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11723153-1-S-Whirlpool-W10820036-Lid Switch
11723153-1-S-Whirlpool-W10820036-Lid Switch https://www.partselect.com/Schematics/Maytag/37306.gif

Lid Switch

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$19.19
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Get this part fast. Average delivery time via standard shipping: 1.8 days.

PartSelect Number PS11723153
Manufacturer Part Number W10820036
Manufactured by Whirlpool

This 3 prong lid switch is used for washing machines that do not have a tub light.

This part works with the following brands: Kenmore, Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Roper, Estate, International, Jenn-Air.

This part works with the following products: Washer, Dryer, Washer Dryer Combo, Range.

This part fixes the following symptoms:

  • Will Not Start.
  • Will not drain.
  • Will not shut off.
  • Will not agitate.
  • Pumps but will not spin.
  • Timer will not advance.

Videos For installing this part.

Questions & Answers

Ask our experts a question on this part and we'll respond as soon as we can.

Most Helpful

Question:

Fuse in washer blows every time lid is opened. Washer works fine after fuse is replaced until lid is opened again. Which part(s) would you recommend?

Tami for model number LAT8434AAE
Answer:

Hi Tami, Thank you for your inquiry. It is not the fuse that is causing the issue. The fuse is connected to the lid switch which, in turn, tells the washer whether the lid is open or closed. The switch is designed to intentionally blow the fuse if it is not working properly so that the washer won't run with the lid open. One of the contacts in the switch may be stuck or malfunctioning.It is the lid switch. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

1 person found this helpful.
Question:

Washing machine does not respond to control as normal. When you pull the control to start filling and setting time/cycle, nothing happens. No water starts flowing to fill cylinder, etc. Circuit breaker is fine, and dryer works. Lid switch appears to be fine, but hard to verify when machine isn't responding. Thanks in advance for your help.

Kenneth for model number LA5591XPW4
Answer:

Hi Kenneth, Thank you for your inquiry. I would suggest testing your water inlet valve with a multi-meter to see if that part is malfunctioning. I hope this helps. Good luck with your repair.

Most Recent

Question:

My washer will fill but doesn't agitate spin or drain. I have checked the switch assembly in the control panel with ohm meter and have continuity in fuse, lid check switch. The lid switch makes a clicking sound and seems to start and stop timer. The timer ticks though out cycle and then stops at end of cycle with no action. The motor never engages or spins or hums or anything. What do you think is wrong and where should i start troubleshooting?

John for model number LAT9304AAE
Answer:

Hi John, Thank you for your inquiry. Your appliance does have another lid switch and a lid check switch. I would suggest checking both of those parts as well. It seems like it is likely a lid switch issue although if all of those parts check out alright, it may be your timer that is the issue. Good luck with your repair.

Related Parts: Lid Check Switch, Lid Switch Assembly
Question:

I'm not sure what is the problem: The machine turns on, and will do what it is set to do, but will not move to the next job. It sat with the water in it until i moved it to drain, then sat until i moved the dial to spin, then spun until i forced it to fill...then spun again until i moved it a little further. the site says that it is the door switch, but i am not certain. can you help?

Wendy for model number A310
Answer:

Hi Wendy, Thank you for your question. I would suggest testing your door switch but also testing the timer of your appliance. You should be able to test both parts with a multi-meter. Good luck with your repair.

Installation Instructions Provided by PartSelect customers like you.

Average Repair Rating: 3.9 / 5.0, 18 reviews What's this?
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1-15 of 18
 

115 of 146 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Customer: Peter from Westbury, NY

Washer would not start

To see if the lid switch was the problem I first jumped it out and tried to start the washer. That was the problem. I removed the main controll so I could get to the lid switch. I made the mistake of removing the screws all the way out and the metal clip fell into the body of the washer, no problem since I was changing the drive beld anyway. I realized that you do not remove the screws all the way out, you just have to loosen them and then slide out the lid switch & then replace it.

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34 of 52 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: Less than 15 mins
Tools: Screw drivers
Customer: Dale S from Walnut Ridge, AR

The washer wouldn't start after the tub filled with water.

Unpluged the washer and removed the top cover. Removed the screws holding the switches and unplug the wires. The process was very easy and the washer worked like a new one.

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26 of 37 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Lid Switch
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 1- 2 hours
Tools: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Customer: Kenneth from Wilmington, IL

Lid closes, switch wouldn't turn on machine.

Used toothpick for a year to push switch acctuator far enough to engage switch. Broke my foot and found time to order part thru PartSelect. Went from cast to boot and received part 2 days after ordered. Had difficulty with foot and getting to switch. Went back into PartSelect and figured out how to dis-assemmble panels thru the diagrams. Time on my job doesn't, just that their service and expertise that is available to everyone is there to use. Broken bones or not, I will always get my parts and advice from PartSelect. Thanks to PartSelect.

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20 of 24 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Lid Switch
Level of Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Screw drivers
Customer: Glen from Plano, TX

Washer would fill up, wash, then stop

I deduced the lid switch was the problem.

I removed the two screws holding the control panel on. Pulled the control panel back.
Disconnected the ground wire of the lid switch.
removed the two top clamps that hold the panel to the top of the machine.
Pulled back the casing (outside of the washer) and placed it on it's side on the floor. Here I could reach the switch. Removed old, installed new and reversed the process.

The part that gave me the biggest problem was setting the casing back on to the frame. You have to slide the front part in at the bottome, then lean back the rest of it.

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15 of 18 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Lid Switch
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: Less than 15 mins
Tools: Screw drivers, Wrench set
Customer: Xiaobin from Cordova, TN

One day, I found my dryer continued running after I opened the door. And next day, it stopped working at all. I thought it was time to buy a new one, since my dryer had been used for more than 15 years. But I was curious to know what went wrong, and recalled my friend told me he repaired the door

My daughter found the video on youtube, which showed step by step repairing procedures. I just followed it and fixed my dryer in 15 min.

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13 of 17 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Lid Switch
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Pliers, Screw drivers
Customer: Elyse from Chicago, IL

The dryer stopped working completely.

I looked up the procedure to remove the switch in a repair book, removed the broken switch. Then I reconnected the wire leads, put the part in and closed everything up. The part arrived so quickly and there were even instructions with the part which made the repair go so easily.

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13 of 19 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Lid Switch
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: Less than 15 mins
Tools: Screw drivers
Customer: Mandie from Lewisville, NC

Washer will agitate, but won't spin

I ordered the switch, which is what most people told me the problem was. I didn't have a multimeter, so I couldn't test the current one.

I removed the two screws from above the lid switch, removed the control panel screws on either side, and used a flat screwdriver to pry the top off by popping the clips.

The switch was easy to reach, and I compared the old and new switch after removing the paddle assembly. The new switch has three prongs, whereas my old one had two, so I put the gray wire terminal onto the bottom prong. I set everything down, plugged it in, and tested it, but still no spin cycle.

After some further research, I realized the problem was with the spin solenoid under the washer, or the red wire that leaves the lid switch and goes to the spin solenoid, also called a wig-wag solenoid. (This is a belt driven model, not direct drive.) It's not too common that the solenoids fail, but it is rather common that the wires break inside the insulation on this model.

Moral of the story is always ohm through the switches and wires before ordering replacement parts. (Remember, never ohm through a live circuit.)

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8 of 12 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Lid Switch
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Screw drivers
Customer: Eric from West Chester, PA

Washer stopped working mid cycle restarts after resetting lid

Repair went well, but my switch only had one contact on the non common end. The new switch had two contacts. One is for operation with lid open and one for lid closed. Make sure to connect to the lid closed contact and the common on the other end and leave the lid open contact unused.

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7 of 12 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Screw drivers
Customer: Randall from Johnstown, PA

The dryer door was broken down, dryer would not come one

I pried up the lid, and removed two screws from the lint trap door.
Removed to screws that held top front of dryer. One on each side near top.

Cables replaced easily, popped plastic retainer from door, inserted cable and connect to spring.

Removed two screws that held the door switc on. Replaced with new switch and pushed wire clips onto new switch.

Things went back together just as they came off.

When I pulled the dryer front away, the tumbler (tub?) pulls out and drops down an inch or so. When putthing it back together , I had to life the tub up to fit into front again.

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7 of 12 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Lid Switch
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Screw drivers
Customer: Gay from Apple Valley, CA

Drum would not spin to drain water

Removed two screws and lifted the control console then tilted forward the shell. Removed two screws holding the latch cover and assembly then disconnected two wires. I played with the assembly until I discoved the element was toast. Ordered the part but when I got it I was confused because it had three prongs (two on one side and one on the other) when the burnt one had only one and one and I only had 2 disconnect wires. I thought I had gotten the wrong part but figured it out. Actually putting the assembly together was the easy part, trying to get the outer shell back together was a little tough. Between taking it a part, figuring out what was wrong and ordering and receiving the part was about three weeks. So when putting it all together took awhile but I did it and it works great.

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5 of 8 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Pliers, Screw drivers
Customer: Ron from The Woodlands, TX

Short in door lid switch

Unplug from electrical outlet.Unscrewed control panel and laid it open. The switch is in 2 parts. Removed wires and unscrewed each switch. Put wires back on and tightened switch back to mounting plate. No brainer. Tried washer and worked perfectly. Two tips: Check fuse on plate to make sure it isn't burned out before ordering any parts. Secondly when installing if you have older model washer there is a nib that sticks up on mounting plate that keeps the switch from installing correctly. Cut this nib off with a wire cutter and then install. The directions don't mention that.

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4 of 6 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Lid Switch
Level of Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Customer: james from york, PA

Dryer would not run

There are two screws that hold the switch in place. And two wires connected to the switch. The most difficult part of replacement is to place the new switch and hold it in place to reinstall the mounting screws. The space to work in is limited unless you remove the front panel from the dryer, which I opted not to do.

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2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Lid Switch
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Screw drivers
Customer: Victoria from Roslyn Heights, NY

Dryer would not start.

My dryer is 35 years old and thought this was it, but I googled the question and found out it was the door switch. Orderd the part and received it very fast and didn't want to wait for my husband to come home so I went on you tube and found a video how to open dryer and change switch. I did it in about 30 min. and yes it is now perfect again. No problems. I just unscrewed the old switch and put the new one in. Maybe I'll get another 35 years out of this machine. :o) Thanks for making it so easy.

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1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Lid Switch
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Screw drivers
Customer: Daniel from TRENTON, NJ

Washer continued to spin when you raised the lid not shutting off

Your web site is amazing Ive enjoyed watching your videos,this is a really great way to see what it takes to repair your washer very informative. Steve was a good teacher for me I just followed along as he explained each step and my washer came apart just like he said. I removed the two front console screws and pulled slightly forward and lifted console up and tilted it back where it was out of the way. next I was able to lift cabinet up from the back and remove it from the frame and lay cabinet on the floor on top of a rug I had to protect the finish on cabinet . Now I had access to the lid switch and simply removed the two screws in the cabinet and the old switch. I connected the two wire connections to the new switch (no)normally open connection, used same actuator the instructions say to do this because the one that comes with the new switch won't fit so use the old one. on my washer there's a cover that fits under this switch and It took me a little longer to get the screws to line up so they fit through the switch and into the cover but It worked fine. Now all I had to do was reinstall the cabinet just like Steve did on the video my only problem with this was seeing where the tabs in the frame were located so that the slots in the cabinet would fit over top of frame tabs I used a flash light in one hand and lowered the cabinet down I held the light on the frame tabs and the slots in cabinet fit right in then lowered cabinet to the rear frame tabs where i just had to push slightly on the sides of cabinet and it fit right in.Next i pushed the back panel in place and on the top of washer just like in video reinstalled both spring clip clamps and the console and reinstalled the two screws. I plugged in the washer put drain hose back in drain pushed washer back in place turned it on working great now ! Thank You so much for your help Dan.

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3 of 7 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Lid Switch
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: Less than 15 mins
Tools: Screw drivers
Customer: James from Richmond, VA

Water wouldn't run out of washer

Two screws holding top, unhook wire conector. remove cabinet,replace switch. Reassemble.

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1-15 of 18

Model Cross Reference

This part works with the following models:

PartSelect Number: PS11723153
Manufacturer Part Number: W10820036
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