WU704 Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

First, I had to remove the outer face panel of the door. Four screws on the inside of the door hold the large panel onto the front. Removing these screws and the panel revealed the detergent cup assembly. There is no need to disconnect the power as long as the door latch is in the open position for this repair. I removed the two wires, blue and white from the leads, keeping note which was attached to which lead. I used a hex head screw driver to remove the 6 screws that hold the detergent cup in place. After removing the detergent cup and gasket, I cleaned the surfaces with a scouring pad to make sure the new gasket would have a good seal. I installed the new detergent cup with the 6 hex screws and re-attached the leads. I replaced the face panel with the four interior screws after running a couple cycles to be sure the problem was fixed, which it was.

Typically when the detergent is not being despensed during the wash cycle, the bi-metal switch is bad (they don't tend to last forever). I took the 4 lower screws out from the inside of the dishwasher door,, unscrewed the bi-metal switch, and screwed in the new switch. I also decided to replace the metal spring for the dish as well, which took the majority of the time. Once you get the idea of how that spring is wound in there, the install goes pretty quickly.

remove 3 screws from either side door edge trim : Note ! panel "notches" are up : remove both original panals plus the cardboard spacer : swap only the old color with the new one and reinstall spacer cardboard and be sure it stays centered : remember panel notches are up : carfully slide the panels over the spacer cardboard while keeping the cardboard centered : becareful panel edges can scratch in the door trim : Note! opposite side door trim can be removed if needed .

Looked into the problem, cleaned the sprayers out to no avail. Looked at drawings of dishwasher and noticed it had a filter. That seemed to be the next easiest thing to check. Removed the lower spray arm with channel locks, then removed the filter housing by removing 6 screw, removed old filter, replaced with new and reversed the above steps for re-assembly.

Piece of cake!

It was either the timer assembly of the Dispenser cup assembly. After looking at the dispenser critically< it appeared that the cam was quite worn. The replacement was accomplished by removing the bottom part of the door (4 screws) and then removing the dispenser cup (8 hex-head screws). If you keep the starter lever to "off" there is not power to the timer and you do not need to disconnect power

Removed four screws that hold front panel. Disconnected two wires, removed six screws, cleaned of old gasket material. Installed new gasket and soap dispenser with six screws. replaced two wires. replace front panel.

Seemed like I was getting more food stuck on my dishes than cleaned off. Because I've had this problem before, I already knew how to remove the lower spray arm and take off the large white housing beneath the spray arm with a special nut driver (shaped like a star) to get at the parts inside. The white plastic filter that circles the lower sprayer center was totally clogged and bent out of shape and was preventing the spray arm from turning. The microfilters built into the large white housing part that I removed using the special driver were also clogged from years of use. I cleaned the microfilters by agitation in water with lots of vinegar, poked the calcium deposits out of the holes that were clogged in the lower spray arm, and put the whole thing back together with the new plastic filter I bought from this site. Works like new again.

found the parts ordered them an poof dishwasher us as good as new

Followed instructions, those were OK.
Dishwasher front still leaking

I ordered two springs (PartSelect Number PS2202520), one for each side of my 30 year old Maytag WU704. This is the shorter "assist spring" that sits right behind the slightly longer green-ish spring, of which there are also one on each side. Now, with 2 springs on each side, the door swings like a new unit. I did NOT have to pull the dishwasher out of the cabinet at all. All I had to do was remove the base plate and there are gaps under the dishwasher frame that you can fish the spring with plastic grommet through, to insert the grommet into the appropriate hole on the door lever arm. Then with a pair of long needle-nose pliers I was able to reach from under the outside of the unit to grab the hanging spring hook and pull it down to insert it into the appropriate hole in the frame. I had a series, or line, of holes to choose from for this. I found that the hole closest to where the green-ish spring attaches made the door tighter and hold faster, the hole furthest made the door feel looser. You can do with one spring but I figure two would probably assist each other in lifting and last longer. Easy fix you can do! It would be an even easier fix if you need to replace the two other green-ish springs (PartSelect Number PS2097003), because they are right at the front of the unit. Open the bottom of the unit and check to see which is broken, so you are sure to order the correct spring(s) because they are different!

Had service man: stated I would need new motor/pump at $400 complete. I didn't like the interior of new dishwashers. Nothing to lose, so I verified that the motor was working; reviewed short PartSelect video. Ref: very helpful PartSelect assembly diagrams with parts list. THANKS PS! Removed two dish racks (top rack: extend fully and flip the roller-keeper clips. Pull rollers and rack-pins apart) Then I started taking the pump apart all the way down to the pump base (fits into tub with seal - did not replace that seal). Very intuitive - some parts are tight and must be encouraged to come apart; take care of seals and o-rings; take notes of sequence if necessary. Look for parts requiring replacement. Unscrew Spray Tower Lower Extension Nozzle and lift off Spray Arm and two lower spray arm seals - check seals for wear. Unscrew pencil-like Spray Arm Support Nut. Cause: I found a totally-clogged Pump Housing Filter, a bit of steel wool about the size of my thumb (same size as water supply opening in bottom), and small piece of broken glass. Cleaned all parts coated with lime; new Pump Housing Filter (could not clean adequately). Cleaned the screens underside of filter support (difficult) with brush and wire. Replaced o-rings for Wash Impeller and Drain Impeller as a matter of principle. Only alignment requirement is with bottom water supplly hole. Everything works like new now! Recommendation: clean Pump Housing Filter annually.

My daughter and son removed the old gasket and installed the new one. It went well.

Shut off the hot water supply (pretty sharp eh?). Disconnected the hose from the hw supply and the at the connection to the washing machine. These had not been touched in at least 15 years and were somewhat tough to loosen but finally came ..... accessibility was a problem for the connection to the water supply as it was in a recessed wall box. Fortunately, we had some washers for the hose connections so the install was a snap. Hardest part of the whole job was moving the washing machine out from between the drier and the wash tub .... tight fit. Thanks for the quick service and to FED EX for their delivery. The delivery fellow was a real gentleman.

Called you on Saturday excellent operator placed order even with my card 1st refusing to do transaction. Received pump seal Monday (yes) and All the parts 3 days. Sears (only)the rubber seal! Used one nut driver, labor 1 hr. Thanks to everyone and the phone operator.. My wife is very pleased @ 3 days even over weekend delivery (and) price was less than sears. We shall shop your website again

Removed lower spray arm and installed new seal under spray arm.Did not fix problem,I am guessing a low spray pressure.Everything checks out O.K.Anyone have some suggestions.How does the rinse aid get out of the holding tankr?