YISR208DTAWW General Electric Washer - Instructions

R&R Leaking/Damaged Hose and replaced it with the new one. One thing to be aware of is that after removing screws from the discharge hose upon removing the damaged one there was some water that did not expel from the unit so there was about a cup of water that came out. After removing the leaking hose you will need to remove the retaining plastic piece so that it can be placed on the replacement hose. Or if you ordered one put it on the hose so that it can retain the end of the hose in the washer. The anti-siphon clip is located about half way up the back of the washer it simply clips in place.

I watched the video from the web site and the one that came with my invoice. This made it very easy to fix.I got the tools that I needed and went to town on the repair.

Unplug machine, verified the hot water line to the washer was clear. Used screwdriver to remove top panel from washer. Removed faulty (rusted) temperature switch from seating. Then removed each of the wires from the old switch with needlenose pliers and placed them on the proper area of the new switch. Placed the switch back on the panel and screwed the cover back on. Then plugged the unit back in an tested the hot, cold and warm settings. Easy fix.

1.Pulled the agitator out. Unscrewed the top nut, which was a little tricky to break loose since it had been in place for over 10 years. Pulled out the entire washing cylinder to unscrew and replace the hub. Not bad but you need to take out the inner tub and that requires doing a little extra unscrewing and prying.

I had help taking off the old parts,coupling was not easy. But I installed the new parts by my self and I'm 74 years had trouble getting the Agitator Coupling back on, But the straps were easy, Any way I'm back to washing again thanks a bunch

I removed agitator by pulling it up until it unsnaped.

I removed the old agitator coupling by removing the bolt and pulling up while twisting it.

The new coupling looks different than the old part but fits the same.

I pressed the new coupler on to the agitator shaft, reinstalled bolt and pressed agitator on the agitator coupler until it snaped into place.

Washer runs like new!

Our GE washer stopped agitating. We bought us a Whirlpool Cabrio washer with auto-sensing and an impeller instead of an agitator. My wife couldn't get used to washing clothes with so little water. We found out about PartSelect.com and ordered the part they indicated would probably fix our GE washer ($5.86) - the Agitator Coupling Kit. Ordered it on Friday, received it by Fed Ex the following Tuesday. It was an easy installation. Our GE is working fine. Took the Whirlpool back to the store, got our $637.00 back.I plan to use PartSelect.com again,if I need to. We don't like the new type washers as well as our 7-1/2 year old GE.

I removed the front panel, disconect the Level Pressure Switch and conect the new one, the only thing that took me most of the tima was calibrate the instrument.
whene you disconct the hose that goes in th side of the L P S. to replace it for the new one you have to be care full. FIrst install the new part, then before you conect the hose let the machine fill up with water up to the firt level ( small load), to do this,calculate the water amount, then blow the hose to leave the hose free off air to create, a vacume then install it on the original position.

It was really easy. I removed the broken part of the knob from the metal center knob assembly. Cleaned out the "teeth" of the inner knob assembly to remove any debris from the plastic part that broke. I made sure that the metal center knob assembly was pulled out all the way (using the pliers). I inserted the new knob making sure that the knob lined up with the arrow on the dial. Then turned it slightly to ensure that the "teeth" fit together properly. While holding the handle in place, I used the pliers to slide the clip into the slot to keep the knob in place. Once it clicked into place... I was DONE!

First I located the trouble. I noticed that it was water leaking and figured it had to be a hose. I took the front panel off of the washer and after noticing that the drain hose had a slight hole in it, realized that I could fix it and save myself a repair call. I undid the two hose clamps and removed the hose. I went to a local repair shop that could not guarantee the right part. I went online and found Parts Select.com. I entered minimal information and the picture of the item that I was looking for, the Drain Inlet Hose, was staring at me! Within 3 business days and less than 20 dollars spent, I repaired my washing machine. The total time spent to repair after I received the hose took about 10 minutes. I will definitely use parts select .com and recommend to all my friends and family. Thank you.

It tooke some time to figure out where the water was leaking. It was from a small hole at the lateral side of the upper third of the drain inlet tube. Removing the hose was easy. Attaching it to the tub with a hose clamp was easy, but attaching the lower end to the pump motor was quite difficult because the spring clamp that had come with the washer was difficult to manipulate. I had to replace it with a band hose clamp.

By the way, the hole in the hose had been caused by rubbing the hose against the drain pipe from the motor to the sink.

Unplug the washing machine. There are electrical components that can injure or kill you. Using a screw driver inserted just below the lid of the washer in the front, there are two (2) spring clips that you push on to release. Then the front of the washer tilts down and you remove it and set aside.
On the bottom right you will see the flexible, convoluted rubber hose connecting from the pump to the washer tub. Two (2) clamps hold the hose on. Remove the two clamps, install the new hose and re-install the clamps. Re-install the front panel and push into place, allowing clips to lock into the front panel.

With screwdriver, I removed screws holding old hose in place. Attached new hose and screwed into place.

After doing some troubleshooting, I found that the Air Bell was stripped inside.

First I removed the agitator by firmly pulling it straight up. Then I removed the bolt holding the air bell (agitator coupling) with a ratchet. Then came the hard part. The air bell (agitator coupling) was stuck on the shaft and would not come off. I used rope to lasso under the coupling and tied it to a 2x4 for leverage and eventually wrestled it off by using an upward jolting motion time and time again. Spraying WD-40 in the coupling seemed to help loosen it up.

Prior to installation, I cleaned the grooves of the shaft by scraping them out with a flat tip screw driver. Installed the new coupling by tapping it down with a hammer until it was seated firmly and locked it down with the new bolt. Aligned the agitator and slid it down until it latched. Done!

I removed the agitator by simply pulling up. I then removed one bolt to get the agitator coupler off. I installed the new coupler, replaced the bolt and slid the agitator back down.