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dishwasher leaks from left side of door
The old gasket came out easily, but had calcium deposits in area. I cleaned the area with vinegar and water and waited until it was completely dry. The new gasket went in very easily and looked great. I started the dishwasher and alas, it still leaks, so the problem was apparently not with the gasket, but some other area. But the gasket is nice and new. Any suggestions on next step0 in troubleshooting?
first i picked out the old seal, use a screwdriver to get it started. Then I pushed the new one in after cleaning the seal channel. I fixed it during a commercial while watching my favorite tv show.
I removed the inner nut holding the spray arm onto the pump. Turned the washer on it's back and removed the wire clip holding rear of the pump motor. Completely removed the pump housingand motor from the washer. Removed three(3) long screws holding the motor to the pump housing. Removed the dish from the housing and removed the old impeller and seals . Cleaned the pump housing of calcium with lime-a-way. Reinstalled all new parts in reverse order as they order taken off. Cleaned inside of dishwasher with lime-a-away and general purpose cleaner. Reinstall pump housing and motor on washer in reverse order as they were taking off. Reinstalled washer into cabinet and connected all hoses, drain lines and electrical wired. Turned washer on and watched it run throught a complete cycle. Worked just fine and no leaks. Parts were great.
First, I removed the 4 screws & Toe plate assembly below the door, exposing the undercarriage. The springs for both the right and left side are visible. Secondly, to help gain access to the springs (and for ease in reattaching the new sping to the appropriate tension bracket), I opened the dishwasher door and unscrewed the two small screws (located above the door) that secure the counter-top attach brackets to the underside of the counter. This would normally allow you the opportunity to simply pull the diswasher out a few inches from the counter for easy access. In my case, the lip of the counter did not allow me to pull the diswasher out very far, but I was able to angle it just enough to make access easier. Thirdly, I referred to the diagram that accompanied my replacement spring to make sure that I had the spring positioned properly. There appeared to be a slight difference between tension bracket spring angle for attaching the spring to the door vs side bracket. Fourth, I attached the vinly piece provided to the top spring connection and simply pulled down on the spring to create enough tension to attach the spring to the lower side bracket. Finally, test the door to make sure you have the proper resistance. Push the diswasher back into it's original position, realigning the top bracket holes and reattach the screws that secure the counter top attach brackets. Put away your tools, pack your patience and you are done. It's easy!
Getting the new belt installed is a bit tricky; it seems too small to span the pump and drive pulleys.
Nevertheless, start with the belt positioned in the drive pulley and stretch it so one side fits into the slot of the pump pulley. Using both hands, crank the pulley over until the belt "rolls" into place. It may take several tries as the workspace tends to be rather tight. Good luck.
Removed bottom front panel with nutdriver,rolled old belt off rolled new belt on and applied belt grease that came with new belt.New belt came with instructions that were exactly right for belt installation. Thank You Danny Hammons
Removed the old gasket. It was easy to "pop out" the parts that held the gasket in place with a regular flat blade screwdriver. Becareful not to chip the porclien (sp). Any of the tabs that broke off I just pushed them through and can take them out if I ever need to remove the front of the door. Works fine and no leaks. Clean the area of the old gasket so the new gasket will have a good seal. End of story.
cleaned lime and calcium build up off of gasket and it stopped the leak . yea . parts select was very helpful and said i could return the unused gasket. . this is a good place to get parts.thanks larry
i took off the kick plate and found the water valve. its the piece that water comes to from under the sink to connect to the dishwaser. it has a plug with 2 wires. i turned off the water supply, disconnected the wires(probably should have flipped the breaker but didnt) took out the 5/16 mounting screws, had to use a little end wrench on 1 because it was behind the water line and a nut driver on the other. i put some thread gook on the connection and put the new one in the way it was and it works great. i am writing this because thats where i got the info to diagnose in the first place and saved me $$$!
Controller board display showed error F for both dryers on running mode but it wouldn't accept any command; went into the set up and here display showed F5. C
The difficult part was to find what component was bad. Maytag does not sell the manual for this machine any more. We could not figure out what the problem was until we decided to check the voltage on the board and compare it to a second machine that we have. The second machine showed different readings so we decided to compare voltages on the transformer (main) that is at the bottom of the machine. There is a Primary (110 volts) and two secondaries; one which output is about 26 VAC and the other is above 10 VAC. The bad transformer had no output in one of the secondaries. Replacing the transformer was pretty simple. Make sure to disconnect the machine please before doing the repair.
Removed the lower Front panel, removed the (2) hoses from the Pump Assembly, Removed the Plastic Sprayer Recirculating Tube, than removed the (6) screws that hold the pump assembly in the washer basin, removed the assembly from the unit. Disassembled the pump unit (6) screws, removed and replaced the (2) water impellers and bottom seal, reassembled everything and all is well. This machine is 22 years old and my local parts supplier said that parts were no longer available for it because of its age, well I have news for him PartSelect.com has any part I need!
All I had to do was take apart the door by removing a few screws. Then ripped the old gasket off. I then lined all the tabs up to make sure it was going to fit and then started pulling them through with needle nose pliers. When the door was reassembled I checked the plastic piece where the gasket ends in the tub and found some loose screws that needed to be tightened. After that I ran a few cycles and it does not leak any more.
Easy to change. Just pull firmly on old gasket, clean surface with soapy water. Align tabs on new gasket, push into place a tap firmly with handle of a screwdriver and taps pop into place. Was done in about 40 minutes.
