WRTS23V7MW2 Frigidaire Refrigerator - Instructions

No instructions included, so it took a little bit of staring at the new part to figure out how it works. The barbed ridge on the gasket fits into a slot on the door. The flat face of the gasket has an internal magnetic strip that helps keep the seal tight against the steel face of the refrigerator. Installation requires no tools. This is the basic process:
1) Unbox the new gasket and get it ready to install so you don't have to leave the fridge open too long.
2) Open the door and grab the old gasket at one of the corners and pull away. This will unseat the barbed ridge I mentioned above. Work your way around the door until the whole gasket is free.
3) Set aside the old gasket
4) Grab a moistened paper towel and wipe down the (now exposed) sealing surface of the fridge and door.
5) Align the new gasket in the door and start pushing the barb into place. I found that the new gasket seemed slightly oversize compared to the original, so it took a little tweaking. What worked for me was to get all the corners seated, then work my way around the door making sure the gasket is fully seated.
6) Once you have the new gasket installed, close the door to make sure everything fits OK.
7) Open the door again and run your finger along the inside edge of the gasket seal. What you want to do is fold the edge of the gasket down so it lays flat against the outer wall of the door.
8) Shut the door and look from the sides and top to try to spot any gaps. You should be able to poke the gasket from the side and get the magnet strips to click into place. It seems like after a day or so the gasket 'relaxed' and I didn't have to worry about this anymore.
9) Dispose of the old gasket. I was able to pull the gasket into four pieces (separating at the corners) so it would fit in my city trash can...

This was the second part I tried. The defrost timer was first, but that did not fix it. To do this I had to remove the ice maker and the back plate of the freezer. Then I defrosted the coil and cut the wires. stripped them back and installed the new thermostat. re-assembled and tested. has been working great ever since.

I unplugged the refrigerator, then opened the door and removed four screws holding the plastic electrical panel to the interior top of the main refrigerator compartment and noticed the cold control was corroded badly, apparently from moisture in the panel. I ordered a new one from partselect.com. When it arrived the next day, I then pulled off the control knob, unclipped the cold control, unplugged the three wires to the control, then removed the styrofoam insulation blocks holding the thermocouple wire and then removed the thermocouple wire to complete the removal. I then reversed the process to install the new thermostat and control. That is repositioned the thermocouple wire, put the insulation blocks back to hold the wire, then replugged the three electrical wires, clipped the control back and pushed the control knob back on and finally screwed the panel back to the top of the main compartment and plugged the refrigerator electrical cord back in to provide current to the refrigerator. It immediately started up and ran fine. Total time - about 8 minutes.

When cleaning the coils on your refrigerator always remember rule number 1, unplug it first. I was cleaning the coils and hit the fan blade while it was moving with a brush, thus breaking off one of the fan blades. I ordered a new fan and installed it in about 15 minutes. Very easy repair.

I removed the drawer from the support rails and placed it aside. I then removed the entire shelf that the rails were attached to. Each rail contained one (1) screw. I removed the screw, slid the support rails back approximately a 1/4 inch and they popped out. I replaced with the new rails, sliding them into place in reverse of how I removed the damaged ones & attached with the screw. I cleaned the shelf off and placed it back in the refrigerator, and placed the meat drawer onto the new rails. It actually took longer to clean the shelf than perform the repair.

I simply snapped in the new part. It took a few seconds. I would like to say that I found the part using the model number of the fridge. When I went to look at the description it said the part was 26 inches. The one I had was only 24 3/4 inches. I called you guys and was told that this was the correct part and to ignore the measuement.
You were Right! the part fitted perfectly.

The repair was super easy. There are no retainer screws to deal with. You just pull the old gasket off of the door and press the new gasket on. I used a large flathead screwdriver to help start the removal by prying the first corner out of the groove. Once you get it started, the rest comes out easy. To put the new gasket on, you just firmly press it into the groove on the door.
I've read other instructions that say to soak the new gasket in warm water before installation. I didn't do this. Instead, I just used a hair dryer to heat the gasket once it was on the door. Then I closed the door and ran a finger between the fold in the gasket to make sure there was a good seal between the fridge and the door. Don't open the door for an hour so the gasket will form to the shape of the fridge opening. That's it. It works great now. Problem solved.

Useing 2 fingers pulled old one out from its seat grove in door and started at one corner pressing the new one in groved slot the old one came out from. Auctually took less than 5 minutes

Really, really, really easy:
1.Unplug refrigerator (electrical safety).
2.Remove cardboard cover at bottom of refrigerator (two short self-tapping bolts) with a wrench.
3.Pull old fan blade off fan motor shaft (just held on by a compression fitting--no tools needed).
4.Push new fan blade on shaft.
5. Replace cardboard cover.
6. Plug in refrigerator, write nasty letter to Frigidaire.

The repair was very, very easy. The old Gasket was easily removed by pulling at (1) of the (4) corners and simply pull from slot around the full perimeter of the door. No tools of any kind are needed. Replacement of the new Gasket was simply to again start at (1) corner by pushing new gasket into the perimeter slot and using fingers push into the door grove all the way around. This install took no more than 10-15 minutes max.

Replaced the old bins with the new bins...The most important part of the story was finding this website and locating and ordering the necessary components...that was amazing - a few clicks of the mouse and my new parts were on their way.

At first I tried to insall the new gasket with the door still attached to the refrigerator. It was difficult to assure that the bottom of the gasket was properly installed at the bottom. As a result I removed the door from the refrigerator, finished installing the gasket and then put the door back on the refrigerator

Test the light socket first with a bulb that you know is good. If the light still does not come on, unplug the refrigerator, remove the switch by inserting a very small, thin, flathead screwdriver alongside it and pull the switch out slowly with your other hand. There are two wires there. Remove them gently with some needle nose pliers. If you want to test to see if the switch is defective, take a insulated jumper wire, and attach it between the two wires. Plug the refrigerator back in and see if the light comes on. If the light does come on, replace with a new switch by re-attaching the wires and placing it back in the hole firmly.

- Unsnapped old light socket from top of Frig
- Disconnected elect wires
- Reconnected elect wires to new light socket
- Snapped new socket in place
- Done in less than 2 min.

first i removed the four screws that hold the shelve in place disconnected the wire replace both diffuser-air,reconnected the wire and replaced the screws