YMMV4205FW5 Maytag Microwave - Instructions

I used the microwave model number to order a replacement turntable. We received the item and it did not fit. Not even close. I will have to send it back. Very disappointed

I first unplugged the microwave. I then unscrewed the 2 screws from the top grill. I had to be careful because the grill was cracked close to each screw. It was a little tricky to remove the grill. Had to tilt it down as I removed it, and make sure the microwave door was opened as wide as possible. Filters were placed as the old ones, with the metal part up I believe. A little tricky to get one of the filters to fit. Grill was replaced with care so as not to further Crack it. Kind of maneuvered grill back in place, getting right side in place first. I noticed there were several tabs on the grill that needed to be placed inside of the microwave body while reinstalling the grill. Once the grill was in place, the 2 screws were put in to hold the grill in place.

Remove “over the stove” unit. Remove unit shell case. Unscrew and disconnect diode. Replace diode. Re-assemble. Put unit back in place.

Really easy for a 75-year old female; just spent more time reading the online manual than actually installing the light bulbs to find out where to access the light bulbs.

mounted bracket, case closed.

Removed panel and installed upper and lower switches. I did this because it did not do it all the time. When I removed the switches I used a ohms meter to check continuity but they all checked out at first then I started playing around with the buttons on each switch by pushing in on them and letting off and found one when you pushed in and out three or four times that one switch would jump back and forth by ohms meter that was the bad switch. If any one else has that problem the switch might show continuity when you first test but click the switch button a few times to see if you get a different reading. Microwave up running. Thanks Partselect.

Turn off power supply at breaker . Replace old bulb with new bulb .

We needed a phillips head screw driver to remove the single screw holding the light bulb cover in place.
Removing the old bulbs was a little work, because they had come loose from the sockets. We unplugged the microwave, so we could grip the sockets with a tool. I think my husband used a needle nose plier for this.
The new bulbs screwed in easily, and then we refastened the light bulb cover with the phillips head screw driver.

screwed in new bulb

Husband replaced the bulb

Repair unsuccessful because they sent the wrong part, even after I questioned their selection. It is amazing how a company as large as Whirlpool cannot clearly indicate to the people who work for them how to order the correct part. The fault lies not in the individual who is putting the order in but with the company who cannot take the time to make sure that person is successful in completing their job. Will never buy a product from this company again.
As far as the shipping is concerned. It took forever, just to find out that the part was incorrect.
Better luck next time. right?

Spouse just screwed in the new bulb and reinstalled the light cover plate with the two screws. Took under a minute. Works great.

On top front of the microwave are two Philip's head screws holding the rail on. Remove these screws and the rail snap out the old filter (noting the dark side down) then snapping the new filter in. Replace rail. 10 to 15 minute task.

Used a screwdriver only. The grill vent is not at all durable and stared to crack. The microwave is less than 2 years old.

Remove the two screws to the plastic vent strip at the top of the unit. That exposes a metal cover (upper right) held in place by two more screws. (Found that removing the screw holding the key panel in place and moving that out of the way made for more work room) Remove the metal cover. The HV diode (visible) on one end is secured to the chassis by a screw. The other end is fitted to the HV capacitor. So unscrew one end and pull the HV diode off the capacitor. The replacement fits on like the old one came off. Very simple repair. But it would be safe to short the capacitor terminals to the chassis first. Noticed that it appeared the sparking was caused by the HV diode's outer casing being worn by the asbestos covered wire next to it and laying against it. I made sure the two were not touching, before putting the covers back on. Also, the problem started with an occasional spark when the MW started. It quickly deteriorated to a full, non-stop electrical sparking. You can hear it, smell it, and see it through the top vent. You don't need to remove unit to work on it.