Take this cover off the two black solenoids (Black cylinders). Then remove the cylinders after gently unplugging them. Do not just pull on the wires. Use an ohm meter to test the old ones after you slide them up and off what looks like a silver post. There are two metal tabs on one where the plug plugs onto it. Set your ohm meter for 1000 and touch the two metal tabs. Your meter should say there IS a circuit. If your meter says there is no circuit your solenoid is bad. The other solenoid has threee tabs. Hold your solenoid with the metal plugs down and the cylinder is standing upright. Have the three prongs facing you. The prong on the left as you face the solenoid it is your common. Touch this prong and then with the other wire touch the middle prong. You need to see a circuit that is closed, or connected. If there is no circuit your solenoid is bad. Now touch your two testing wires on the two outside prongs. You still need to see a circuit. If no circuit you have bad solenoid. Replace em. The solenoids die slowly over years. Your dryer will start to take longer to dry. This is sign of dying solenoids. To the left of the gas valve you can see the sensors that determine if the air coming out of the dryer is damp or dry. Replace them at the same time. Where you are the burner, on the left of the 5 inch wide tube it is in you will see a sensor, rectangle shape 2 inch by 1 inch. This determines if the lighter is glowing. Replace it at this same time. On top of the burner tube, top right, hard to reach, there is another sensor that shuts it all down if it is over heating. There are two wires plugged into it. Use a MAGNETIC and very short philips head to remove it. Slowly, don’t drop the screws. Pull the whole sensor out while plugged in, then unplug it using a screw driver to help get it started unplugging. When the new sensor goes in, screw it on place first. Do not try to screw the new one in with wires on it. It is not easy, but you can do it. Use a small flash light etc to help see. Once screwed on, plug in your wires. It does not matter which wire goes on which end. So after you replace all your sensors (4 total) and you replaced those two round black solenoids, you can put it all back together.

        Do not buy cheap piece of sh-t parts. The cheap ones are made in China with short cuts, low quality metal and ceramics. Cheap. Use authentic Maytag parts, each sensor should be like $30. I replaced all of mine for $180. I now have a brand new unit as far as the electronics are concerned, good for another 10 years.
        2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
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          Customer Reviews
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              Model Cross Reference
              This part works with the following models:
              PartSelect Number: PS11741828
              Manufacturer Part Number: WP35001191
              Brand
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