All you have to do is unscrew the clamps, remove the broken plastic pieces of tabs, fit the new grille into the slots on the bottom and put the two screws through the clamps at the top.
Part came in 24 hrs w/ no special "fast shipping requested" . Old door pried off fairly easily using a stiff but thin butter knife. Putting new door on was easy but only with 2 people: one person holding the handle side open and the other handling the new door. Fit the new door on the hinge side first and slowly push top and bottom edges inward until clicks are heard as the individual hooks engage the frame. When done, go back along each top and bottom edge to be sure all hooks are engaged and no gaps occur btwn door and frame. Trying to do it alone with no one holding the door open and steady would have been difficult.
Remove the two screws to the plastic vent strip at the top of the unit. That exposes a metal cover (upper right) held in place by two more screws. (Found that removing the screw holding the key panel in place and moving that out of the way made for more work room) Remove the metal cover. The HV diode (visible) on one end is secured to the chassis by a screw. The other end is fitted to the HV capacitor. So unscrew one end and pull the HV diode off the capacitor. The replacement fits on like the old one came off. Very simple repair. But it would be safe to short the capacitor terminals to the chassis first. Noticed that it appeared the sparking was caused by the HV diode's outer casing being worn by the asbestos covered wire next to it and laying against it. I made sure the two were not touching, before putting the covers back on. Also, the problem started with an occasional spark when the MW started. It quickly deteriorated to a full, non-stop electrical sparking. You can hear it, smell it, and see it through the top vent. You don't need to remove unit to work on it.
Wonderful service, the part arrived 3 days later and it took 10 minutes to re-install the vent. By just remove 2 screw to take out the old part and re-installed the new one.
Door handle: open door, remove screws holding door insert and insert putty into door insert to access door handle screws. Screw in new handle and snap door insert back with screws.
PartSelect website indicated replacing the high voltage power supply diode is the solution for "no heat" 99% of the time, but the diode was OK. There is more info at the website concerning the case of "loud buzzing and no heat" indicating the magnetron needs to be replaced. As an electrical engineer with knowledge of microwave components, this was also my best guess. However, getting to the magnetron is not the easiest job, but it's not impossible. You also have to be careful to bleed off any charge stored on the high voltage power supply capacitor. Luckily, I found my KitchenAid service manual tucked away inside the unit since I couldn't find it online.
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
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Top Left Corner Of The Door Face Cracked For No Reason . Checked On Part And Repair Cost From Local Apl. Rep. Locations $ 200.00 - $250.00
First remove three screws on the handel side of the door,then use a thin blade [putty knife or butter knife to seperate the plastic colored face from the door very gently . You must pry up to seperate the catches of the door panel from the door. Work your way back to hinge side of door. Remove the handel from the panel [2 screws] then remove the protective outter glass,push back on clips and lift glass out. Reverse the proceedure the door panel snaps back on to the door easily
