ZSGW420DME General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Removed old bin, unpackaged new bin inserted new bin on to detects on the refridgerator door.

Temp. Sensor was under an egg shaped cover on the left side wall in the refrigerator. Remove the cover, cut the two wires to the old sensor and remove it. Connect the new sensor to the two wires using butt connectors. Replace cover and done.

Just like installation video said. One error I did not read first note that check to see if line was frozen, which it was. Nothing wrong with valve, but changed it anyways. Works great now. Thank for all the help. You all are great.

I reviewed several You Tube repair videos. Not all of them were correct even though my model and brand were specifically mentioned in the videos. Use You Tube with a grain of salt. After sifting through the you tubes, I distilled the information by looking for consistencies. The most inconsistent information was on how to remove the plastic bezels. Once that was figured out, the repair was very easy. Upon removal, I inspected the solenoid. It was very rusted and was no longer capable of pulling the mechanism closed after it had (successfully) opened the flap. The new solenoid fixed the problem in a flash.

Very easy, unscrew and re-screw new filter in..

I can't tell you how luck I feel after finding your website I ordered the temperature sensor after watching one of your videos on-line and the repair went just as on the video. I pulled the "bad" sensor out, and replaced it with the new one. Keep in mind that this is the first time I ever touch an appliance, needless to say I'm feeling pretty good about that! All in all it took me about 20 minutes to complete my repair and it now has been about 4 days and the refrigerator is working like new again!

I found out that the tabs that hold the ext. had broken or worn off. I decided to pull the front panel off and remove the filler spout assy. I just glued the new funnel ext. onto the funnel, and caulker the panel,and hopefully I will never need to replace it again. It will be a little more difficult to get it off now. Also, the instructions were so small I had to read it with a magnifying glass.

Removed rear cover at the bottom. Turn off water supply. Disconnect dual water inlet control and replicated it with the new one. reinstalled rear cover and turned the water supply. back on. That's it.h

The parts purchased worked perfectly and your write-ups explained what the typical problems are with this water leak that was occurring with our GE refrigerator at the nylon water line for chilled water service. Your description highlighted exactly what the problem was and the parts that I needed to make the repairs. This saved me a plumbing service call. All I had to do was cut off the nylon hose beyond the cracked area, apply the water nylon tube union joining the two hose ends and tighten the coupling at the unit.

Thanks again,

Jim Macdonald

I have a GE Profile French door refrig. It's only about 4 yrs old and the defroster stopped working. I read the other repair stories and was able to narrow it down to either the temp sensor, defrost timer, or main board. The refrig section was up to about 47 degrees and freezer was around 25. I could tell it was trying to cool but couldn't. So I tried the temp sensor first. I cut and spliced the new sensor on the outlet of the Evap. Coil and it took about 15 mins. Turned refrig back on and waited. The coil started to ice over after about 5 hrs I left the back panel off so I could see if and when then heater kicked on. After about 8 hrs I looked in and saw a faint glow and water trickling down and running out the drain. Turned out the sensor was bad and wasn't telling the main board it needed to defrost. I would try the sensor if you are having the same issues before spending a lot of money on the main board, defrost heater and or timer.

It was amazing , i didn't know how to repair , i had. Insurance from choice home warranty but they say it is not covered , i was upset with them . But i get partselect .com . It is very easy, i tell my problem they tell what parts i need and also saw me video how to install it , i just did with a screw driver in 15 minutes . It was wonderful experience and a lot lot easy then what i thought. Thanks to partselect team and webside.

There were only 3parts listed to check omed out the defrost heater and thermostat ....thermistor checked bad ordered replacement took less than 2 minutes to replace after I defrosted it again runs fine

Adding a small amount of water to the filter would resolve the problem for a week or two. So, I thought this was an issue with the filter and decided to try the bypass cap to help zero in on the problem. The bypass cap had no instructions concerning the need for O ring so it was trial and error. The O ring was not needed. After installation of the bypass cap, no water flow resulted and I had to replace the filter. Intermittent problem continues.

What an awesome site! After putting in my model number and finding the problem I was having, I simply picked the 2 parts that were most likely to solve the problem. I bought a defrost thermostat, and defrost heater. To a high certainty, they would solve my problem. They didn't however! I ended up having to buy a temperature sensor on another order a few weeks later when the problem resurfaced! My own fault. I should have bought it the first time. As others have written: the longest part of the job is defrosting the ice from the coil. One thing I did that I didn't see suggested: plug the drain hole below the coil. I put a couple towels in the bottom of the freezer and ran the hair dryer. Didn't take long. I read that the amount of water created will overflow the pan under the refrigerator, so I plugged the drain hole. Once you clean that mess up, the repair is pretty straight forward. Great site. Even through I had to make two separate purchases, I still saved a lot of money. Thanks!