YKERI203PT0 KitchenAid Range - Instructions

Pulled the dial off, unscrew two screws. Pull the switch out from the back. Disconnect the wires from the old switch and connect to the new switch one by one. Set the new switch in place. Sctew the two screws in to hold the switch in place. Push on the dial.

Unplugged stove from electrical outlet. Pulled temperature control dial off by hand. Remove screws to top back stove panel with Phillips screwdriver. Removed top stove back panel. Unscrewed broken infinity switch from stove. Unclipped wiring harness to broken switch by prying loose with flat head screw driver. Reclipped wiring harness to new switch. Screwed replacement switch back onto stove. Reattached back panel with screws.

Ordered both parts using the excellent breakdown illustrations of the door. Received the parts along with video instructions on how to repair.

took the handle off, replaces the side trim piece and replaced the handle. Very simple!

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

Remove three screws, slid old trim piece off door. Slid new trim in place. Used ice pick to align screw holes and replaced screws. Total time about 15 minutes. Tip: used a bead of silicone sealer on the new trim strip to prevent moisture from causing new strip to rust.

Removed all terminals and block mounting screws. Repaired one burnt terminal and reassembled. Replacement part was an exact fit and reassembly whnet very well.

Repair of oven sensor easy to install; however, product did not resolve the problem. Returned new sensor and awaiting refund (2 weeks passed so far).

I watched the video you provide and it answered all my questions. You estimate repair at 10 minutes. My wife said I waz done in under 10 minutes Watch the video, it explained every step and all the little tricks to the snap connections.

1993 model oven, built in wall model, so didn't to remove oven for the normal rear access to replace the lamp socket. As someone else posted, replacement can be done from inside the oven -- BUT the socket removal was more complex than just 'twisting it out.' But below worked! (1) Turned off oven power at circuit breaker panel. To facilitate working in the oven compartment, removed oven door (2 screws on back of door), raised the over door almost closed, put 2 large nails through the hinge holes when they lined up. Lifted the door out (heavy ~20-25 lbs) and put aside. (2) Put work light inside oven. (3) unscrew glass socket lens and the bulb). (3) Using inspection mirror, studied the inside of the socket to determine that its lock tab type and locations -> were on left and right sides of the socket. These tabs needed to be bent in, but they were each held out by a small circumferential length of think metal, a tab about 3/16" x 3/8". These small tabs could be moved/positioned by just finger friction, with a little start with a screwdriver tip on their edge! I got an end positioned to put sharp screwdriver under that end, then pried it (bent it) inward a short distance. Enough to use needle-nosed pliers to pull it completely out - came fairly easily. Repeated on other side of socket. (4) Then, with pliers, bent each of the 4 locking tabs inward a short distance, Used sharp tool to get one socket edge lifted a small amount; then use mini-pry bar and screwdriver to gently pry around the socket in steps, working evenly around its edge. At about 3/8", it was free. Lifted it inward gently so as not to damage the insulation of the 2 wires attached to its rear. Noted the direction of the wire tabs was straight up (keep same orientation on new socket). (5) Needle-nosed pliers on each connector to gently work the connectors off their socket tabs. Note one tab is larger than the other. Keep the wires inside the oven compartment. Don't damage the insulation. (6) Pushed the wire connectors onto their respective new socket tabs. Aligned socket with the tabs upward, and inserted it, careful to nurse the wires back into the oven wall hole; press socket into the hole, pushing it in evenly and firmly until flush. (7) Pushed in the new type bulb that came with new Socket. Turned on power, and light came on. (8) screwed on new glass cover. (9) Lifted oven back onto the hinge prongs. (easier with two people to get the prongs aligned and into their door slots.) Worked door left and right to get it to lower down fully. Removed nails, lowered door, and put its 2 screws back on. (10) Poured a glass of wine.

Following your installation, the old part came out easily, with new part installing easily., oven heat is being regulated properly..with range pulled out for part replacement, got that area cleaned too

I watched the repair video on this site and another on YouTube before I started. The rear panel has a different shape and two additional screws on the bottom edge. The power clip was easy to manipulate.
This was an easy fix for a seventy year-old like me!

Removed drawer, after removing the 50# of junk in the drawer, Used screw driver to remove screw that holds glide to drawer and then place new part into place put screw into hole and tightened screw. Replaced drawer and told wife not to put 50# of junk back into the drawer.

Simply removed the bottom drawer, unscrew the old broken glide, and attach the new glide. Simple and no hassles.

Removed the ice brucket,
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.

Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.