ZBD3900C02SS General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

The symptom was that none of the dishwashers light came on – it was totally dead
With this repair the important thing was making sure I was replacing the right part. I also tested parts in order to avoid disassembling more than I needed. I checked the following:
1. Circuit breaker
2. Electricity was getting to the connection box underneath the dishwasher. (Require removing panels between DW door and floor).
3. Next I disassembled the DW inner door and checked the switch. Power was getting to the switch. When depressed, power was go on both sides of switch.
4. I pulled out the electronic control assembly (ASM) and checked that power was getting to the ASM; it was. (Note: be careful about what you touch, there is 110 volts out in the open).
5. I pulled the ASM from the enclosing plastic box that surrounds it. I looked at the circuit board to trace where power went from the connector. Not surprisingly, it went through a fuse then to a transformer.
6. I checked the fuse two ways: I checked it hot: power was getting through the fuse. I also unplugged the power and checked the resistance. The fuse was good.
7. Set the Volt-Ohm meter back to 300 Volts AC range – do not risk putting 110 volts into the ohms setting.
8. 110 volts was getting to the primary side of the transformer. There was no voltage on the other side.
9. I unplugged the power and checked the resistance of the primary side of the transformer. It was “open” – meaning a wire is broken inside the transformer.
10. This confirms the problem in on the ASM board. If I knew the voltage on the secondary of the transformer and radio-shack had such a part I guess I could try unsoldering it and replacing it. But I didn’t know that and there were signs of water corrosion on the board so I replaced it.
11. PartsSelect made the look up easy. Delivery was fast. The DW now works again.

The Solenoid black plastic had melted around the solenoid shaft. I unplugged the solenoid, removed 2 screws,then one C clip and pulled the the unit out. The new solenoid is difficult to install all together as the shaft it goes on holds it all together when both springs are installed - - so I installed in one piece, with the 2 screws, except for the white plastic thing, the C clip that holds it on the shaft, and one of the two springs - - these three items went on separately. I wanted to thank the help your expert gave, but I couldn't figure how to do that.

Inserted wheels on socket and then into the dishwasher rack.

We knew roughly how we needed to put the cap on the rail, but our technique of simply forcing it in the end of the rail wasn't working. The trick is to bend the moveable part of the plastic cap inward while you're sliding it in, and it clicks right into place.

The location of the cap we were replacing was the upper back left, which made it a little tricky to reach back there and insert it, especially for a bigger guy like myself. We took the bottom rack out and my smaller wife was more easily able to lean in the dishwasher and reach back there to insert it.

Removed the old one from its slot and slid the new one into it.
No instructions needed.

Removed the lower rack and installed new wheels with clips

The newly purchased wheels have a little different design and could be installed in a matter of few seconds.

I just plugged in the model number and a screen came up that showed all the part numbers that made up the model. picked out the parts that we needed and ordered it and within 2 day we had the new basket that we needed for our dish washer.
the service and ease was better that going to the appliance store and picking up the basket.
I was very happy the the service.
Donald Brown

pretty easy, take off 7 screws from inside door

only hard part was getting arm to click into lever through the door. if you practice with the parts outside the door they lock together really well :)

REPLACE CONTROL BOARD - Turn off circuit breaker. Take out lower rack. Remove inside door panel (seven Phillips screws). Hold outside door panel (control board location) in place with bungee cord. Remove push lever (two screws) to facilitate removal of control board. Disconnect control board connectors (five, I think). Remove old control board (two screws and plastic clips). Install new control board (clips, connectors, and two screws). Re-install push lever (two screws). Re-install inside door panel (the main contol lever alignment is a little tricky), seven screws. Remove bungee cord. Put lower rack back in. Turn on circuit breaker. Test dishwasher. Worked perfectly, just like new. Normal amount of water in bottom. "Dry" cycle normal. "Clean" light comes on and stays on until door is opened i.e. normal operation. "Delay" feature also works normally. Dishwasher may last a few more years. Cost of control board: $120 inc. shipping.

Use screw driver for leveage, righty tighty, lefty loosie, easy as that, and thanks to Parts Select, ordered my part on Thursday by dinner time Friday had part, install no washing dishies by hand, Thanks guys

Brian Souza
Vacaville, CA

Very simple. By hand, I unscrewed the old spray arm and screwed in the new one. One brief hangup. The old spray arm was very hard to unscrew. Rather than seeming to force it, I called the PartsSelect 800 number and got advice. The tech reassured me that all I had to to was unscrew it and put in new one. So I applied more force and old one came out. A breeze.

First, I drained the water from inside the washer and removed it from under the sink. I wasn't sure if I had a clog in the drain line, so I dissasembled the drain under the sink and cleaned that as well. While cleaning under the sink my wife found her $4000 dollar ruby that fell out of her mothers ring a couple weeks earlier. It must have dripped out of the trap while I had water draining everywhere. Put drain back together and moved on to the dishwasher repair. Parts were easy to install after laying the dishwasher down on its front to access the bottom back side. Hooked everything back up and slid it back under the countertop and away it went. Had one small leak after running (water in line wasn't tight enough). A twist with a pair of pliers and that was resolved.
Fast shipping by the way! I paid a little more for the exit washer than I wanted to, but with shipping only from one source and delivery of parts at the same time made downtime as little as possible. I'm sure I saved $100 dollars or so by using this website for parts and tech info. And recovered a precious stone to boot.

Removed dishwasher, took off motor, and ordered part. It was delivered in a timely fashion (3 days). Determined which directions to follow. Used screwdriver to hook up motor. Put dishwasher back into cabinet area, made sure there were no leaks before fastening the dishwasher in place. Took about 1/2 hour to complete process. Very satisfied.

Went to repair parts on troubleshooting and found check valve assembly to be most common problem. Went to parts diagram to locate assembly and found it somewhat confusing as to exact location. Ordered part(s) on percentage as the problem. Received part next day (great)! Pulled dishwasher out and found I did NOT need to do so to replace check valve which is replaced without having to remove dishwasher. The gasket replacement was not necessary as it seals sump area from bottom of dishwasher and not the valve as it appears on the parts diagram. It took about 2 minutes to replace valve itself and it was the cause of the problem.